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Karls

Active Member
Removed my sump today (300 tdi) and found these bits in it :(
Can anyone see what they are? I think some of it is the valve stem caps as looking under the rocker cover, three seem to be missing but I'm not sure what the long tapered end springs are from or the rubber like orange'ish seals.

Help!
 

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Oil seal garter springs possibly from valve guide seals and valve lash caps, the lash caps break all the time
 
lynall said:
Oil seal garter springs possibly from valve guide seals and valve lash caps, the lash caps break all the time
Click to expand...

Thanks and bugger it at the same time. I know I can do the caps without taking the head off but the valve stem seals?
 
Yup, looks like bits of spring off a seal, plus bits of valve cap. But there are a few other items there that look a bit strange. There's a thing that looks like a carburettor needle, for example.
 
Karls said:
Thanks and bugger it at the same time. I know I can do the caps without taking the head off but the valve stem seals?
Click to expand...

How long have they been in there? it may be that the problem has been fixed ages ago but the debris that ended up in the sump just got left. Worth looking at the tops of the valve stems carefully to see if anybody is missing a cap.
 
Karls said:
Thanks and bugger it at the same time. I know I can do the caps without taking the head off but the valve stem seals?
Click to expand...

Yes, you can. i've done it many times on 2.25s and 2.5Ds and while you need a torque wrench to re-torque the head bolts removed you can do it. You're not taking all the head bolts out, so things will stay in place.

ajr
 
Brown said:
Yup, looks like bits of spring off a seal, plus bits of valve cap. But there are a few other items there that look a bit strange. There's a thing that looks like a carburettor needle, for example.
Click to expand...

The thing that looks like a carb needle is a spring. It's definitely parts of the valve stem oil seals and caps.
 
Brown said:
How long have they been in there? it may be that the problem has been fixed ages ago but the debris that ended up in the sump just got left. Worth looking at the tops of the valve stems carefully to see if anybody is missing a cap.
Click to expand...

Yeah absolutely. I thought this myself. I took off the valve cover and I can see that 2-3 caps are missing. I can do those without removing the head though. But I've got to assume that oil seals will need doing as well.
 
mrchurchill109 said:
Yes, you can. i've done it many times on 2.25s and 2.5Ds and while you need a torque wrench to re-torque the head bolts removed you can do it. You're not taking all the head bolts out, so things will stay in place.

ajr
Click to expand...

How much of a fiddly job is it? I've currently got clear access to the engine as body is stripped to chassis only. Is it simpler for me to take the head off?
 
Re: Fiddly job:

Not a nightmare, really.

The trick is reatining the valves while changing the seals and that is usually done with either air pressure or a length of sash cord stuffed into the cylinder thru a sparkplug hole or a heater plug port.

i can get thru replacing the seals on one of my engines in 2-3 hours start to finish including running it up to temp to reset the valve clearances.

If the engine hasn;t beeen decoked for a long time then pullling the head, stripping and cleaning it up/regrinding the valves might not be a bad thing. Your call, really.

For a tutorial:

Valve seal replacement tutorial
 
Not used either of that type, but second one looks quite nifty and looks like it may lock into the closed position giving you full control of the spring.
Im not sure if there is enough room down the sides of the spring to get the tool jaws down there and even if you can how do you get the end under the bottom of the spring?
With body off, head removal will be a doddle.
 
Just whip the head off. There really is nothing to it. Set aside a full day and do the job properly. I would personally get the head skimmed while I'm at it.
 
Karls said:
Which spring compressor would you recommend. This:
Sealey Adjustable Lever Engine Valve Spring Compressor OHV/OHC Twin-Cam VS168 | eBay

Or this:
VS160 SEALEY VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR OHV BRAND NEW SEALEY TOOL! | eBay
Click to expand...

The one I have is like the latter, but smaller and screw-activated rather than a lever type.

You just engage the jaws in the coils of the spring (jaws are offset in length for that reason) and lock the spring in the compressed position. pushing down on the spring then loosens the keepers so they can be removed with needlenose pliers or the like.

Alan
 
1. Take the head off while you have easy access. It's a good chance to check the valves etc. I would replace the valve springs and any valves that looked suspect as well.
2. buy a big/strong valve compressor. Car ones are a bit weak, and these are big springs.
 
Hmm...still pondering. I've ordered the tool for doing it with the head on but tempted to go for it and take the head off. Will have another look tomorrow and ponder some more :)

Thanks for all your replies so far guys.
 
lynall said:
Oil seal garter springs possibly from valve guide seals and valve lash caps, the lash caps break all the time
Click to expand...

Not if he gets good ones (not LR genuine interestingly) and keeps his clearances in check.

Get ones from Turner engineering, when they arrive try to cut the edge with a hacksaw (watch your fingers) it won't make a mark, that's how they should be. Get a LR genuine and it will cut like butter - not good.
 
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