Hi all, after plenty of fault finding, I think it may be the ignition amp that is playing up. I have had a search around on that giant skip that is ebay and cannot find an amp available seperatly, only with a dizzy attached.

My amp has two pins like this |-, are there various types of dizzy or just the one that have that type of connection? If so what do I need?

I would wait till im home but just thought I would have a look whilst at work.

Kind regards
Jonathan

Take a look here for starters...

RPi Engineering - V8 Engine - Electrical

Hi Jonathan,
Try here for your amplifier,

Land Rover Parts Shop


What problems do you have with your dizzy ?
I may be able to help

Regards Fred

Also

Hi Fred, cheers for that. Its just the same running probs that I have been experiencing for a while. Starts up fine, ticks over fine, revs up no probs on the drive. Go for a spin, and as soon as she starts to warm up, she kicks, splutters, runs lumpy, missing. Plugs, leads, AFM all fine. Not timing chain as engine is sweet and quiet. PO said he had probs with dirt in the resistor pack plug, checked that and was fine. I think it may be the ignition amp thats beginning to give up the ghost, so I guess no probs with the dizzy itself, just the amp, but I didnt realise you could buy them seperatly.

Kind regards
Jonathan

Check also your coolant temperature sensor.

TimoV said:

Check also your coolant temperature sensor.

Click to expand...

Where is it located? I will have a look tonight and see what happens.

Kind regards
Jonathan

Inlet manifold, just behind the dizzy there are two sensors. One's the coolant temp one.

The one behind the easy one.

You can measure the resistance between the cts pins when car is cold and hot with a multimeter. Resistance should be around 5-6 kOhms at 0 C and 200 Ohms at 95 C). There should be no thresholds when the sensor warms up i.e. you should get continuous readings between those values.

Hi Jonathan,
Only had amplifiers go open circuit but I hear in hot countries they fit a bracket on the bulkhead and extension leads to stop over heating of the amplifier.

I have had the the following though

Small bore hose on the plenum chaber with a small crack in it.
Cut 1/2 " off and replace .... If you pull it off while engine is running you will see what problems it causes.

After market or non genuine Lucas Ignition spares, Dizzy cover, rotor, leads etc. are prone to giving strange ploblems. The rotor arms are very prone to shorting out.

Poor quality or incorrect spark plugs.

Arcing at coil due to poor crimps or loose nuts.

Condenser lead insulation worn allowing it to intermittently short. (On coil)

Reluctor coil lead intermittently open circuit, breaks occur near the blue plug on side of dizzy. May be repaired with new bit of lead.

You will laugh at this one..
Bob weights stuck.. Rotor should spring back when turned clockwise and released. (I had this one last week .... Weights stuck fully open and she would only start after considerable cranking then run fairly well, Stop her and leaver her for an hour and you have the same problem all over again.. coughing spluttering and a pig to start)

Don't know if this helps

Good luck
Fred