Musicmaker said:
Could be interested in one myself. Is the Lynx version licensed for 1 vehicle only?
Click to expand...

No, just pay £1200 and it can do all Land Rovers:D

Think the cheap version is one vehicle only, but haven't tried if it can do other P38's, but definitely only one model (P38 in my case)

Edit/Addition: What makes me think it may do more than one vehicle is the option to select 3 different engine types found in the p38 i.e. Diesel, Gems & Thor, have tried to use the Gems for my Thor, it does read a lot but mostly wrong numbers. Really need another RR hooked up before I know for sure.
 
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Druim said:
No, just pay £1200 and it can do all Land Rovers:D

Think the cheap version is one vehicle only, but haven't tried if it can do other P38's, but definitely only one model (P38 in my case)
Click to expand...

The cheap one is locked to a VIN i believe. Single car use only.
 
Musicmaker said:
Could be interested in one myself. Is the Lynx version licensed for 1 vehicle only?
Click to expand...

Only I vehicle type I think, it's good value but you need a laptop with you (unlike the nanocom) I can't see any way of using it to resync the immobiliser and the EAS function offers the Testbook-style calibration so you can't just edit individual values.
 
Changed ATF (Whatever that is:rolleyes:), in gear & transfer box, old fluid looked in really good nick, previous owners have had it changed frequently according to all the paper work there followed with the car.
Also changed oil in both diff's that also looked good.
New air filter and throttle housing cleaned.
Brake fluid partially changed.
Next is to figure out if I can change the thermostat without removing the fan as I simply cannot loosen it with the tools I have.(It's a Thor)
 
Druim said:
Changed ATF (Whatever that is:rolleyes:), in gear & transfer box, old fluid looked in really good nick, previous owners have had it changed frequently according to all the paper work there followed with the car.
Also changed oil in both diff's that also looked good.
New air filter and throttle housing cleaned.
Brake fluid partially changed.
Next is to figure out if I can change the thermostat without removing the fan as I simply cannot loosen it with the tools I have.(It's a Thor)
Click to expand...
Remember petrols are normal thread anticlockwise to loosen only diesels are clockwise threads.
 
Grit Valve said:
Remember petrols are normal thread anticlockwise to loosen only diesels are clockwise threads.
Click to expand...

Yeah I know, even have a spare to compare with.
Just wonder how possible it is to change the thermostat without removing the fan, or maybe I should get some tools for the fan.
 
Are you using a proper shaped viscous spanner that. Has a Special curv for better fitnent and a bar on the water pump pulley bolt to aid it to stay in position. I normally find tyre lever or small crow bar will suffice
 
Grit Valve said:
Are you using a proper shaped viscous spanner that. Has a Special curv for better fitnent and a bar on the water pump pulley bolt to aid it to stay in position. I normally fine a tyre lever or small crow bar will suffice
Click to expand...

No thats what I mean, should probably get a spanner there fit the viscous.
 
Changed my number plates over. Previous owner had illegal private plates. When doing this, I noticed a very small puddle of brake fluid on the driveway, so went to investigate. I fitted new pipes last week and thought I should look at them again. Could not find any leaks, took off the front O/S wheel arch cover to look at the pipes nearer the resevoir/abs..Yup, small amount of fluid on the underside of the abs. could not see where the leak came from though. Anyway, took the cap off the reservior to check the fluid level, it was right up to the neck. Turned on the ignition to activate the abs, that made the fluid drop. So I hope I have just put in too much fluid.
 
Musicmaker said:
Changed my number plates over. Previous owner had illegal private plates. When doing this, I noticed a very small puddle of brake fluid on the driveway, so went to investigate. I fitted new pipes last week and thought I should look at them again. Could not find any leaks, took off the front O/S wheel arch cover to look at the pipes nearer the resevoir/abs..Yup, small amount of fluid on the underside of the abs. could not see where the leak came from though. Anyway, took the cap off the reservior to check the fluid level, it was right up to the neck. Turned on the ignition to activate the abs, that made the fluid drop. So I hope I have just put in too much fluid.
Click to expand...
Probably a loose union nut , fill up to max with it off should not drop too less than minimum its, better that you get someone to press the brake pedal firmly engine, ignition on then recheck where it was damp you should see where is comming from.

you don't have brake fluid unless there is a leak!!
 
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Took her to training/exercise. At first she really wasn't happy about being left standing for a week as the battery seemed low and struggled to spin.

Do any of you have experience with those solar powered chargers? Do they work at all? Or would I be better getting a proper trickle charger and putting that on when I have to leave her standing?
 
Bix said:
Took her to training/exercise. At first she really wasn't happy about being left standing for a week as the battery seemed low and struggled to spin.

Do any of you have experience with those solar powered chargers? Do they work at all? Or would I be better getting a proper trickle charger and putting that on when I have to leave her standing?
Click to expand...
My diesel is normally only used once a week and the battery is still good if left for 2 weeks. Solar chargers work fine but IMO you need at least 5 watts to be worth while, I use a 12 watt one with a regulator when needed.
 
I replaced my steel brake lines with copper for the rear axle.

Filthy job, but actually wasn't anywhere near as difficult or as time-consuming as I had expected. :)
 
Grit Valve said:
Probably a loose union nut , fill up to max with it off should not drop too less than minimum its, better that you get someone to press the brake pedal firmly engine, ignition on then recheck where it was damp you should see where is comming from.

you don't have brake fluid unless there is a leak!!
Click to expand...

Seems to be OK now:cool:
 
Endeleus said:
I replaced my steel brake lines with copper for the rear axle.

Filthy job, but actually wasn't anywhere near as difficult or as time-consuming as I had expected. :)
Click to expand...

I did the two rear pipes from front to both rear wheels, not difficult but feeding the pipe from front to N/S/R was a right PITA, (should have done it in sections using unions) especially when it's 30 degrees outside :)
 
Changed the rear airbags, first time for me and can tell its really annoying when you think its all done and the second one leaks and after repair decided to pop, now I know, you don't want it to pop.

Old ones wasn't really old, said made in 2009, didn't look too bad either. (OEM)
 

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