Not mine I'm pleased to say but just seen the owner of our local supermarket on the road in his RR Sport, looked like it was on stilts, suspension fault or is it possible to drive at speed at wade height?
Doubt its coils, even i draw the line at some things
 
Iv spent last couple of hours getting me head around the MOST system, got the orange flashing light on infotainment screen and LR logo, audio went off the other day and iv pulled the optic cable from Bluetooth unit and one of the other east access modules with no light inside, but reading about it if there’s a faulty module the MOST master shuts the optic system down, hence no lights. All fuses and relays are good. Going to have another look Wednesday morning.
 
Iv spent last couple of hours getting me head around the MOST system, got the orange flashing light on infotainment screen and LR logo, audio went off the other day and iv pulled the optic cable from Bluetooth unit and one of the other east access modules with no light inside, but reading about it if there’s a faulty module the MOST master shuts the optic system down, hence no lights. All fuses and relays are good. Going to have another look Wednesday morning.
It's a loop so in and out of all the modules, if you disconnect the fibre connection you have to put a loop back connector in to send the signal on to the next unit. You will need to go through the modules one at a time.

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It's a loop so in and out of all the modules, if you disconnect the fibre connection you have to put a loop back connector in to send the signal on to the next unit. You will need to go through the modules one at a time.

View attachment 303133
Ordered some last night, should be here today or tomorrow, only thing that concerns me is even with a knackered module when optics are unplugged one should be lit up mine arnt, unless what I read is correct and that in the event of a module fault the system gets gets shut down.
Either way I’ll know more probably tomorrow when I have the time to take the modules out.
 
Need to calibrate my EAS at some point this week. Talk of self manufacturing dowels re the .pdf in the ‘how to’ section. Without climbing underneath in this weather…is the dowel diameter 30mm to sit in the bump stop carrier, and does it need to be hardwood or will similar achieve the aims? I have some 30mm tree stakes kicking about :vb-elf:
 
Need to calibrate my EAS at some point this week. Talk of self manufacturing dowels re the .pdf in the ‘how to’ section. Without climbing underneath in this weather…is the dowel diameter 30mm to sit in the bump stop carrier, and does it need to be hardwood or will similar achieve the aims? I have some 30mm tree stakes kicking about :vb-elf:
Much easier to use a measuring stick
 
Much easier to use a measuring stick
Cheers @Datatek the block approach seems simple enough, raise the car and sit it on the blocks, record and move on…how does the tape approach work? If I drop the height is still sits too high even in access mode. I suspected a dodgy height sensor, but following the brake repair the EAS is all over the place and the body to wheel position looks ridiculous.
 
Cheers @Datatek the block approach seems simple enough, raise the car and sit it on the blocks, record and move on…how does the tape approach work? If I drop the height is still sits too high even in access mode. I suspected a dodgy height sensor, but following the brake repair the EAS is all over the place and the body to wheel position looks ridiculous.

With blocks, you have to raise the car and crawl under to get the blocks in, then lower onto the blocks, raise & crawl again to get the blocks out, then you have to repeat the rigmarole for each of the 4 heights.
I have an alloy measuring stick that stands on the floor with the wheel centre marked and each height to the wheel arch marked. True you have to go round a couple of times for each height as adjusting one corner affects all the others but with the RSW software it's a pretty quick job with no crawling.
 
With blocks, you have to raise the car and crawl under to get the blocks in, then lower onto the blocks, raise & crawl again to get the blocks out, then you have to repeat the rigmarole for each of the 4 heights.
I have an alloy measuring stick that stands on the floor with the wheel centre marked and each height to the wheel arch marked. True you have to go round a couple of times for each height as adjusting one corner affects all the others but with the RSW software it's a pretty quick job with no crawling.
Does RSW allow you to lower the suspension independently of the presets? I have the Nano. If I can’t get the suspension to lower the body to the correct height the tape measure approach isn’t an option in this case and the block approach is my only option
 
Does RSW allow you to lower the suspension independently of the presets? I have the Nano. If I can’t get the suspension to lower the body to the correct height the tape measure approach isn’t an option in this case and the block approach is my only option
You can raise or lower each corner with the RSW software regardless of the preset heights. That is why I don't have the EAS module on my Faultmate.
 
Ordered some last night, should be here today or tomorrow, only thing that concerns me is even with a knackered module when optics are unplugged one should be lit up mine arnt, unless what I read is correct and that in the event of a module fault the system gets gets shut down.
Either way I’ll know more probably tomorrow when I have the time to take the modules out.
The light goes through each module in turn so if one is faulty before the one you disconnect chances are you won't get it.
This thread is for the same issue although a later car ( https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/the-dreaded-l322-stereo-issues.382792/ ) but I think the diagram I posted at #11 is for an earlier model.
Good luck.
 
So next question - where can I get a data cable?
They are on Ebay but I can probably make you one although you may be stung for customs duty these days. I'll have a look later to see if I still have connectors in stock.

A 2 metre EAS cable for the P38 allowing you to work outside the car, necessary when calibrating the heights, together with a CD containing the EAS software, EAS PDF, my Airbag Replacement Guide and a copy of RAVE covering P38, Defender and early L322 is £13.50 plus £11.50 P&P total £25.00, you can pay by cheque or bank transfer, I no longer accept Paypal, they ripped me off once too often.

It needs a Windows laptop and if the laptop does not have a serial port you will also need to buy a USB to RS232 serial adaptor, these can be found for £10 or less on Ebay. Make sure you get one with a fullRS232 (FTDI) implementation and the correct drivers for your version of Windows and load the correct driver BEFORE you plug in the adaptor.

The software reads and clears all EAS faults, allows you to send the carto all the different heights for calibration, see the actual height sensor readings, force the compressor to operate and de pressurise all circuits.
 
Had my insurance renewal come through, near had a heart attack, 10x what it was last year,
Even shopping about its over double last years figures
Il have to phone about and argue with them 7 years ncd and nothings changed,
I am not paying £1000 a year for private car insurance
 
Removed the Fuel rail and injectors from my 4.2s/c RRS - now just looking at creating a Heath-Robinson injector test rig
 
Had my insurance renewal come through, near had a heart attack, 10x what it was last year,
Even shopping about its over double last years figures
Il have to phone about and argue with them 7 years ncd and nothings changed,
I am not paying £1000 a year for private car insurance
There is no reason for this? Are they highly desirable, likely to cause more damage in an accident, expensive to replace, super fast. Enthusiast owners tend to cherish cars. Dunt make sense such an increase.
 
There is no reason for this? Are they highly desirable, likely to cause more damage in an accident, expensive to replace, super fast. Enthusiast owners tend to cherish cars. Dunt make sense such an increase.
Nope i tried the range rover sport 3.0tdv6 and my old td6 they're the same price give or take, yet me bmws are such and such the same as last years prices,
No change in my situation or address apart from another years no claims bonus 🙄
 

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