Mines a bit damp near side floor and up at headlining but it’s all being stripped out this week I hope so will put the dehumidifier in it for a day dry it out and try cure it probably the sunroof drained well here’s hoping
 
IMG_20210206_145934.jpg
So today I finally got around to finishing my range rover 2.7tdv6 which had cambelt tensioner failure and I got fully up and running without having to do a major strip down!! No bent valves just top end damage which I took a gamble on it and its paid off!! So glad to have got it all cleaned up and new wheels fitted finally!!
 
Gave up trying to fix the sunroof with the ebay 3D printed parts. The tolerances are just too far out. Not only do they need filing down to fit in the sunroof rails and need a hole to be deepened to take one of the pins, the grooves are just too tight (impossible to file out to size, or at least I can't do it) and the bits just don't slide around and click into place as they should.

Ah nuts.... I'll post a pic.

Maybe you'll have better luck with yours, maybe they've gotten better (I bought mine a while ago, before my engine died and had to be replaced, so that's easily 2 years) or maybe I just bought the wrong kit and others are better. Either way, mine's going into the recycle bin and I'll have to start over with either a genuine part or find a scrap one.

Yeesh..... between this and the ongoing saga of the driver board, it looks like HMS Unfixable's return to the highways will be delayed.

Sunroof Rail1.jpg
Sunroof2.jpg
Sunroof 3.jpg
 
pete12345 said:
Glued down the the bit of new carpet I brought that had come a drift on the boot lifting panel everyone indoors is high now evostick oh well may help the missus sleep better why she’s getting over her operation
Click to expand...
How's she doing Pete? Tell her not to overdo it when she feels better. ;)
 
She getting there slight set back may have infection but on antibiotics now done my good deed for the day lent jpor my ball joint removal kit good luck with that hope poor bloke got a garage doing it in this weather
 
Got one cover of for you Alan but not had chance to post it yet but will try get other one off and send it as well had to wait for another tool to arrive because them seat bolts are a poxy size got them now so be easier
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    428.7 KB · Views: 128
DarthDude said:
Gave up trying to fix the sunroof with the ebay 3D printed parts. The tolerances are just too far out. Not only do they need filing down to fit in the sunroof rails and need a hole to be deepened to take one of the pins, the grooves are just too tight (impossible to file out to size, or at least I can't do it) and the bits just don't slide around and click into place as they should.

Ah nuts.... I'll post a pic.

Maybe you'll have better luck with yours, maybe they've gotten better (I bought mine a while ago, before my engine died and had to be replaced, so that's easily 2 years) or maybe I just bought the wrong kit and others are better. Either way, mine's going into the recycle bin and I'll have to start over with either a genuine part or find a scrap one.

Yeesh..... between this and the ongoing saga of the driver board, it looks like HMS Unfixable's return to the highways will be delayed.

View attachment 230314 View attachment 230315 View attachment 230316
Click to expand...
3D printing is fun for hobbies, but unless you have high end, stupendously expensive printers, the results will always be a bit of a guess for home gamers. One of the guys I worked with in Hounslow needed 11 attempts at making a bit of trim for his STI because the shrinkage was a little unpredictable. Which would've been fine, but each print was about 12 hours. The amount he spent on material, would've been cheaper to buy the part OEM.
 
23108924 said:
In the life of Bix....
Have you ever had a crowd of angry marines surround your car because water got in and set the horn off at 8am for 10 minutes?
No? Me either....:p
@Bix
Click to expand...
I wish it was 10 minutes. The horn was smoking by the time I got back to it :oops:
 
Bix said:
3D printing is fun for hobbies, but unless you have high end, stupendously expensive printers, the results will always be a bit of a guess for home gamers. One of the guys I worked with in Hounslow needed 11 attempts at making a bit of trim for his STI because the shrinkage was a little unpredictable. Which would've been fine, but each print was about 12 hours. The amount he spent on material, would've been cheaper to buy the part OEM.
Click to expand...
Yeesh.... just as I was about to go invest in one. Guess I'll wait a while longer.
 
pete12345 said:
Got one cover of for you Alan but not had chance to post it yet but will try get other one off and send it as well had to wait for another tool to arrive because them seat bolts are a poxy size got them now so be easier
Click to expand...
Thanks Pete, my new carbon fibre heating mats arrived last week so I'm all prepared for the job.;):D
 
DarthDude said:
Gave up trying to fix the sunroof with the ebay 3D printed parts. The tolerances are just too far out. Not only do they need filing down to fit in the sunroof rails and need a hole to be deepened to take one of the pins, the grooves are just too tight (impossible to file out to size, or at least I can't do it) and the bits just don't slide around and click into place as they should.

Ah nuts.... I'll post a pic.

Maybe you'll have better luck with yours, maybe they've gotten better (I bought mine a while ago, before my engine died and had to be replaced, so that's easily 2 years) or maybe I just bought the wrong kit and others are better. Either way, mine's going into the recycle bin and I'll have to start over with either a genuine part or find a scrap one.

Yeesh..... between this and the ongoing saga of the driver board, it looks like HMS Unfixable's return to the highways will be delayed.

View attachment 230314 View attachment 230315 View attachment 230316
Click to expand...
I think the trouble is the 3d parts are the wrong plastic as well, and its been discussed before they are too brittle
 
Dopey said:
I think the trouble is the 3d parts are the wrong plastic as well, and its been discussed before they are too brittle
Click to expand...
Depends entirely on the filament you're using. PLA is fine for stuff that doesn't stress too much, doesn't take make heat etc. You then get in to ABS for more structural work and that has challenges (like maintaining temperature during print). 3d printing at home is good and will work most of the time - it's all trial and error.
 
Dopey said:
I think the trouble is the 3d parts are the wrong plastic as well, and its been discussed before they are too brittle
Click to expand...
Well I never got that far, unfortunately. For what it's worth, it seemed pretty darned solid when I was working on it. It COULD just be that whoever had them before didn't file them down so they slid easily within the rails. You CAN kinda sorta force them in, right out of the box... but it's a real tight fit and I wouldn't be surprised if someone who just rammed it in had them snap under the strain when the motor is pulling or pushing on it, after all, it's just that one little grooved bit where the cable attaches to that's taking all the strain.

Anyhoo- I guess the consensus is that these are not recommended, unless you got a good file/sharpening stone (which is what I used), a drill to deepen the hole for the pin and a router to widen and correct the groove.

Sunroof4.jpg
 
Jpor will be on forum through the week he doin his ball joints was asking me but told what little advice I could and explained all my knowledge and help comes from on here
 
pete12345 said:
Jpor will be on forum through the week he doin his ball joints was asking me but told what little advice I could and explained all my knowledge and help comes from on here A blow torch on the yoke helps to get them out and if he puts the new ones in the freezer at least overnight makes it easier to press them back in. CV grease is recommended on the screw thread of the press.
Click to expand...
 
  • Like
Reactions: kds
Rnicholson90 said:
View attachment 230303 So today I finally got around to finishing my range rover 2.7tdv6 which had cambelt tensioner failure and I got fully up and running without having to do a major strip down!! No bent valves just top end damage which I took a gamble on it and its paid off!! So glad to have got it all cleaned up and new wheels fitted finally!!
Click to expand...
Looks very tidy example does that.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Range Rover L322 - not turning over
Replies
12
Views
2K
gold rover
gold rover
B
L320 range rover sport 3.0 tdv6 loosing power steering fluid
Replies
3
Views
549
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
F
1980 Range Rover 2 door v8 to 300tdi
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
T
Non start
Replies
3
Views
719
Datatek
Datatek
T
Fan Clutch??
Replies
14
Views
807
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr