James2

James2

Member
We had our 110 CSW inspected last week and got a back a list of issues to be addressed. None of them dire (thank goodness) and most run of the mill defender maintenance (so I am assured). I bought the defender so that I could learn to do basic to middle maintenance myself. I'm not a professional mechanic, but I'm not stupid and can usually work it out eventually. So I am looking at the list and trying to decide what to do and what to leave them to do. The estimate for everything came to £400, but because it's largely bushes that's almost entirely labour, so that buys a few specialist tools if I need them (I have a reasonable toolkit already). The only thing is that this is our only vehicle, so when I start to take it apart in the morning I need it back together again that day!

Here is the list:

N/S draglink ball joint has play *
Steering damper eyes bush is worn *
O/S & N/S shock absorber bushes, excess play *
Front propshaft universal joint (gearbox end) has play
All four wheel bearings have play **
Rear Axle "A" Frame ball joint gaiter split *
Exhaust centre silencer cracked and blowing *

** = Yes, I've found a good youtube video so I'll give that a go!
* = Thinking about it, maybe. Need to find good instructions.
= Hmm... think I'll give that a miss!

Thoughts, suggestions, experience and links to instructions/videos very, very welcome!

Thanks in advance,

James
 
That all sounds like usual landy repairs tbh, £400 buys all the bits, more tools, a few taxis if you get in too deep one evening, and a bit of change. For your A frame, you may be better just to buy a complete new assembly rather than just a ball joint as they're a bitch to separate. You could also buy a new draglink with ends slready fitted to save time.
 
You don't have to plan to do the whole lot in a day. When I was a tender youth of about 22 it took me all afternoon to do a couple of wheel bearings on our old Series. So I know how you feel. Nowadays I just bash the old ones out and new ones in more or less before breakfast. I'd certainly agree that it's probably better to get the rear ball joint kit that includes the bracket. I tried to press my old one out of its bracket and the dial on the press said 25 tons before I gave up because it was bending the frame of my press. Some of these jobs are shown in Buster's guides, which are a bit more colourful and have better illustrations than the Haynes manual.
 
Are the shock absorbers front or rear? If it's the fronts then personally I'd budget for complete replacement ones including turret rings as the bolts on them usually seize and you'll end up cutting them off especially if time is a factor.
I'd start with the uj's on the front prop shaft and again personally I'd replace both, I usually cut the old ones off with an angle grinder as I find it a lot quicker than trying to push them out
 
I suppose I could fit something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rove...ck-Rod-Drag-Link-Set-Heavy-Duty-/271635762073
That would obviously solve the Draglink and the steering damper bushes issue, but is a lot more expensive. Is it much of an upgrade for the vehicle? I don't do much off roading (bumpy tracks aside), it's more of a everyday vehicle, carry loads etc, with occasional towing. I guess a step back from that is to fit something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Track-Rod...er-OEM-Defender-ALL-Models-TRK3-/111871962949
 
Look at
Paddock/craddock/LRDirect. You can get the rods etc that aren't heavy duty, just standard. Save a few beer tokens.
 
Really you have nothing to do thats difficult
You need a joint separator...
Get one that has a bolt for the separation and you'll be fine...
Don't tackle more than one job at a time
Start early so time is on your side
Ensure you've got the correct replacement part beforehand
Good luck you will be fine
 
Where are you in Suffolk? I've got some new shock bushes you can have......................
 
Hi,

Sorry for the slow reply, I've been away for a bit.

I'm on the coast Waldamar and thanks for the offer. I am thinking of replacing the shocks at the same time, not too sure yet.

Draglink wise, I am going to try and not replace the actual link, just the end. Looks like I have two options. Greaseable: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Track-Rod...577060?hash=item1ea9d8cea4:g:nwIAAOSw8d9Uw2Rm or Lemforder (which look non-Greaseable, but better quality?): https://www.adventure4x4direct.com/...ink-End-Ball-Joint-Kit-Defender-Lemforder-OEM

Any idea which would be best? I was thinking of getting the steering link ones too, as it seems cheaper that way and I am sure they will need replacing eventually.

James
 
with bolts/nuts nowadays, if they are accessible i just cut them off, or shock gun them off and replace.
I used to diligently soak bolts on oil and clean them up and re-use.

Sod that nowadays, far quicker and easier to just replace, costs a bit more but makes everything easier to torque up and get back undone again

All home mechanic drive way repairs there
 
go with lemforder - it's oem - it'll last for ages.

I notice that changing the UJ on the propshaft was in your "maybe" pile... I'm almost certain that there's a busters guide for this. It's pretty simple, you just have to take care when it comes to the needle bearings wanting to fall out. If you can do the wheel bearings, you'll easily manage a UJ.

I 3rd the idea of replacing the whole assembly for the A-frame ball joint. 2 hours of hammering and a 10 tonne press did naff all to my old ball joint!
 
again, GKN.... stick with OEM for anything that has a bearing surface.

in other cases, I've been assuming that bearmach is better than britpart & allmakes, but sometimes only slightly.
 
I cannot find OEM bushes for the steering dampers or shock absorbers, only aftermarket (usually britpart). I am putting together an order with Adventure 4X4 as they can supply the A Frame Fulcrum Bracket with a Lemforder ball joint (most have a britpart one on them).
 
often i find i have to use a couple of different suppliers to get everything i want in the brand i want.
Try LRDirect - you have to order by part number but they give you the option of selecting manufacturer etc
 
yep - lrdirect if you really want to know what you're buying - or paddocks but make sure the code ends in G for genuine.

I use famousfour a lot too, they tend to stock the best/best-cheapest option for most things, so you'll generally find it's either OEM or bearmach... their wheel bearing kits for example come with timken bearings (OEM).
 
As I recall, the pins on the end of my shock absorbers were 12 mm metric threads, rather than imperial. But different manufacturers may vary. Yes, it's just a bog standard nylock nut in most cases. Nuts are generally supposed to be made out of something a bit tougher than mild steel anyway, so you should be OK.
 
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