Cheers, I'm not planning/expecting to need to drive anywhere, just a what/if scenario
Salisbury Nick
Well-Known Member
Fixed two annoying electrical problems; 1st one - a home made 'improvement' by a previous owner of adding a fan to the gearbox oil cooler rad' that has not worked since I bought the car a couple fo years ago is now fully fixed, new relay installed, traced wires as per @wammers / @Grrrrrr and @Datatek suggestions - flux capacitor is now replaced and fully functioning.
2nd - while doing modifications to the location of the gearbox oil cooler rad' I created an electric fault that led to a dashboard message claiming, instantly, that the gearbox oil was overheating. Traced the wires and found that I had failed to re-connect the sensor properly and once dome that fixed the fault - so that has to be one of the easiest fixes I've ever done.
Now to fix the tailgate on the L322....
2nd - while doing modifications to the location of the gearbox oil cooler rad' I created an electric fault that led to a dashboard message claiming, instantly, that the gearbox oil was overheating. Traced the wires and found that I had failed to re-connect the sensor properly and once dome that fixed the fault - so that has to be one of the easiest fixes I've ever done.
Now to fix the tailgate on the L322....
Isn't it the same as the p38, press once to open the top, press again to open the bottom?
If the spring isn't pushing the button back out then you can't press it in
Salisbury Nick
Well-Known Member
It's not the same - P38 has a round button above the number plate on the back of the gate. L322 has a small discreet rectangular button on the thin section of the end of the gate where it is obscured by the top section when closed. So it is a two button operation, one to open the top section and a different button to open the bottom.
However, the solution was to run a thin bit of plastic strip around the button and it popped up - but it is hinged - so one part remains fixed down the other side pops up very slightly.
10mm Allen key and 13mm spanner on the oil burner. There's just room to bend the fan cowl enough to get the Allen key in and out, slacken the 13mm bolt, turn the Allen key to up the tension on the belt and tighten the bolt again.
No more chirp although only been a few yards up and down the drive.
Tenebreaux
Well-Known Member
Motor on my low range seems fine. Cleaned all the connections and still no go. Reading around seems to suggest the ecu is the next most likely culprit so lashed out a princely ten quid for one on ebay.
Clamjamphrie
Member
Datatek
Well-Known Member
The drive transistors fry if the motor or mechanisms gets stiff. The ECU usually has a smell of burning plastic when that happens. Is the motor correctly timed?
Tenebreaux
Well-Known Member
Hmm. No idea. How do I check?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Details are in RAVE
Tenebreaux
Well-Known Member
Ta. I'll have a look.
I dug an awful lot of soil and clay out from underneath and lost about 5kgs...
How dare you... I wouldn't be seen dead... Are you still allowed to drive diesel 4x4s there anymore?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I see you have discs specially designed to trap mud
They are and I'll add, very good at it KeithI see you have discs specially designed to trap mud
but they are better on normal road surfaces how's thing up your way?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Sunny and very cold this AM plus we now have foodThey are and I'll add, very good at it Keith
. Lucky you did not get caught making an unnecessary journey, €135 on the spot fine is caught
We were only over the field in the forest.Sunny and very cold this AM plus we now have food
Yes, she's been handwashed.....
that is rare
