dunno - just thort it might be another option, rather than routing up to ceiling and then back down again?

I was gonna run em up the B pillar along the top of the side trim and mount the ecu in the rear load area at the top of the bulkhead. Just worried about the length required.:eek:
 
thats why i was thinking straight back, thru bulkhead and then up - shorter run? 2 Metres max.

1.2 metres up, 1.2 metres across. That doesn't take in to account routing the cable out of the seat box.

If it went straight back from the seat box it would sit 6" in the air cos there is a step under the 2nd row seats. If it went along the floor and then up and over the step it would need to be able to cope with 2x 90 degree bends. One internal, one external. I often stack the rear seating area with logs and firewood too so it would get treated a bit rough.
 
1.2 metres up, 1.2 metres across. That doesn't take in to account routing the cable out of the seat box.

If it went straight back from the seat box it would sit 6" in the air cos there is a step under the 2nd row seats. If it went along the floor and then up and over the step it would need to be able to cope with 2x 90 degree bends. One internal, one external. I often stack the rear seating area with logs and firewood too so it would get treated a bit rough.

I think i need to bring one down to get an on-site tryout. After the 27th.
 
yup - a temporary one for the next ten years while I get Tufftee on the road ;)

which reminds me - anyone got a Disco1 cubby lid spare, i can have?;)
 
Ordered parts for it's first non-garage service. Decided to go for genuine parts. Ouch. Only time it'll be getting treated methinks :)

Anyone know what size washer to get for the sump plug, as I cant exactly take mine off and drive it to the local motor factors.
 
Finally fixed the A-Frame outer trim that's been hanging off 'forever' .. and found the real cause was a slightly dropped door. So after undoing the three torx head bolts and hearing the inner threaded channel drop inside the door ... I found that all I'd needed to do was undo the bolts .. there are some spacers underneath to remove to shim the door closer to the front .. but they're slotted, open-ended and slide up so you don't lose the channel inside the door .. DOH!!!!!

So door card off, cut into the seal/membrane to find the window channel's a tad rusty, so sprayed with WD 40 for now, got my son to hold the door up while I got other son with tiny hands to push the channel up so I could screw the bolts in! Right feckin' palaver. Altogether now thobut, so decided that I had time to check the trailer socket. The caravan/trailer lights work, but the repeater light on the dash sometimes does and sometimes doesn't .. to find the whole thing bunged up like a single blob of rust! So bunged an old spare one on until I can get a decent new one.

I thought I'd siliconed it all when I put it together, but obviously I can't have.

So, walking away, looked back and noticed a screw in the nearside front tyre .. had a look, and a few mm still sticking out, so pulled it and it's only a 10mm screw, so hopefully it hasn't actually punctured the tyre, 'specially as it was on a tread block. We'll see tomorrow!!

Think I'm gonna stop 'having a minute fettling' ... one job leads to so many others ... ;)
 
LOL, checked my tyre (see earler post) and all's well ... so far!!

;)
 
did the bushes in my front radius arms - what a fookin joke!! trapped me fingers, got most of the mud from salsbury in me hair, snapped 3 drill bits, an it took me 5 freakin HOURS!!!! i HATE bushes!!

also decided to do some 'front end mods' after dinner so yet more work to do!! fitted me diff guard an put me steering guard together. gonna grease me nipples while im under there aswell, it never fookin ends:doh:
 
Finished replacing the towbar electrics. This time I've bunged 'em up with silicone .. ;)
 

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