Think someone tried a "cash for crash" in front of Silverlandy tonight. Peugeot 206 fairly old and beat up. 60mph straight road, stopped for no reason whatsoever and it was wet!! They didn't succeed, after all, they are still alive ;)
 
Silverlandy said:
Think someone tried a "cash for crash" in front of Silverlandy tonight. Peugeot 206 fairly old and beat up. 60mph straight road, stopped for no reason whatsoever and it was wet!! They didn't succeed, after all, they are still alive ;)
Click to expand...

No pics
 
Set about putting recovery points on the disco for the Dales trip. I've got a brand new pair of Jate rings I bought a bit back but never got round to fixing them. Disco has a substantial bash plate on the front which uses the same mounting point as the jate rings. Plenty of grinding later one will just about go on but is fouled by the mounting plate on the bash plate.
Unable to get a big shackle through it because of bumper overrider - so trimmed off
Score for the day:
Metal splinter in finger
Burnt thumb - Jate rings retain a lot of heat
Grazed knee - don't wear shorts next time
Arthritis playing up again - too much kneeling down

One Jate ring not yet attatched ...
 
cleaned up my replacement thermostat housing and modified it to have a bleed screw in the top of the housing




hopefully this should help get rid of the air lock easier as this point seems to be the highest point of the cooling system and it was the top hose that held the air last time
 
fanatic said:
No pics
Click to expand...

I do have a dash cam app on my phone...but it wasn't on today, just the normal trip home from the yard so didn't think.

Tell ya what, I really had to slam the anchors on but was far enough behind to stop in time. There really was no reason for him to do this, no junctions, no oncoming traffic, no puddles, animals etc ...just braked really hard, paused a bit, then drove off, later on turned off really slowly...I could be wrong, could just be a **** driver. Did have a dented rear end though :scratching_chin:
 
lots! only finished at ten to midnight :eek:

must say though I am enjoying having a series for my daily :D even if it does lock the brakes up every time I have to slam on for some dumb tourist cnut overtaking cyclists on bends
 
Has anyone ever had the problem of the drive flange on a rear axle with drums getting stuck.... I've had 3 heads snap of their bolts. 2 came out complete.

I've used a big hammer & chisel in the gap between the drive flange and the rest of the hub, its moved a smidgen, but not really moving. Now its leaking diff oil all over the wheel which isnt great.

MOT soon, not sure this is quite acceptable! :D :hurt:

I dont care about the drive flange getting damaged, have replacement ones. Obviously need some of the shank on the bolt to get the rest of it out of the hub with a pair of grips. I expect its the shank that has seized and not the thread.

Anyone got any tips??? Cheeers
 
a2dds said:
Has anyone ever had the problem of the drive flange on a rear axle with drums getting stuck.... I've had 3 heads snap of their bolts. 2 came out complete.

I've used a big hammer & chisel in the gap between the drive flange and the rest of the hub, its moved a smidgen, but not really moving. Now its leaking diff oil all over the wheel which isnt great.

MOT soon, not sure this is quite acceptable! :D :hurt:

I dont care about the drive flange getting damaged, have replacement ones. Obviously need some of the shank on the bolt to get the rest of it out of the hub with a pair of grips. I expect its the shank that has seized and not the thread.

Anyone got any tips??? Cheeers
Click to expand...



The flange with shaft should pull straight out, however if its stuck I'd assume its a case of a very tight fit in the spiders or a lot of ****e making it stick

Try a crowbar and attempt to prise it out, my series 3 hub was quite well stuck in there but a few smacks with a hammer and a bit of bar to pry it out worked
 
Dr_evil said:
The flange with shaft should pull straight out, however if its stuck I'd assume its a case of a very tight fit in the spiders or a lot of ****e making it stick

Try a crowbar and attempt to prise it out, my series 3 hub was quite well stuck in there but a few smacks with a hammer and a bit of bar to pry it out worked
Click to expand...


There are 5 bolts that hold the drive flange onto the hub, but 3 of them the heads have snapped clean off. 2 came out fine.


I used an angle grinder to clean up the snapped heads and make them flush with the flange. The problem is these bolts :/


But where I have gone at it for a few hours with a hammer you can see they have moved a little bit. as there is now a lip between the bolt and the flange. unfortunately it wont go any further and the seal has now been broken between the hub and the flange. So its leaking.


I shall take a piccy and try and upload for you :)
 
It can only come backwards then :p if you can't remove the bolt or slice through the stalk then it's just going to be a case of brute force I'm afraid
 
Here we go. Some piccys of what im dealing with. As you can see the flange is sitting slightly proud.


yzepa2uh.jpg


umase8u9.jpg
 
you got a blowtorch or oxy ? if so you could try heating it if not try welding a nut to the left over bit, the heat may just free it up
 
Dr_evil said:
you got a blowtorch or oxy ? if so you could try heating it if not try welding a nut to the left over bit, the heat may just free it up
Click to expand...

Dont have a welder..... Did try a bit of propane on it. But I can obvs heat all 3 of them at the same time so its not hugely effective. Might have to give it another go though.
 
If I was in that position I'd just sacrifice the drive flange. They're not very dear. You've got a grinder, you know what to do. Once it's out of the way you might be able to shift the bolts with a mole wrench or Stillson, especially if you grind some 'flats' on them.
 
Brown said:
If I was in that position I'd just sacrifice the drive flange. They're not very dear. You've got a grinder, you know what to do. Once it's out of the way you might be able to shift the bolts with a mole wrench or Stillson, especially if you grind some 'flats' on them.
Click to expand...

I have been tempted, but tbh I'm not quite sure what to do ha! Where do i cut to leave the bolt shanks intact.

I have got a pair of replacement heavy duty flanges ready to go on. And Bolts too of course :cool2:
 
stopped that infernal clanking from the rear shock absorbers - only took a bit of modification and 7mins a piece! Ah .... bliss!!!
 
a2dds said:
There are 5 bolts that hold the drive flange onto the hub, but 3 of them the heads have snapped clean off. 2 came out fine.


I used an angle grinder to clean up the snapped heads and make them flush with the flange. The problem is these bolts :/


But where I have gone at it for a few hours with a hammer you can see they have moved a little bit. as there is now a lip between the bolt and the flange. unfortunately it wont go any further and the seal has now been broken between the hub and the flange. So its leaking.


I shall take a piccy and try and upload for you :)
Click to expand...

id grind a deep groove into the bolt shaft and use a large flat head screw driver and wrench with plenty of pushing force - has helped me in the past in the same situation - good old dremel multitool!!! used a small engraving bit to cut the groove!
 
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