Drove very gingerly to work hoping inactive susp warning would go off after having new alternator and battery fitted yesterday. Last time it broke down on the way to work so I was very relieved to pass that nasty point of my journey!!!
 
That thought passed through my mind, check the Scottish news for fried driver.:D:D

Well looking at the circuit diagram the power goes into the seat cushion via the thermostat then to the back of the seat then to ground. So there is quite a lot of wire to absorb the current. With just the back of the seat active a lot less wire to get warm so it will get hotter quicker and with no thermostat could get very hot. Bit of a cock up i would think. :D:D
 
Well looking at the circuit diagram the power goes into the seat cushion via the thermostat then to the back of the seat then to ground. So there is quite a lot of wire to absorb the current. With just the back of the seat active a lot less wire to get warm so it will get hotter quicker and with no thermostat could get very hot. Bit of a cock up i would think. :D:D

Seems to be a common 'fix' to do though, it's listed on here and RR quite a few times with no complaints..?
 
Seems to be a common 'fix' to do though, it's listed on here and RR quite a few times with no complaints..?

No complaints because they are all burnt to death. Get the seat swab element fixed , breaks are usually at the front or rear, points of max pressure/wear.:)
 
No complaints because they are all burnt to death. Get the seat swab element fixed , breaks are usually at the front or rear, points of max pressure/wear.:)

Yeah, that's what I was doing but I couldn't dismantle the seat - that's the problem.
 
Seems to be a common 'fix' to do though, it's listed on here and RR quite a few times with no complaints..?

Ok carry on. Can only give advice you don't have to listen to it. And they are not common fixes they are common bodges.
 
I think the back element and the seat element are in parallel as some cars only have the seat heater, mine included. This being the case, having just the seat element connected would not pose a problem.
 
I think the back element and the seat element are in parallel as some cars only have the seat heater, mine included. This being the case, having just the seat element connected would not pose a problem.

Does that mean that if one element fails then the other will continue to work? When my seat element failed the back element lost power.
 
Does that mean that if one element fails then the other will continue to work? When my seat element failed the back element lost power.
I honestly do not know, however if the break is where mine broke, it would have disabled the back element if it had been fitted whether it was wired in series or parallel. I don't like heated seats so just eliminated it to make it electrically safe.
 
Replaced oil cooler on L322 (after replacing engine rad about 2 weeks ago) as was still getting occasional cooling strategy. Plastic release collar on bayonet broke and couldn't get collar off so cut pipe and extended with ally pipe off old cooler. Now a bit paranoid not connected properly as could only push pipe on 10mm but have used jubilee clips. Big test next weekend towing tin tent 180 miles.
 
Replaced the blown driver units in the Harmon Kardon sub bass unit with uprated drivers.

Hopefully the wife won't blow these ones up with her bloody dance music.
 
Now do the rears if you haven't already done them:D
Just done them my Friend, :p easy job:D think the back ones are quicker than the fronts to do prob took an hour and a twenty in all to do all four, the old ones are 14 years old and done 90k so were well past there best.:D:D
 
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