Kwakerman
Well-Known Member
Swivel hubs fitted to the wrong sides!
Kwakerman
Well-Known Member
Left hand one
border
Well-Known Member
You got it Mate. Yes which photo do you think is the right way ??
Kwakerman
Well-Known Member
Left, track rod connections should be same side of the axle to the diff input
Kwakerman
Well-Known Member
I cant believe you would be the first one to do that!
border
Well-Known Member
I Can
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
the right, but wasnt caliper mounting holes a clue
dag019
Well-Known Member
That's what you get for taking everything to pieces rather than doing one side at a timeI Can
border
Well-Known Member
So is this photo the correct way ? Looking at it the left side has arms sticking out back and front, the right side just one sticking out back , so two facing you one each side when looking at photo are these for track rod?? and on the left there is another one sticking out other side
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Kwakerman
Well-Known Member
Yes, the track rod goes between the two arms on the diff input side of the axle, the one on the left which is on the opposite side to the diff input is for the steering arm.
Assuming you have a standard RH drive vehicle!
border
Well-Known Member
Just about to start on the rear axle, But not sure weather its OK or not, want to make sure before I start. Finally got the Flange off, Looks like its quite worn so will get new one. There is side to side and up and down play on the end of the shaft,in photo. Is this Normal ?? also do the Splines look OK ?
Thanks
Thanks
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Kwakerman
Well-Known Member
Once you remove the flange nut you lose your preload on the taper bearings, the inner race can then slide out of the outer which will allow you to feel some movement. If it felt ok before you took the flange off you should be ok
border
Well-Known Member
Don't think it was like that before I removed the nut. will try and get the seal out tomorrow, and order new kit. I also forgot to put marks on so I could get it back to the right preload, read a couple of different ways to do this, some say just tighten as tight as you can with breaker bar. Any Ideas ?
Kwakerman
Well-Known Member
Preload is set by shims and the torque on the nut clamps it all together, If you are replacing the pinion bearings then use Timken and it should remain about correct. If the original bearings are staying put then torquing the nut up correctly should be all you need to do.
border
Well-Known Member
Thanks Now this is what it looked like after removing nut and Flange. Is there even a seal there ?
