Pappasmurf said:
Heres a tip. Learn to do as much as possible yourself. It will save you a very large fortune in garage labour fees.
Click to expand...
I do plan to get stuck in myself but at the moment it's parked somewhere else until I sort out space after selling my other car, then I will start tinkering with it and getting my hands dirty. At the moment I'd like just to get the main bits done so I can use it daily.... May be a while by the looks of things
 
Nerocuba said:
I do plan to get stuck in myself but at the moment it's parked somewhere else until I sort out space after selling my other car, then I will start tinkering with it and getting my hands dirty. At the moment I'd like just to get the main bits done so I can use it daily.... May be a while by the looks of things
Click to expand...
Good plan
 
Nerocuba said:
I'm having the shocks and springs done next weekend as I want the 2 inch lift taken off and putting back to standard, so I'll ask the chap to have a look at the track rod and steering issue just hope it is that and nothing more sinister.
Click to expand...
If you are worried about it becoming a money pit the track rod is a very easy job to tackle yourself and parts are cheap. You need a track rod, a RH end and a LH end (link). I personally use the cheap TRE's because they come with grease nipples rather than the OEM ones which are sealed for life.The only tools required are a tape measure, pliers, 13mm + 19mm spanner and a ball joint splitter (link). I do not know you level of mecahincal skills but if it is zero this is about as simple as you can get to start learning. If you already know your way around the tool box you should be able to do it with your eyes closed.
To remove:
remove the bracket on the axle (13mm from memory)
Remove the split pin through the castellated nut
Loosen the nut (19mm from memory) but leave it on the end of the thread, do not remove it
Use ball joint splitter to split the joint
fully remove the nut
repeat for the other side
Carefully measure the length of the old track rod assembly and build up you new one to be the same length with an equal amount of adjustment at each end (do not screw on end in full and have the other one out to get the correct length)
In true Haynes fashion, refitting is the reverse of removal
The go to the garage to get the tracking done. Only allow them to adjust the rear track rod as that is all you have changed!

slightly different as it is refitting HD rods (I prefer standard as they are then the failure point) but give you an idea of the job: link

Edit: And clamps, DO NOT forget new the tre clamps (ask me how I know that :rolleyes:)
 
Last edited:
Scooby22 said:
The track rod may line up better once you revert back to normal springs and shocks, it looks like it may be just catching the back of the bracket and may not be bent. Was the prop shaft changed as part of the lift.
Click to expand...
I really hope not because that sounds like it is going to mean I'll need a new one of those too lol. I have no idea at all, so will have to suck it and see next weekend when it's up on the ramp... Not looking forward to that, because I have no doubt that there will be loads of air been sucked through the mechanic's teeth before giving me more bad news.
 
Nerocuba said:
I really hope not because that sounds like it is going to mean I'll need a new one of those too lol. I have no idea at all, so will have to suck it and see next weekend when it's up on the ramp... Not looking forward to that, because I have no doubt that there will be loads of air been sucked through the mechanic's teeth before giving me more bad news.
Click to expand...
For a 2 inch lift you should not need to change any of the other components, that doesn't mean they haven't, but it is small enough you do not needs cranked arms and elongated props. You will hopefully be fine.
 
Nerocuba said:
I really hope not because that sounds like it is going to mean I'll need a new one of those too lol. I have no idea at all, so will have to suck it and see next weekend when it's up on the ramp... Not looking forward to that, because I have no doubt that there will be loads of air been sucked through the mechanic's teeth before giving me more bad news.
Click to expand...
Are you taking it to a Land Rover specialist, or just a spanner monkey garage. Spanner monkeys will always charge more, and also might not know what they're looking at. They're fine on a 2010 Astra but a 30 year old Defender, that is essentially a 40 year old design, they tend to get confused. One mechanic I went to, in an emergency, asked me were my ECU was, it's a 200tdi, it doesnt have one. I called the RAC and got myself towed home rather than have that idiot touch it.
 
dag019 said:
If you are worried about it becoming a money pit the track rod is a very easy job to tackle yourself and parts are cheap. You need a track rod, a RH end and a LH end (link). I personally use the cheap TRE's because they come with grease nipples rather than the OEM ones which are sealed for life.The only tools required are a tape measure, pliers, 13mm + 19mm spanner and a ball joint splitter (link). I do not know you level of mecahincal skills but if it is zero this is about as simple as you can get to start learning. If you already know your way around the tool box you should be able to do it with your eyes closed.
To remove:
remove the bracket on the axle (13mm from memory)
Remove the split pin through the castellated nut
Loosen the nut (19mm from memory) but leave it on the end of the thread, do not remove it
Use ball joint splitter to split the joint
fully remove the nut
repeat for the other side
Carefully measure the length of the old track rod assembly and build up you new one to be the same length with an equal amount of adjustment at each end (do not screw on end in full and have the other one out to get the correct length)
In true Haynes fashion, refitting is the reverse of removal
The go to the garage to get the tracking done. Only allow them to adjust the rear track rod as that is all you have changed!

