Just reading a post about drilling holes in the lid of the EAS box, will give this a try next. I chopped out the plugs and soldered them up last year. I will also try a new usb/serial adapter, got a maplins near me that should have one.
 
clivesP38 said:
Just reading a post about drilling holes in the lid of the EAS box, will give this a try next. I chopped out the plugs and soldered them up last year. I will also try a new usb/serial adapter, got a maplins near me that should have one.
Click to expand...
Drill 15mm holes along the sloping edge of the lid closest to the wing and the rear edge, does the job with minimal risk of water/crap entry
 
Well I left the top of the EAS unit to see if it helped! It didn't so that not causing the problem. Went to maplins, they have a lead for usb to serial price at £20...... It' s still on there shelf. So where did you guys get your leads and did it work!? How much?
 
Last edited:
clivesP38 said:
Well I left the top of the EAS unit to see if it helped! It didn't so that not causing the problem. Went to maplins, they have a lead for usb to serial price at £20...... It' s still on there shelf. So where did yo guys get your leads and did it work!? How much?
Click to expand...

See the man above your post he's the cable man :D
 
Got one from Datatek but it comes with a serial connector, I need to connect to my laptop which only has a USB port, hence I need a lead/adapter that goes from USB to serial.
 
Pay Maplins the £20, I did and not had a problem the few times its been used with Datateks lead.
 
clivesP38 said:
Well I left the top of the EAS unit to see if it helped! It didn't so that not causing the problem. Went to maplins, they have a lead for usb to serial price at £20...... It' s still on there shelf. So where did you guys get your leads and did it work!? How much?
Click to expand...
Ebay is your friend, but you must make sure you get one that is fully RS232 compatable and has drivers for your version of Windows, I paid £1.60 for the last one including post from China:)
 
Ok, got these codes from my P38.

2 : FR signal incorrect
6 : RR signal incorrect
1 : Vehicle speed fault
7 : Vehicle has moved

Also these were the readings from the boxes above
F8 68
F9 130
Fa 0
Fb 0
Fc 0

The reason for looking at the faults was my RR has dropped to the bump stops (for the last 6 months I have had the christmas tree lights on the switch every now and again) and displays the 'max 35mph' message.

NOW as I unplugged the lead and closed the software down the dash showed a new message...'Traction control failure' and when I turned the ignition off it shows 'gearbox fault'.

First of all why is the car dropping to the bump stops?
and second is the two new messages because I didn't shut it down correctly? How do I put it right?
 
Do you park it on level ground ? If so try leaving the tail gate ajar and see if it still does it.
These cars self level and can over do it sometimes if not level .
 
clivesP38 said:
Ok, got these codes from my P38.

2 : FR signal incorrect
6 : RR signal incorrect
1 : Vehicle speed fault
7 : Vehicle has moved

Also these were the readings from the boxes above
F8 68
F9 130
Fa 0
Fb 0
Fc 0

The reason for looking at the faults was my RR has dropped to the bump stops (for the last 6 months I have had the christmas tree lights on the switch every now and again) and displays the 'max 35mph' message.

NOW as I unplugged the lead and closed the software down the dash showed a new message...'Traction control failure' and when I turned the ignition off it shows 'gearbox fault'.

First of all why is the car dropping to the bump stops?
and second is the two new messages because I didn't shut it down correctly? How do I put it right?
Click to expand...
FR & RR signal incorrect will be height sensors or corroded connectors. Check the connectors behind the panels in front of the front door jambs as well as the ones on the sensors. You may need to replace the sensors.
The other 2 messages are likely to be low battery voltage.
 
Thanks Datatek, so will the messages go when the car is started up? Or do I need to clear them somehow? Will a faulty height sensor cause it to drop to the bump stop? Or is it more likely to be the compressor need rebuilding?
 
clivesP38 said:
Thanks Datatek, so will the messages go when the car is started up? Or do I need to clear them somehow? Will a faulty height sensor cause it to drop to the bump stop? Or is it more likely to be the compressor need rebuilding?
Click to expand...

Clear the codes see if they come back. If they do clean the sensor connections and see what you get then. Look at the "How to" section and follow the instructions to diagnose compressor problems.
 
wammers said:
Clear the codes see if they come back. If they do clean the sensor connections and see what you get then. Look at the "How to" section and follow the instructions to diagnose compressor problems.
Click to expand...
And in addition check your battery voltage.
 
Hi, a bit new to the forum being trying to find a link for fault codes and this thread seems to be the closest, got a P38 DHSE the SRS light has come on read the code with an Omnitec it shows DTC read 1 - B1041 - open circuit fault redundant - fault warning lamp, been trying to find out what B1041 refers to, one Scandinavian site linked this to the passenger air bag, anyone know what it refers to
 
roger01 said:
Hi, a bit new to the forum being trying to find a link for fault codes and this thread seems to be the closest, got a P38 DHSE the SRS light has come on read the code with an Omnitec it shows DTC read 1 - B1041 - open circuit fault redundant - fault warning lamp, been trying to find out what B1041 refers to, one Scandinavian site linked this to the passenger air bag, anyone know what it refers to
Click to expand...

Would think one of the two bulbs has failed. If one fails the other stays on.
 
Hi thanks for the reply, I will remove the inst cluster and have a look, it needs to come out anyway because a couple of the inst illumination lamps have gone, should have mentioned in the first post, the srs light comes on and the message reads air bag fault, press the btm left stalk button and message clears but srs light stays on, I did reset the dtc codes whilst plugged in and the srs light went out but of course came back on when I switched ign of and on again, would this still be the case if it was one of the bulbs failed
 
roger01 said:
Hi thanks for the reply, I will remove the inst cluster and have a look, it needs to come out anyway because a couple of the inst illumination lamps have gone, should have mentioned in the first post, the srs light comes on and the message reads air bag fault, press the btm left stalk button and message clears but srs light stays on, I did reset the dtc codes whilst plugged in and the srs light went out but of course came back on when I switched ign of and on again, would this still be the case if it was one of the bulbs failed
Click to expand...

Check your under seat wires( yellow ones) , usualy a wire brakes due to seat ajustments.
 
roger01 said:
Hi, a bit new to the forum being trying to find a link for fault codes and this thread seems to be the closest, got a P38 DHSE the SRS light has come on read the code with an Omnitec it shows DTC read 1 - B1041 - open circuit fault redundant - fault warning lamp, been trying to find out what B1041 refers to, one Scandinavian site linked this to the passenger air bag, anyone know what it refers to
Click to expand...
The OP's fault codes are only to do with the suspension, not the SRS.
As Wammers said, faulty SRS lamp, there are 2, if one fails the other will stay on.
 
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