MrJC

MrJC

Well-Known Member
I have the seats out of my 1994 Defender 90 and removed the 3 seat box hatches for cleaning and painting. I looked down the centre one and saw these wires just as they are.... sitting happily.
I haven't a clue what they are... I don't want to mess with them.
Anyone any ideas what they could be? Looks like the 2 with black sockets on clip together... but I don't want to cause a fire!:confused:
 

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dan off road 90 said:
do your reverse lights work?
Click to expand...
Valid point :eek: I will check when I go visit her later as I have her in bits (see pics on profile). My gear box looks different to 'Busterbus' in his pics of how to fix reversing light.... no obvious sensor/switch.
 
There's absolutely no reason why they should have been unclipped for under sealing. In fact, they should have been left well in place, so that any 'waxoyl' that did come into contact with the connections, would prevent any moisture / water from penetrating and corroding the connections. That said, I don't know whether or not the gearbox and transfer box should be undersealed or not for heat and fire related purposes, but I don't see why not. A garage will usually just steam clean the chassis. Quickly scrape any loose ****e off the rails, cross members, rear tub and arches and then spray where they can reach, usually not getting anywhere near the top side of the gearbox!

Back to the wires! The reverse light switch isn't visible in your photo (that I can see :confused: ). It should be screwed into that rather fat looking flange just to the left of where the speedo cable leaves the tranny box. It might pay you to source and then fit one before the MOT! They're dirt cheap and it's an easy peasy job ;)

-Pos
 
Its not on the official list however - a lot of MOTers work with the, "if the light is fitted it must work" approach.
 
Reverse light is NOT testable or failable. :)

And the reverse light switch is higher than what is visible in that picture.

Check those wires, the look a bit suspicious to me. Trace where they go.
 
boydy1989 said:
Reverse light is NOT testable or failable. :)

And the reverse light switch is higher than what is visible in that picture.

Check those wires, the look a bit suspicious to me. Trace where they go.
Click to expand...
I am very new to this:) not used a spanner for 33 years but keen as I can be.
I took the cover off the reversing light today as I am replacing it with a new one as part of my refurb. Ha... no bulb, or anything else except for 2 loose bare wires.
Decided to take it off...mmmmmm. Okay Haynes manual opened... 'reach behind the lamp and unscrew the 2 nuts retaining the lamp' Mr Haynes is havin a laugh.:rolleyes: An hour later after drilling and filing lamp off (4 minutes)and screws with nuts attached out(56 minutes).
I need an auto electrician to wire up the new Wipac driving lamps so I will get him to check the conection and suspicious wires while he is at it.
I know when to say stop the bus :doh: I don't play with women madder than myself or electrics... both can bite your ass:D
Thank you all for listening to my insignificant dramas :D
 
MrJC said:
...I need an auto electrician to wire up the new Wipac driving lamps so I will get him to check the conection and suspicious wires while he is at it.
I know when to say stop the bus :doh: I don't play with women madder than myself or electrics... both can bite your ass:D...
Click to expand...

Car electrics aren't that difficult (although I can understand your reluctance -- I feel the same way about brakes). There's another thread running at present about fitting spots (see here) -- see my comment, which includes a link to an external site describing how to do it.
 
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