slightly different as it is refitting HD rods (I prefer standard as they are then the failure point) but give you an idea of the job: link
Click to expand...
Thank you ever so much, Dag, that is very kind of you. I don't have that much knowledge but enough to replace my brakes on my other, so not completely useless. I will give that a go, it sounds like something that shouldn't be too much of an issue.... Famous last word
 
Pappasmurf said:
Are you taking it to a Land Rover specialist, or just a spanner monkey garage. Spanner monkeys will always charge more, and also might not know what they're looking at. They're fine on a 2010 Astra but a 30 year old Defender, that is essentially a 40 year old design, they tend to get confused. One mechanic I went to, in an emergency, asked me were my ECU was, it's a 200tdi, it doesnt have one. I called the RAC and got myself towed home rather than have that idiot touch it.
Click to expand...
Hahaha even I know that
I am taking it to a friend's garage who has a mechanic who used to have a 90 and apparently is excited to be working on mine. He is doing me Mates rates but there is a specialist not far from me too which I will use for other jobs. I always thought the specialist would be more expensive but I guess they just love working on them.
 
Nerocuba said:
Thank you ever so much, Dag, that is very kind of you. I don't have that much knowledge but enough to replace my brakes on my other, so not completely useless. I will give that a go, it sounds like something that shouldn't be too much of an issue.... Famous last word
Click to expand...
If you can replace brakes you can do this. Buy/borrow a ball joint splitter though otherwise the job becomes very difficult.
The write up I have given is very basic but is the full process. There is likely to be more vids on your tube. The one I linked was just the first one I found to give you an idea of what you are doing and shows both dragrod and track rod, you do not need to do both.
 
The tight points on your steering mat be the universal joints on the steering column, there are two in the engine bay, These can dry out and rust, they don't cost much to replace. You can test by spraying the joints with loads of WD40, this may free them up, but is only TEMPORARY and doesn't fix them.
Before you spend money on a rack rod, it could be worth temporarily removing the bracket on the diff to see if this stops the rattling. If this does turn out to be the problem I would check to see if it is a standard track rod, as if a thicker one has been fitted, that could be the issue.
This bracket isn't essential as it is not fitted to Discovery and Range Rovers that use the same axle. It is there because the rear track rod is vulnerable for being bent backwards when the axle grounds whilst off roading, the bracket is supposed to prevent this, but in practice the rod just bends around it.
Before you fit up-rated parts, it is worth considering that when you add strength in one area, it moves the weak link to a different and possibly more expensive part of the chain.
As far as smoke on start-up is concerned, the smoke may just be un-burnt fuel if it took a while to start. I used to have a perfectly healthy 2.5N/A that was a reluctant starter from cold, unless you used the heater plugs and that smoked like a good-un on initial start-up.
 
Nerocuba said:
Hahaha even I know that
I am taking it to a friend's garage who has a mechanic who used to have a 90 and apparently is excited to be working on mine. He is doing me Mates rates but there is a specialist not far from me too which I will use for other jobs. I always thought the specialist would be more expensive but I guess they just love working on them.
Click to expand...
Good good
 
dag019 said:
For a 2 inch lift you should not need to change any of the other components, that doesn't mean they haven't, but it is small enough you do not needs cranked arms and elongated props. You will hopefully be fine.
Click to expand...
Let's hold thumbs hey. I will let you guys know if you're interested of course but I'm sure you're fed up of newbees and their problems by now hahaha
 
Rougharse Racing said:
Before you fit up-rated parts, it is worth considering that when you add strength in one area, it moves the weak link to a different and possibly more expensive part of the chain.
Click to expand...

^^ this
This is why I said I prefer standard as the point of failure remains the bar bending rather than had bars not bending and something else failing instead! You can still drive with a bent bar/straighten it in a field enough to get you home. You break something else you are stuck!
 
