a2dds
Active Member
Used it to tow my quad to work. Then stripped the quad, cleaned it and made it work again, now its going to be towed back home.
Found out my leak is actually ATF fluid so I'm guessing an O ring has gone on the gearbox inside the bell housing. So its gotta come off when I have time and coins.
Found out my leak is actually ATF fluid so I'm guessing an O ring has gone on the gearbox inside the bell housing. So its gotta come off when I have time and coins.
FlyingPete
Well-Known Member
Central locking is up and running now
I wanted to keep the external key barrels as a backup in case of electrical faults- it seems sensible especially on a 1980s landy, and I think all production cars with keyless entry retain some form of emergency key.
The front doors were easy enough to do as the kit includes fittings to connect the rod from the motor to the rod from the internal lock tab. That's basically all a universal kit does- a motor connects somewhere to the existing locking mechanism in each door.
I managed to connect it to the alarm system so now all three doors lock/unlock with the alarm remote. Using the key on either front door will also trigger the other doors.
discomark10
Well-Known Member
Sprayed my headers and made a fuel rail adaptor for my new sard regulator.
cowasaki
Well-Known Member
Central locking is up and running now
I wanted to keep the external key barrels as a backup in case of electrical faults- it seems sensible especially on a 1980s landy, and I think all production cars with keyless entry retain some form of emergency key.
The front doors were easy enough to do as the kit includes fittings to connect the rod from the motor to the rod from the internal lock tab. That's basically all a universal kit does- a motor connects somewhere to the existing locking mechanism in each door.
I managed to connect it to the alarm system so now all three doors lock/unlock with the alarm remote. Using the key on either front door will also trigger the other doors.
I did this to mine but I removed the barrel for the safari door. I basically ground off the bit that goes through the hole plus another 1.5mm then glued a small piece of 1.6mm ali sheet across the whole area where the hole would be. Once that had been done it couldn't move and I used flexible filler to fill the hole and painted it. There is now no sign that there was ever a hole there. Worse case scenario is that I have to climb over the back seat to unlock the door but it's working fine for now.
This week, complete brake overhaul, fitted snorkel, fitted new Volvo seats, sanded all the galv side rails etc, sanded rear inner tub, complete change of all lights and new smaller steering wheel so I can fit in with the new seats. Today was a complete waste of time, wanted to fit steering guard but could I get one of the bolts out from the front leaf springs? Could I hell like, anyone got any tips for removal?.....
Animal88
Active Member
got my led bulbs through and the h4 headlight ones will only work on dip beam if I disconnect the high beam side of the plug so I'll be investigating the wiring tomorrow as it was feeding weird voltages. then tried fitting the led bulbs to my roof lights to have one of the wires fall out the bulb so will be putting the halogen bulbs back in tomorrow. on the plus side though the 501 led's work a treat and I can now see that the sidelights are on unlike before
mikescuba
Well-Known Member
Changed the front prop shaft and flange in an attempt to try and find where this vibration is coming from. Will disconnect the rear prop shaft tomorrow and see if that makes any difference to the vibration. I'm coming to the conclusion it might be coming from the transfer box.
Little Butch
Active Member
This week, made a start changing oils (done engine and rear diff so far), sorted out loads of tools to go under my drivers seat, general tidy up etc...
Hope to get my new fuel tank fitted before the end of the weekend and finish changing gearbox, transfer box and frog diff oils
Hope to get my new fuel tank fitted before the end of the weekend and finish changing gearbox, transfer box and frog diff oils
jellybaby1978
New Member
I prodded a small rust patch on the rear arch near the seat belt mount. Oops shes off to be welded next week welder said hes ordering some more wire cuz he'll need it.
Dave90
Well-Known Member
Fitted a diy take off in intake plenium for boost gauge (200tdi)
Good idea, also if your feeling adventurous, plumb the from the inlet manifold to the waste gate, the waste gate will only open when the set pressure is at the intake, rather than at the turbo. This made a big difference to mine with a wound up fuel pump, turbo @ 1 Bar and an Allisport intercooler
I've been drilling old hinge screws out of the font door hinges. It's tough on drill bits because they're made out of something very hard. Maybe it would have been quicker to buy new hinges as well and merely grind the whole lot off with an angle grinder. Anyway, it's done now and new captive nuts and screws have been installed with lots of grease on. Plus the doorpost has been hammered flat to compensate for some distortion probably caused by the door being opened too wide.
While I was out an old man came up and asked me if I wanted some oil. He went home to get it and came back with a boot load of containers with various stuff in, mostly 20w50 and 10w40 and other things unsuitable for a TD5. I took it anyway. If it's clean I can add it to the fuel over a period of time, plus have a bit left for putting in the oil can.
While I was out an old man came up and asked me if I wanted some oil. He went home to get it and came back with a boot load of containers with various stuff in, mostly 20w50 and 10w40 and other things unsuitable for a TD5. I took it anyway. If it's clean I can add it to the fuel over a period of time, plus have a bit left for putting in the oil can.
truckerkev65
New Member
Just fitted all new disc and pads to my disco
