Hi

Thought I'd venture into the dark zone!!! I have a friend who's got a 2013 freelander n he's starting to worry about faults on it, when he first bought it the high level brake light leaked n now he has had to have a back door switch replaced and the switch that controls it in the front replaced! What he wants to know is are there any more 'common' faults he should know about? He's only had the car 12 months, he also doesn't use computers so asked if I could find out (cos I have a land rover lol)
Your help much appreciated

Mandy

lcbandit said:

Hi

Thought I'd venture into the dark zone!!! I have a friend who's got a 2013 freelander n he's starting to worry about faults on it,

Click to expand...

Isnt that what they all say?

Don't be ashamed, you can tell us its you!

Yes, come on Mandy, Freelander members are open and helpful, to this end out first priority is to you and your emotional faults and weaknesses.

We need you to be able to stand from your chair and proudly proclaim you are an owner, or want to be an owner, of a Freelander.

Only once your own faults are fixed, can we then move on to help with your Freelander.

Rear high level light leak is common and will go again, poor design as it's just a foam seal. Rear door lock actuators are common, strangely it seems to be driver side rear that fails the most.

As it's a 2013 the rear diff should be OK as it was modified from late 2009, was a common failure point.

Front wheel bearings will go but are not too expensive.

Other than that they're well screwed together and generally reliable.

Fairly sure leak can be abated with silicon!

Sorry folks but I haven't gone 'over' still got the 90 n my bm n my bikes n will stay that way for a looong time appreciate the help so far, think he did say the light has been fixed twice now and yes it was his rear drivers door too! I will pass on that it's not gonna hopefully fail anymore on him so he doesn't get rid! Think it was the fact it's only done 46k so far n wasn't expecting large bills (I think he said cost him £200 plus for door then another £100 for switch! Leak done under warranty ) on a relatively new vehicle, did tell him that all landys leak though

freelance said:

Fairly sure leak can be abated with silicon!

Click to expand...

The previous owner of mine tried that, it still leaked and was a pain to get out as I had to cut the silicone away to get it out. Replacement was about £45 and to 10 minutes to fit once I'd extracted the old one. Seems they are good for about 2 years

S1monm said:

The previous owner of mine tried that, it still leaked and was a pain to get out as I had to cut the silicone away to get it out. Replacement was about £45 and to 10 minutes to fit once I'd extracted the old one. Seems they are good for about 2 years

Click to expand...

Did my Disco ones with Sikaflex. They don't leak!

Turboman said:

Did my Disco ones with Sikaflex. They don't leak!

Click to expand...

Not your average silicone though

Turboman said:

Did my Disco ones with Sikaflex. They don't leak!

Click to expand...

lol, if you used 295 I want to be there when you try to remove it

If there is room for a gasket of sorts, then you can do the following - silicone or sika - which ever - we used this method on 'yotts'
If you can remove and lay the part down it is easier and this method works ok -
place clingfilm over one part, apply silicone - place cling film over the top - lightly assemble but do not screw or fix it tightly - only lightly as silicone tends to shrink a little - (so does sika).
When it has gone 'orf' - remove parts, remove cling film and then proudly admire your new super duper gasket before tightening it down. - Sorted.

If you cannot lay the part down, then lightly coat one surface with a tiny bit of vaseline (all respectable freelander owners have some in the glove box next to the XXL condoms and tongs (KY usually)).
Add silicone to jointing area (sika is good here as it is more viscous), then as above - cover with clingfilm - assemble other part and lightly fix together (allow about 1mm of 'gap' compared to how it is normally fully tightened.
Leave to go 'orf' again and then dismantle, remove clingfilm and reassemble tightening down as normal.

Joe_H said:

lol, if you used 295 I want to be there when you try to remove it

Click to expand...

Why would I want to remove it? With a few cherished exceptions, vehicles rarely survive my ownership. Scrappie can sort en out when I am finished with it!

I wouldn't remove it anyway, sunroofs are the work of the devil. Makes no sense, perfectly good piece of steel keeping the rain off you, then cut a big hole innit!

Doubt if it was a Cornishman dreamed up that idea.