Rougharse Racing said:
The tight points on your steering mat be the universal joints on the steering column, there are two in the engine bay, These can dry out and rust, they don't cost much to replace. You can test by spraying the joints with loads of WD40, this may free them up, but is only TEMPORARY and doesn't fix them.
Before you spend money on a rack rod, it could be worth temporarily removing the bracket on the diff to see if this stops the rattling. If this does turn out to be the problem I would check to see if it is a standard track rod, as if a thicker one has been fitted, that could be the issue.
This bracket isn't essential as it is not fitted to Discovery and Range Rovers that use the same axle. It is there because the rear track rod is vulnerable for being bent backwards when the axle grounds whilst off roading, the bracket is supposed to prevent this, but in practice the rod just bends around it.
Before you fit up-rated parts, it is worth considering that when you add strength in one area, it moves the weak link to a different and possibly more expensive part of the chain.
As far as smoke on start-up is concerned, the smoke may just be un-burnt fuel if it took a while to start. I used to have a perfectly healthy 2.5N/A that was a reluctant starter from cold, unless you used the heater plugs and that smoked like a good-un on initial start-up.
Click to expand...
Thanks rougharse, that all makes sense now that you put it like that. It never had the blue smoke before and I was quite surprised. It clear up after a while and I never saw any again but I will have to check again the next time I go down and start it up. The guy said I should put a bit of rubber on the bracket but I did wonder why I would have to even do that because it shouldn't be knocking against it in the first place. From looking at the track rod, it doesn't look obviously bent but I guess it could be slightly bend or maybe the bracket itself is slightly bent and that has been pushed up and causing it to touch the track rod...
 
dag019 said:
^^ this
This is why I said I prefer standard as the point of failure remains the bar bending rather than had bars not bending and something else failing instead! You can still drive with a bent bar/straighten it in a field enough to get you home. You break something else you are stuck!
Click to expand...
Yeah absolutely right
dag019 said:
If you can replace brakes you can do this. Buy/borrow a ball joint splitter though otherwise the job becomes very difficult.
The write up I have given is very basic but is the full process. There is likely to be more vids on your tube. The one I linked was just the first one I found to give you an idea of what you are doing and shows both dragrod and track rod, you do not need to do both.
Click to expand...
Brilliant Mate, thanks a million once again, I'd like to say that this will be the last time I ask a silly question but unfortunately this won't be the last time at all hahaha
 
Nerocuba, as above, the guys/girls on this forum often offer brilliant advice based on their years of Defender experience/knowledge. If you really want to get to know your Landy, do the work yourself...they're incredibly easy to work on, it's just big boys Meccano. A good set of rachet/sockets, [Halfords Advanced Pro Sets...buy new off eBay from Halfords and buy the previous models at half price], light weight 3tonne lift trolley jack and some 6tonne axles stands, pls any other groovy tools you'd like to buy for the man cave. You'll spend a little on new tools that you'll use for the rest of your life, but save a fortune on garage labour + and here's the big,big plus, you'll learn a lifelong skill set with skills that will help you in many other home work areas.
 
v8250 said:
Nerocuba, as above, the guys/girls on this forum often offer brilliant advice based on their years of Defender experience/knowledge. If you really want to get to know your Landy, do the work yourself...they're incredibly easy to work on, it's just big boys Meccano. A good set of rachet/sockets, [Halfords Advanced Pro Sets...buy new off eBay from Halfords and buy the previous models at half price], light weight 3tonne lift trolley jack and some 6tonne axles stands, pls any other groovy tools you'd like to buy for the man cave. You'll spend a little on new tools that you'll use for the rest of your life, but save a fortune on garage labour + and here's the big,big plus, you'll learn a lifelong skill set with skills that will help you in many other home work areas.
Click to expand...
Thanks V8, that is good advice and I think you're right. I do enjoy messing about with things like that but lack of the right tools and equipment.... And garage space, does make it easier to make the decision to take it to an overpriced garage. I think I am going to bite the bullet and get some decent tools and kit.
Thanks again
 
Scooby22 said:
The track rod may line up better once you revert back to normal springs and shocks, it looks like it may be just catching the back of the bracket and may not be bent. Was the prop shaft changed as part of the lift.
Click to expand...
Not sure about the prop shafts Scrooby, I am hoping it will solve it when it's back to normal height. What I won't do, which is what I normally do and that's go out and buy the parts before actually getting to the bottom of the problem. I will hopefully have good news once its been dropped next Saturday. I am getting a good deal on the changimg of all the shocks and springs and also complete wheel swap, including tyre fitting and balancing.... So it isn't worth doing any of it myself to be fair.
 
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