After presenting Buttercup with a nice set of new boots, the road noise is so reduced from running on the old noisy A/T's that I could hear a nasty whine when driving over 60mph, quite bad at 70 odd. Thought it might be T' box, and probably about time I changed the atf anyway. Had a look at Ashcrofts site and see they recommend dexron 111, so changed it for that, the old stuff was dexron 11, and was a bit dirty but not too bad. Anyway, road test and seemed a lot better. Flushed (!!) with success I decided the front axle could do with a change of fluid, took the fill/level plug out and a load of grease contaminated oil poured out, so the one shot in the swivels is now in the axle. Bummer.
Just ordered a full set of seals and wheel bearings and replacement bolts, I'm hoping to be able to do it all without having to disturb the swivel balls as they are good, and it will be work I can do without.
Hey ho, I shall soon be the proud owner of a brand new old classic if I have to keep replacing things at this rate.:(:(:(:(:(
 
frog hopper said:
After presenting Buttercup with a nice set of new boots, the road noise is so reduced from running on the old noisy A/T's that I could hear a nasty whine when driving over 60mph, quite bad at 70 odd. Thought it might be T' box, and probably about time I changed the atf anyway. Had a look at Ashcrofts site and see they recommend dexron 111, so changed it for that, the old stuff was dexron 11, and was a bit dirty but not too bad. Anyway, road test and seemed a lot better. Flushed (!!) with success I decided the front axle could do with a change of fluid, took the fill/level plug out and a load of grease contaminated oil poured out, so the one shot in the swivels is now in the axle. Bummer.
Just ordered a full set of seals and wheel bearings and replacement bolts, I'm hoping to be able to do it all without having to disturb the swivel balls as they are good, and it will be work I can do without.
Hey ho, I shall soon be the proud owner of a brand new old classic if I have to keep replacing things at this rate.:(:(:(:(:(
Click to expand...
Quit your yarping, you love it ;)
 
frog hopper said:
After presenting Buttercup with a nice set of new boots, the road noise is so reduced from running on the old noisy A/T's that I could hear a nasty whine when driving over 60mph, quite bad at 70 odd. Thought it might be T' box, and probably about time I changed the atf anyway. Had a look at Ashcrofts site and see they recommend dexron 111, so changed it for that, the old stuff was dexron 11, and was a bit dirty but not too bad. Anyway, road test and seemed a lot better. Flushed (!!) with success I decided the front axle could do with a change of fluid, took the fill/level plug out and a load of grease contaminated oil poured out, so the one shot in the swivels is now in the axle. Bummer.
Just ordered a full set of seals and wheel bearings and replacement bolts, I'm hoping to be able to do it all without having to disturb the swivel balls as they are good, and it will be work I can do without.
Hey ho, I shall soon be the proud owner of a brand new old classic if I have to keep replacing things at this rate.:(:(:(:(:(
Click to expand...
Triggers broom syndrome:)
 
Loaded him up with about half a ton of miscellaneous stuff and took it to the new house, then came home an alternative way and gave him a blast of full kickdown by way of relief. Behaved perfectly except for one cold stop stall and taking about a mile to come up from access height. Solenoid block rebuild definitely required.
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
Loaded him up with about half a ton of miscellaneous stuff and took it to the new house, then came home an alternative way and gave him a blast of full kickdown by way of relief. Behaved perfectly except for one cold stop stall and taking about a mile to come up from access height. Solenoid block rebuild definitely required.
Click to expand...

More like eas pump needs rebuild or just do both to be sure to be sure:D
 
I'd say Pump is the first thing mate and then do the valve block, I use to have a spare of each and re-built ready to go then when needed I would swap over units and then re-build the ones taken out.
Also do the air dryer mate as they get full and blow white powder all over the valves thats when they stick.
 
Pump already done, valve block and 4 new bags to do, planning on also blowing through all the lines with my welding argon to try to get them clean when they are fully disconnected. Dryer also on replacement list as will be the original 25 year old one.
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
Pump already done, valve block and 4 new bags to do, planning on also blowing through all the lines with my welding argon to try to get them clean when they are fully disconnected. Dryer also on replacement list as will be the original 25 year old one.
Click to expand...
The only thing that will make the car slow to rise is lack of air pressure, if the pump is not weak and it doesn't drop when parked, maybe there is a leak on the storage side.
 
Datatek said:
The only thing that will make the car slow to rise is lack of air pressure, if the pump is not weak and it doesn't drop when parked, maybe there is a leak on the storage side.
Click to expand...
Drops to the stops over about a week, so I think some leaks on exhaust side also draining the tank. Need to clean and paint/protect the tank anyway, so can check then. Lots of systems seem to have had little to no maintenance for quite a while, but we are fettling him back to good as we get to it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Range Rover L322 - not turning over
Replies
12
Views
2K
gold rover
gold rover
B
L320 range rover sport 3.0 tdv6 loosing power steering fluid
Replies
3
Views
535
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
F
1980 Range Rover 2 door v8 to 300tdi
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
T
Non start
Replies
3
Views
717
Datatek
Datatek
T
Fan Clutch??
Replies
14
Views
799
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr