Naf623

Active Member
Plan to fit new mud shields this week, and I'm assuming the bolts will be shot (assuming I can even get them out). What will I need by way of replacements?

While at it, I'll be needing to remove the callipers and discs to get at them, right? Anything there I should be replacing once it's been removed, and can't be reused?
 
Plan to fit new mud shields this week, and I'm assuming the bolts will be shot (assuming I can even get them out). What will I need by way of replacements?

While at it, I'll be needing to remove the callipers and discs to get at them, right? Anything there I should be replacing once it's been removed, and can't be reused?
You should be able to use all the bolts on the caliper set up again…..depending on their condition once removed !! You need to use a 12 point socket on them. As for the mud shields, the bolts will probably shear off removing them, and if it was mine I wouldn’t replace them.
 
I replaced mine as well, they were fubared.... Make sure you dip them in a bit of anti seize when you put them back in. Will give the next guy who takes them off an east time....
 
Plan to fit new mud shields this week, and I'm assuming the bolts will be shot (assuming I can even get them out). What will I need by way of replacements?

While at it, I'll be needing to remove the callipers and discs to get at them, right? Anything there I should be replacing once it's been removed, and can't be reused?
Just get rid of them. They don't do anything useful. They do trap stones, which make a horrible noise rubbing against the disc.
 
M6x12mm flanged head bolts, although the guys are right, they don't really do anything except trap stones..


or

 
M6x12mm flanged head bolts, although the guys are right, they don't really do anything except trap stones..


or

Them flanged bolts are the nuts, the ones with the teeth are even better.
 
Use a bit of heat on the mud sheild bolts as they'll no doubt have had locktite on if factory
 
I don't have a torch, would a heat gun achieve enough?
No. In an ideal world an Oxy Acetylene gas torch is the tool for the job, but that’s not possible for most of us at home. I got a Rothenberger torch years ago I use and it’s good, but the flame is quite large so care is needed when using. As I’ve said previously. I don’t think these merit the work and expense to replace them. It won’t make any difference not having them.
 
Plan to fit new mud shields this week, and I'm assuming the bolts will be shot (assuming I can even get them out). What will I need by way of replacements?

While at it, I'll be needing to remove the callipers and discs to get at them, right? Anything there I should be replacing once it's been removed, and can't be reused?
As said heat on them if seized (they also have thread lock on them).I used a blow torch as that's all I had & single hex socket or spanner & luckily fr. & rr's all came out. I had mine blasted & I then painted them & re fitted with stainless steel bolts, best of luck.
 

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No. In an ideal world an Oxy Acetylene gas torch is the tool for the job, but that’s not possible for most of us at home. I got a Rothenberger torch years ago I use and it’s good, but the flame is quite large so care is needed when using. As I’ve said previously. I don’t think these merit the work and expense to replace them. It won’t make any difference not having them.
+1 on Rothenberger
Irwins might also help
New besties.JPG
 
Give the bolts a smack head on with a hammer, to loosen the rust grip... Got that tip from Mike, Britannic Restorations. Works a treat.

I wouldnt be without a full set of irwins extractors. Got me outa' the sh1t many times....
 

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