gotmine form fleabay, Nation Clutch, after researching cost i didnt want o be doing this job again any time soon, they seems to have an ok rep, just not generally avaliable to the public, more a trade part.

linky to seller on fleabay

kit had bearing,plate and cover, got the fork seperatly
 
See thats why I was thinking Borg and Beck, ok its £20 more but they're a good make!


Having said that though the Panther ones have a 2 year or 20k warranty
 
The Borg ?

Cool well they're £40 cheaper than the one tim posted too :) so looking like they'll be the mid ground haha
 
I put a borg and beck one in just over a year ago, clutch wasn't actually knackered but I bust the clutch fork and thought since I was paying for all that labour I may as well replace the clutch while they were in there.

So if you're putting a clutch in maybe put a heavy duty clutch fork in too so you don't end up spending a fortune to fit a bit that cost about a tenner.
 
HD fork is just an extra piece of steel welded over the back so can do that myself, I'm doing the change so no labour anyway :p
 
you know most of it Doc but to be totally sure: Do the flywheel, fork, release bearing while your in there as well.

I just did all mine, there are some benefits of a TD5 like coming standard with a cast iron clutch fork. :D

As you can weld, its definitely worth tabbing a bit of steel on the back of a clutch fork to make it stronger.
 
BIG_GINGA_BEARD said:
you know most of it Doc but to be totally sure: Do the flywheel, fork, release bearing while your in there as well.

I just did all mine, there are some benefits of a TD5 like coming standard with a cast iron clutch fork. :D

As you can weld, its definitely worth tabbing a bit of steel on the back of a clutch fork to make it stronger.
Click to expand...

Flywheel is good :) its a solid SD1 bugger and looks good so no need to change it, spur gear is still good too

Its a new gearbox, full recon from AW so need a release bearing, fork, plate and cover. It came with a slave in it :)

Will defo put a tab on the fork to improve it !
 
I changed the clutch in our 1991 Discovery at 127,000 miles, the first change it had had, because the folk pushed through at the ball pivot in the usual manner. In those days the reinforcement idea was not common and I fitted a standard folk, but greased the pivot point well.
At 230,000 miles I decided to change the clutch as a precaution, as I did not want to wait until the folk broke again at an inconvenient time. I found however I was wasting my time, as the folk was hardly marked where it moved on the pivot, and the clutch would have been sound for many more miles.
Does this mean that the folks fail at around 100,000 miles not because the design is unsound, but because Land Rover do not lubricate them at manufacture, and if they had of done they would have lasted much longer?
 
i thought the same as you with ****part.... release bearings making a noise after 6 months, gonna have to do it soon and i'll be binning the old (new) clutch for a borg 130 jobby i think!
 
A customer asked what the failure rate of Borg & Beck clutches were like the other day so I checked through our records. We have supplied and fitted 168 Borg & Beck clutches and not had one problem or one return.
However we have fitted 3 blue box clutches and had to replace 2 of them under warranty.

Don't forget to replace the bronze spigot bush in the rear of the crankshaft while your in there. Another common cause of noise for a £1 part.
 
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