Got a creaking balljoint on the front passanger side :mad: actually getting fed up with this thing this year now.
An electronic issue
The a break down
and now this.
Okay im over reacting but it was all oem landrover supplied balljoints and both pairs of front arms and inner and outer track rods fitted at in june 2020 at 145k,
its only on 188k now :(
 
Wow
Got a creaking balljoint on the front passanger side :mad: actually getting fed up with this thing this year now.
An electronic issue
The a break down
and now this.
Okay im over reacting but it was all oem landrover supplied balljoints and both pairs of front arms and inner and outer track rods fitted at in june 2020 at 145k,
its only on 188k now :(
Wow, 43.000mls of gutter bashing. The kirbside suspension always goes first, when you say oem do you mean LR genuine or equivalent? Some parts marked as oem are nowhere near. Most genuine stuff will do 10-15yrs and some aftermarket oem won't do 2... The word oem on a label means bugger all nowadays. Companies to avoid are moog, bolk and anything from autodoc UK... Utter shïte.
 
Saaaaaay, hypothetically someone broke into her husbands tool chest to scrub off all the rust what would she use to regrease them all after they're clean and fully dry...?

Should you be talking about scrubbing your husbands tool in a public forum:p:eek::eek:.

If my "hypothetical" wife was that concerned about it she would buy me more that wouldnt rust:p:D.

Any light oil you can find will do, wipe them over with a rag and 3in1 or maybe duck oil or similar

If you are unsure of what this looks like, you could always use some of the veggy/sunflower oil from the kitchen:p:p:p.

I am out of here with me tin hat:D:D

J
 
Took the "mud ball" to collect the L322, New oil cooler and oil line, both prone to leaking + other bits;). He said he was sorry he hadn't cleaned the car as his cleaning machine was broked:D.
I consider the 290 quid labour a good deal. We get 20% discount on labour and 10% on parts, cos we are good customers:confused: Oh we also get a range rover recovery cover from them free;). Never had to use it yet:D.
So although we do use the stealer for most of the work on the L322 we consider the service we get as good value:). Although I could source some parts cheaper, sometimes its not worth the hassle to be honest:).

So we are back to a full flavour variety of LRs at home:).

J
 
Wow

Wow, 43.000mls of gutter bashing. The kirbside suspension always goes first, when you say oem do you mean LR genuine or equivalent? Some parts marked as oem are nowhere near. Most genuine stuff will do 10-15yrs and some aftermarket oem won't do 2... The word oem on a label means bugger all nowadays. Companies to avoid are moog, bolk and anything from autodoc UK... Utter shïte.
Genuine L-R as in ordered through landrover themselves,
 
Given I'm constantly removing air from the coolant i can only think the engine must be fooooked :(
I had your pain yesterday Kermit. After fitting the new water pump and antifreeze, I'd say it took over an hour before it reached a state where I startrd to breathe easily again and everything circulated properly without releasing more air bubbles. He raised the expansion tank as high as the hoses allowed and also pressurised the system with a manual pump "thingy" a couple of times. He said trust me, it'll be fine...EVENTUALLY! He was correct. Hope you get yours sorted soon matey!
 
I had your pain yesterday Kermit. After fitting the new water pump and antifreeze, I'd say it took over an hour before it reached a state where I startrd to breathe easily again and everything circulated properly without releasing more air bubbles. He raised the expansion tank as high as the hoses allowed and also pressurised the system with a manual pump "thingy" a couple of times. He said trust me, it'll be fine...EVENTUALLY! He was correct. Hope you get yours sorted soon matey!
Really hope so! But i feel I've let more air out than there is coolant in it
 
Really hope so! But i feel I've let more air out than there is coolant in it
Take the overflow pipe off the radiator, fill the header tank then squeeze the top hose and plug the overflow with a finger when releasing the hose so it sucks coolant in and blows air out when you squeeze the hose. Keep doing that until coolant comes out of the overflow (it'll take a while and you'll need to top the header up a few times). Then put the pipe back on and carry on only this time plug the hole in the top of the header where the jet of coolant comes back into the header. Eventually, you'll no longer be able to hear bubbles in the system and at that point you know you've got the air out.

I do it with the engine off. ;)
 
Take the overflow pipe off the radiator, fill the header tank then squeeze the top hose and plug the overflow with a finger when releasing the hose so it sucks coolant in and blows air out when you squeeze the hose. Keep doing that until coolant comes out of the overflow (it'll take a while and you'll need to top the header up a few times). Then put the pipe back on and carry on only this time plug the hole in the top of the header where the jet of coolant comes back into the header. Eventually, you'll no longer be able to hear bubbles in the system and at that point you know you've got the air out.

I do it with the engine off. ;)
Yeh that's my trick.. but normally take the pipe off, blow it clear, then move to step 2
 

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