Tried to get the backer rod into the boot seal. It's too damn tight to get all the way round and the backer rod too delicate. Moreover, the bottom corner each side has an extra tube of rubber inside the seal so it is doubled up but more importantly has a restriction. Broke one of my rods that I use for threading electrical cable. An utter nightmare of an afternoon but it is possible to get shorter lengths in at the corners. 15 mm fits inside the boot seal if you enlarge one of the existing holes and with one of said rods and sone Vaseline feed the backer rod through. Done one side and will see how it performs. Looks like we've got plenty of rain on the way to test it!
 
Salisbury Nick said:
More modifications for me.
New 30% bigger all aluminium radiator.
New after market electric fan controlled by switch on the dash.
New Flux Capacitor! - Makes it go better.

I had been using Keith's air con fan mod after removing the viscous fan - but it was not quite up to the job on more taxing routes - a couple of fans the wrong side of the air con rad and working on a standard usually mud encrusted LR rad were always going to struggle and it was over heating in slow uphill situations. So treated myself to this - as recommended by the LZ experts!

View attachment 301447View attachment 301448View attachment 301449
View attachment 301451
Click to expand...

Ooo. That looks the business.

I did notice the Nissens rad I put in was slightly thinner and not so dense as the original Land Rover one and not quite as efficient at dunping heat. That one looks pretty darn good.
 
Otto is accurate to the GPS up to about 25mph, and again from about 65 (don't know how far as don't tend to hustle him like that), but in between is up to 10mph slow on the speedo. It is something to tinker with one day, when I run out of real jobs to do...
 
Grrrrrr said:
Ooo. That looks the business.

I did notice the Nissens rad I put in was slightly thinner and not so dense as the original Land Rover one and not quite as efficient at dunping heat. That one looks pretty darn good.
Click to expand...
I actually did it in spring bit only just got round to posting. It has been bang on perfect ever since. I'm really pleased with it. However, the link you gave me earlier to a thread about off-road equipment landed on a years old discussion about removing the viscous fan because it disintegrates on contact with water - so far so good - thats what I have done for same reason - and replacing it with a switched electric fan - still good - which you switch off when wading - but then doesn't work when you come out because the fan motor doesn't like getting wet..... :oops: Maybe I didn't think that through! I'll find out soon, got a trip to Devon booked in December, and that is often quite wet with some good wading sections.
 
Salisbury Nick said:
I actually did it in spring bit only just got round to posting. It has been bang on perfect ever since. I'm really pleased with it. However, the link you gave me earlier to a thread about off-road equipment landed on a years old discussion about removing the viscous fan because it disintegrates on contact with water - so far so good - thats what I have done for same reason - and replacing it with a switched electric fan - still good - which you switch off when wading - but then doesn't work when you come out because the fan motor doesn't like getting wet..... :oops: Maybe I didn't think that through! I'll find out soon, got a trip to Devon booked in December, and that is often quite wet with some good wading sections.
Click to expand...

I'm sure it is possible to water-proof a fan but that's one reason I liked the mechanical linkage. Waded in mine above where I should have done and the viscous fan was fine. Air filter got a bit wet but I got away with it.
 
buggrit. rear brake sticking on slightly, just enough to catch and make the disc warm :/
thats not going to help my mpg!!
not sure if i will be able to look at it tomorrow or sunday :(
its always when you 'need' the car
 
kermit_rr said:
With a proper hand brake, I'd every now and then apply lightly at low speed, to keep the rust off, can't do that with electric, it's either on full, or off
Click to expand...
You can with diagnostics though ;)
I am also pretty sure you can get it to come on a degree while car is still moving, but would have to re read all the EPB stuff.

J
 
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