Animal88
Active Member
attacked my boot lock tonight. got fed up unlocking 2 doors to climb through and lift the pin.
was hoping it was just a seized barrel but after stripping it down I found that none of my keys fitted the barrel. sorted it out with my dremel by leaving the door key in the barrel and grinding the pins flush. I don't know what key used to fit it but now all my doors work on the same key.
now to find out what got wet and has stopped my central locking
was hoping it was just a seized barrel but after stripping it down I found that none of my keys fitted the barrel. sorted it out with my dremel by leaving the door key in the barrel and grinding the pins flush. I don't know what key used to fit it but now all my doors work on the same key.
now to find out what got wet and has stopped my central locking
I've had some fuel leaks on my TD5 and have an MOT coming up in a couple of weeks so I've got some stuff to fix them. I've fitted some new pipes and a new fuel pressure regulator. Not a technically difficult job but lots of fiddling about trying to feed pipes along the top of the chassis rails and into elderly brittle plastic clips. Getting the old fuel pressure regulator off was a struggle too. Butchered the head of the bottom bolt (the one that's hardest to get at) but it came out eventually.
mikescuba
Well-Known Member
This is going to be an interesting day tomorrow. I have just received tne heater matrix and a new Rad for my Defender. I unpacked them both and placed them on the kitchen worktop only to find the Rad is buckled. It doesn't sit straight on the flat surface. One end lifts b y a good inch. Hope this will get straightened out when its installed. The replacement heater matrix doesn't look like it will last 25 year like the one I'm taking out.
Animal88
Active Member
painted my custom rear light bar and the rusty patches on my bullbars and sliders. don't want her looking too rough for the honeymoon. now just need to clean the inside out of yarwell. wouldn't mind getting my boost gauge plumbed in so I can keep a check on what the turbo is doing
steveo
Well-Known Member
Realised that the rattling from the back was the sliding window - the rivets had sheared..... 
So trims off in the rear, (exposing the capping rust..) drill out the rivets, and replace with M3 bolts and nuts - and the outer trim goes back on a treat over the bolt heads
tried to have a look at the back door frame, but after removing 16 (or was it 17) screws holding the panel on, I couldn't face drilling out the rusty bolts holding the one inch thick wood panel on the the back door... Why? just why would you do this?
So trims off in the rear, (exposing the capping rust..) drill out the rivets, and replace with M3 bolts and nuts - and the outer trim goes back on a treat over the bolt heads
tried to have a look at the back door frame, but after removing 16 (or was it 17) screws holding the panel on, I couldn't face drilling out the rusty bolts holding the one inch thick wood panel on the the back door... Why? just why would you do this?
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cornish rattler
Well-Known Member
Yesterday i re-fitted the engine and removed part of the A frame ready to start polybushing everything, found one of the bolts seized inside a bush, found a spare bolt in my spare bolts draw so Saturday i will cut the old one out and replace it when i come to refiting the A frame
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Pauldw
Member
Made and fitted new CB aerial mount.
Emptied boot ready for caravanning trip (actually to make room for the 3 barrels of beer ive got to collect for the trip...)
Finished rebuilding my winch - ready to fit once i can find/make a winch bumper
Drove to work in it...! (the Disco - not the winch!)
Emptied boot ready for caravanning trip (actually to make room for the 3 barrels of beer ive got to collect for the trip...)
Finished rebuilding my winch - ready to fit once i can find/make a winch bumper
Drove to work in it...! (the Disco - not the winch!)
Animal88
Active Member
checked all levels underneath and checked all bush torques after a few miles since fitting the polybushes. now just to grease props and check engine levels and hopefully have a smooth honeymoon. got a liftpump and 2 new aux belts in the boot already so thats that base covered tracking has been tweeked and tyres have been de-stoned and nitro inflated.
first holiday in 8 years will not be wrecked
first holiday in 8 years will not be wrecked
viamphie
Active Member
Last few days
fitted cylinder head back on. Re spaced tappers after missing one (twice). Fitted new lift pump (crappy Britpart with its poxy adapter connections.) primed fuel system and then
Took it for a drive and got home with out the need of a tow truck WOOOOHOOOO !!!
Forgot how bloody noisy it was inside lol
Took it for a drive and got home with out the need of a tow truck WOOOOHOOOO !!!
Forgot how bloody noisy it was inside lol
sp00k
Well-Known Member
Might as well order a delphi lift pump and keep it on hand for when the ****part one fails, which will be soon.
I've been trying to identify the source of some electrical peculiarities. First, on driving downhill or braking hard I sometimes get a flicker of the handbrake warning light. The handbrake is not on and it happens whether or not the switch is connected or not. Is there anywhere in particular where the wire's likely to chafe through? On a Defender 90 TD5?
Also, the interior light switched itself on as I was coming home this afternoon and then went off again. I think I may have found that problem - where the rear door switch wire comes down out of the headlining. There's a little notch in the insulation as it passes the edge of the roof panel.
Also, the interior light switched itself on as I was coming home this afternoon and then went off again. I think I may have found that problem - where the rear door switch wire comes down out of the headlining. There's a little notch in the insulation as it passes the edge of the roof panel.
viamphie
Active Member
markSX
Active Member
I don't know if a Fender has this warning, but most cars handbrake lights will come on if the brake fluid level is low, it's worth checking.
Yes indeed, that makes it come on too, but there's plenty of fluid. If you take the cap off and let the fluid drain out of the float switch it comes on, but I don't think that's the problem in this case. I think we've got a short.
