CharlieCroker

CharlieCroker

Member
Hi Muddy Peeps
My newly acquired S2A has had a Land cruiser 3 litre engine fitted 'professionally' when it was used by the council. But actually they made a right mess of it, including moving the radiator panel forward (no idea why as there is a HUGE gap behind it) and wires hanging everywhere unsecured in a loom!. It has ruined the look of the vehicle and I have bought a S2 panel to go in there and move it BACK to its original position. At the same time I want to fit something 'Land Rover' i.e. (200TDi/ 300TDi/ TD5). I am wondering which one will fit in the original space left by the 2 1/4 petrol the previous owners replaced?

As you can see the original 'infill' panel has been bolted to the TOP of the rad!

INFILL.jpg


No idea WHY they moved the rad bulkhead forward? For WHAT? It has shoved the front forwrd looking like a Defender :(
E4.jpg

I am an aircraft engineer and frankly this wiring makes me shudder!

E3.jpg
Looking towards the rad panel, that air filter is getting moved to fit a snorkel!
E1.jpg


If this is in a wrong area or I am bumping a thread about different engines can one of the mods please boot me over there? :) I'm new here and still learning the forum layout.
Thank you I look forward to your suggestions.
 
I'd stick a 2 1/4 petrol back in if that's what it had originally. Tdi's are meant to be deafening in a series and the petrol sounds lovely when it's running right.

It's a proper ham fisted feck up of a job they've done ain't it mate!
 
Does it run? If so I would leave that engine in for now, it looks like there's plenty to sort out. At least you can drive it while you sort the brakes and wiring. Its not a bad engine and before you go changeing you need to take a close look at the transmission to see how its been fitted in case they modded that to. I'm assuming it has the S2A transmission not the Land Cruiser (am I right in thinking they are the other way around?)
It has no servo and badly needs an underbonnet rewire. It also looks like you could fit the panel where it should be with the current engine. What year is it? If its close to "historic" then I would wait and get a 2 1/4 petrol when one comes along and go for tax exemption. Low Emision Zones (LEZ) are coming in thick and fast and so far "historics" are exempt. Could become important you live near any of the cities with a LEZ:
https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/emissions/low-emission-zones-what-you-need-to-know/
 
Just looked up your engine, it looks like a "B" engine - 83 hp and claimed to be very long lasting and economic. Looks an ideal engine, doubt you will get anything much better.
If its is a "B" series engine they date from 1974 to 1980 which makes it "in-period" for tax exemption (available pre 1974). Keep that in mind as it could turn out to be imporant. It would allow you to run a 3 ltr diesel and potentially not loose any DVLA points. If you can date the engine change to 30 years ago - ie before 1989, them it will not affect MOT exemption. This would make the best options either keeping the Toyota engine or getting an orignal 2 1/4.
 
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I agree with rob 1 miles, keep the Toyota engine if it is in good order and just make the other changes such as the wiring and relocation of the front panal. If you are determined to put a period landy engine in, go for the 2.25 petrol. But be aware they do like to drink to drink the fuel.

Col
 
Many thanks for your replies chaps, copious amounts of ale will be bought at the first meeting I attend, no driving will be allowed only serious quaffing of the fruit of the hop!
The car is already an ‘Historic Vehicle’ so I am good there, the donk starts lovely even in frost, smokes like the Flying Scotsman, then clears after a few minutes. The idle speed is way to high so need to see to that plus a good service and a check of the sump for filings etc. But the vehicle is only 60,000 miles from new and the engine was apparently from a Toyota with similar miles! It pull like a train so I will take your advice and leave it there. I must get the wiring loomed ASAP to prevent problems or fires! So that will probably be put into copex or similar. Might remove the complete loom and wrap it in the correct tape, including extra wiring for heated windscreens which I have heard is a good mod. Huffing on the windscreen used to be generally more powerful than the ‘standard blower’ in winter.

Yes Smithy they made a right mess fitting the engine. It has a different bell housing otherwise its standard LR from the bell-housing backwards. Fitted with Fairey OD. In the forces we would change a engine and gearbox complete, with a rope and 4 sweating blokes out in the field, with an adjustable and a crowbar in the rain and it still looked better than that! The Toyota looks like it was fitted with pliers and lolly sticks, by an elite team of underpant gnomes.
 
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Mine had a few lolly sticks wedged between the near side inner wing and the splash guard to stop it all rattling, until I got a new footwell welded in. I'd have to adjust them every 50 miles or so to stop em dropping out. I miss those little tweaks.

Col
 
I think the passengers in mine had to wear wellies I dont even HAVE a footwell on the nearside, the guy I bought it from said ‘oh it does have EXTRA air vents in the footwells’ and laughed When I got it home I saw why . I,m welding loads of new steel in , so no worries. That engine is SO noisy though so its ear defenders when driving! I need to fit some under bonnet sound blankets. Now I know WHY they are called ‘Defenders’ . In the back I think it got a bit wet too as most of the ally floor is gone.
 
CharlieCroker said:
including moving the radiator panel forward (no idea why as there is a HUGE gap behind it)
Click to expand...

The engine must have clashed with the battery holder and air cleaner, so battery gone and air cleaner shunted forward , when you get a chance can you post some pics of rear tub floor and supports
I’m looking forward to see your progress on this
 
I wonjder if there was a change of plan? It looks like that engine would be fine with the rad / panel in the right place and an electric fan infront of the rad. Easiest way to sort the brakes is to get S3 brake pedestal and dual circut master cylinder. It will cost what you've saved on the engine.....but its a decent upgrade and it works.
http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/dual_brake_conv.htm
As yours is already "historic" I would definately leave the engine in, let sleeping dogs lie..
You could put an after market aircleaner on to get that space back.
 
Much as I like my 4203 I'd say the Toyota is a better match. It is the engine that cost Land Rover a huge chunk of the Aussi market in the 70's.
4203s are still making good money, I think there are still a lot in service, I got a full rebuilt kit (pistons, liners, shells, gaskets) for £220 delivered last year. Made in Turkey!
 
The one I fitted to my S3 I think looks the part and best of all it has a landrover badge on it...its an easy conversion.
A 200di...came out of a S1 disco and originally had a turbo...but that not needed on a S2 or S3 and its kinder to the gearbox so I took it off and sold it..

On a run it nearly hits 40mpg and pulls like a train even with the 3.5 diffs I fitted so no need for an overdrive.
 
Thanks for the replies folks. In the past I was a 'Rover Man' owning no less than 7 Rover V8's and the last one I scrapped but kept the engine. I made a transport case for it on castors as we had to move house, sadly the ex made me sell it (thats why shes the EX!) as it was sat around for years! It went into a Cobra replica, so its still going - wishing now I still had it - as thats a straight drop in with standard parts but too juicy :(
 
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