The last of my components came today so I put the floor, the mats and the seats back in. I've just tried it on the road (rather than just trundling up and down the yard) and all seems well. The gearchange is still a bit stiff but once again it's probably due to the box being very new and tight. Finding third gear is a bit of a fine art, but I think I've got the hang of it now, by holding the gear knob delicately between finger and thumb and pushing slightly to the right as well as forwards and it'll go in. Maybe I could refine it by tinkering with the various stops and springs, but it will do for now. So that all works well and I've not heard the whine of a loose gearbox on the overrun either, which is what this gearbox swap operation was all about. Success.
 
Thanks @discool
I don't recall a nut before the cable terminals and end nut.
Secure now and away from the body of the starter etc.
When the nut was loose it twisted round (up/clockwise) when the starter turned fouling the wiring.
Cheers for the reply in the other thread.
 
capo said:
Thanks @discool
I don't recall a nut before the cable terminals and end nut.
Secure now and away from the body of the starter etc.
When the nut was loose it twisted round (up/clockwise) when the starter turned fouling the wiring.
Cheers for the reply in the other thread.
Click to expand...
Something I found on Lucas starers in the past, there two nuts, iirc... both nuts are brass and one is just slightly slimmer than the other, I’ll refresh my brain tomorrow, i’ll I have look at another Lucas starter I have, that is for a Ford engine in the back of the my garage it looks similar to the one u have.
 
Just a quick update on the gearbox job. I put 300 miles on it over the weekend and all seems well so far. The last few weeks of my old one I'd been putting the clutch down as soon as my right foot came off the accelerator, because otherwise the overrun noise sounded like it was being tortured. I don't have to bother now - just using the clutch for changing gear is a habit that I'm having to re-learn. I'll run it for a while and then give it an early oil change. Clutch bite point is still low but it is fine. I had been concerned that it would get lower and lower as things bedded in and I would run out of adjustment, but that doesn't seem to be happening fortunately.
 
finished replacing rotten bonnet frame and put the spare wheel back where i like to se em
rusted frame.jpg
new frame.jpg
new frame.jpg
rusted frame.jpg
new frame.jpg
spare fitted.jpg
spare fitted.jpg
 
Yesterday:
Found out the little plastic shims on the door hinges do actually matter- and sections of old inner tube make good replacements.

Removed the high quality fence wire holding the exhaust in in place, and fit proper bolts so the MOT guy is happy

Swapped out the shiny new lights that don't meet spec, for the tatty old ones that do... another triumph for Britpart!

Though about fixing the speedo cable, and put it off to last, as I hate fishing about behind the instrument panel.

Replaced lots of bolts on the driveshaft to keep Mr MOT happy

Tried to get the steering box ball joint off. Stripped off the steering guard for access, and couldn't move it. So removed damper and tie rod, and cut the ball joint.. Tie rod now in the workshop, with half the ball joint still fixed in place.

Got the hex nut off the drop link, and now having fun getting the drop link off. I'm trying to decide between the blowtorch, long drift through the engine bay, or simply cut the thing approaches

Today: Glacial wind, and snow forecast, so doing stuff in the workshop, starting with getting the old ball joint out.
 
After a mixture of Champagne and 2016 St Emelion Bordeaux, I felt up to attacking the drop link. 4 grinding disks and a great deal of hammering later, the bugger came off in a few pieces. The new one dropped on in two minutes. Then the snow started again before I could do the wheel alignment and get it drivable again..
 
Hit my head on the indicator stalk on the S1.
Removed a few grease nipples,cleaned them off check the ball & spring.
Now broke the grease gun so off for a new 1 .can’t replace floor or pedals until Iv greases up a few other joints to make my life easier.

now looking for some tyres that will last more than 3k miles
 
Bodged the speedo cable. I have an upper that actually fits the instrument panel, but doesn't reach all the way to the takeoff on the gearbox.
I had a old one that reached, but would only stay on the odometer with cable ties.

So I cut the old one, and stuck it on the end of the new one with a 6mm terminal block, and I hope it'll hold to get through the control technique, and ideally until the correct one turns up...

I suspect it is a RHD/LHD length difference, but it is bloody annoying. Plus my two pointers, and a neighbour's collie were busy going crazy jumping in and out of the fountain, and wet dogs are a great aid to getting under the car to lead with cables...
 
Fitted new galvy rear mud flap brackets and flaps (JGS4X4) to replace the shoddy DIY ones the PO fitted. Had to insert some rivnuts to secure the brackets to the x-member then bolted the flaps on.

Before:
2DC32FF3-4754-4EB7-A8BF-1C12544EE899_1_105_c 2.jpeg

After:
EC651FF4-0E14-4F9C-BD82-0F377836A58A.jpeg

Also fitted n/s grab handle, which was a pig of a fiddly job getting access to the rear of the x-member.
The o/s grab handle requires removal of 2 of the wheel carrier bolts and I'm leaving that for another day :rolleyes:
 
Removed the sheet again on the S1 &!started it up to test the brakes. Re adjust the brake light sensor.
May need a new battery as not looking good after Been on charge for the night.
 
It's been a busy week so far. I posted here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/galvanised-heater-box.368881/ about finding a small fabricator who makes galvanised heater boxes. Have t-washed the outer casing, cleaned, degreased, zinc primed and three coats of Underhood Black. This is the end result...
20210325_145533.jpg


20210325_145623.jpg


20210325_145917.jpg


20210325_145802.jpg


Internally I've left as std galvanised finish and lined the inner sides with closed cell neoprene foam to heat retention. For anyone choosing this route with an uprated Alisport matrix I needed to 1. file a cut out in the main flap to give good clearance as the matrix is larger than the standard unit, and 2. to stop the matrix moving from vibration I've RTV'd the matrix along its base and sides.
 
Last edited:
And in other news here's the start of the new rear door...marking up/drilling upper cap, t-wash the frame, degrease and a good coat of Bilt Hamber's zinc primer [this is the world's heaviest zinc primer with 90% zinc !! o_O]
20210324_150617.jpg

20210324_170150.jpg

20210324_182047.jpg


Trow, flatten back and on with the NATAO Gloss Green...
 
Yes, it takes a little work to finish well. The trick is two light coats Upol Zinc Primer, let this dry for a good 24hrs, then three medium coats of Eastwood's Underhood Black allowing 2-4hrs between each coat and then don't touch for another 24+hrs. It's a job that can't be rushed :cool:
 
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