timtheenchanteruk
Well-Known Member
ripped out my failed dim-dip relay, so now the headlights work again...
and received a nice lil parcel with my 99p alfa romeo side repeaters, I feel a dremel coming out in the next week or so...
my bit a defender bling
and received a nice lil parcel with my 99p alfa romeo side repeaters, I feel a dremel coming out in the next week or so...
my bit a defender bling
mutsnutz
Well-Known Member
and if it goes clickety clack clickety clack then its either few horses trying to escape or you have turned to far and ended up at aintree
a2dds
Active Member
Deduced that its not steering related, coming from clutch end of yhe gear box, transfer box, front diff area. Noticed that changing down a gear and letting the engine speed uo causes a sligjt squeel as the clutch engages. Also seems to make the little clicking-metalic chirping noise when in reverse even if the clutch isnt engaged and jusy rolling.
So I think its drive train related but no idea what
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
Deduced that its not steering related, coming from clutch end of yhe gear box, transfer box, front diff area. Noticed that changing down a gear and letting the engine speed uo causes a sligjt squeel as the clutch engages. Also seems to make the little clicking-metalic chirping noise when in reverse even if the clutch isnt engaged and jusy rolling.
So I think its drive train related but no idea what
have a look at oil in gear box
a2dds
Active Member
Did thay couple weeks ago and it started dribbling out the fill hole, hadnt lost a drop. Transfer box was pretty empty, and had moisture because fluid was white. So filled that, doubt its gone down that fast
Animal88
Active Member
this should be a better pic for you
I can't seem to get to see the part numbers but as I've said its from an x reg mondeo 2 litre 16v it's a bosch 90 amp unit
discomark10
Well-Known Member
Had a bit of a look, it seems there isnt one on this model, atleast not one with a connector, all alternators are capable of having the output for it.
Theres 2 options.. take the plastic cover off the back and have a look for a hidden connection ( post a few pics if you want) there is a slightly different model of this alternator that has said output so chances are it might still be there.
The other option is to solder a wire onto 1 of the 3 diode trio's with some decent pics of the diode area I could guide you to do it.
Animal88
Active Member
ok i'll let you know by pm when i have managed to get to the innerds should be this friday hopefully then i'll post pics up on my alternator thread here
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/alternator-help-251362-3.html save spamming this thread
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/alternator-help-251362-3.html save spamming this thread
discomark10
Well-Known Member
timtheenchanteruk
Well-Known Member
window etched the fender..
got a kit from this chap
VEHICLE WINDOW SECURITY CAR GLASS ETCHING KIT | eBay
only comes with 10 templates, but he threw in an extra 4 for nowt so I could do all the windows on the 110.
15 min job.
got a kit from this chap
VEHICLE WINDOW SECURITY CAR GLASS ETCHING KIT | eBay
only comes with 10 templates, but he threw in an extra 4 for nowt so I could do all the windows on the 110.
15 min job.
the_wolf
Well-Known Member
Enjoyed a slightly smoother drive into work (not counting the clunks and vibration that I haven't managed to source yet). Definitely think getting rid of the polys at the front and fitting genuine metalastik was the way forward. What a difference! Just the rear suspension arms to do and jobs a fish
cornish rattler
Well-Known Member
Dropped son and g/friend off at Manchester airport this morning as they have both gone to Egypt for a week
Today I have mostly been cursing the evil genius that designed the electric seat switches on the Discovery 1!
Having decided to explore why I had limited movemement in the seat I removed the switch to see what was going on - and promptly ended up with a pile of ball bearings, springs and bits of copper...
A little bit of logic, some contact cleaner, much swearing and things went back together..
After putting it together again I realised I'd put some of it the wrong way around - the seats would only do down and not up! The two plastic posts on the bottom left and right of the switch needed swapping around - job done!
Now I have a passanger seat that moves properly and a drivers seat that sort of moves - to save issues I think once the drivers seat is back how I want it I might just remove the fuses under the passenger seat so it stays where I want it and I don't accidentally move it!
Having decided to explore why I had limited movemement in the seat I removed the switch to see what was going on - and promptly ended up with a pile of ball bearings, springs and bits of copper...
A little bit of logic, some contact cleaner, much swearing and things went back together..
After putting it together again I realised I'd put some of it the wrong way around - the seats would only do down and not up! The two plastic posts on the bottom left and right of the switch needed swapping around - job done!
Now I have a passanger seat that moves properly and a drivers seat that sort of moves - to save issues I think once the drivers seat is back how I want it I might just remove the fuses under the passenger seat so it stays where I want it and I don't accidentally move it!
the_wolf
Well-Known Member
What in the hell is that plastic mess?! :what:.
I've got a lever underneath my seat. With this I can move it backwards and forwards a little and if it gets stiff I spray it with oil. I also have a handle at the side which let's me adjust the back or tilt it right forward if I need to. Nice and simple
:what:.I've got a lever underneath my seat. With this I can move it backwards and forwards a little and if it gets stiff I spray it with oil. I also have a handle at the side which let's me adjust the back or tilt it right forward if I need to. Nice and simple
