if you can replace swivel and cv with the bearings and associated seals

jamesmartin said:

if you can replace swivel and cv with the bearings and associated seals

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something like these James?
eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace

eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace

Are these teflon ones ok?

yes thats the stuff youd need ,count splines on shaft where it would enter cv to be sure of cv ,teflon is good ,

jamesmartin said:

yes thats the stuff youd need ,count splines on shaft where it would enter cv to be sure of cv ,teflon is good ,

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Thanks James, the Shaft has 10 splines going into the diff...thats 23 into the CV isnt it.....My VIN is KA927xxxx
two quickies ..can i put one shot grease into the swivel and not oil for this year? i.e. 1993, and lastly do I need to put back on the brake caliper dust cover as I think I have read not to bother replacing it..thanks

should be correct but worth checking it is 23 and not 33 ,things get changed over the years ,yours is 110 then as 90 didnt have 2 retaining plates although one is enough for ball seal, yes use cv grease (one shot) definately leave brake mud shield off i never fit them back ,dont forget rialko thrust washer in botton of bush and bush has two flats to take into account seal in full locks fit it right way round ,and set swivel preload before fitting seal

jamesmartin said:

should be correct but worth checking it is 23 and not 33 ,things get changed over the years ,yours is 110 then as 90 didnt have 2 retaining plates although one is enough for ball seal, yes use cv grease (one shot) definately leave brake mud shield off i never fit them back ,dont forget rialko thrust washer in botton of bush and bush has two flats to take into account seal in full locks fit it right way round ,and set swivel preload before fitting seal

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Thanks again James

Nearly received everything to start the CV replacement and doing both Swivels as well while in bits...
In the manual it says use EP oil on the CV joint, but I can see some type of Grease on Busters guide......Is it a special Grease for CV joints or will normal High temp grease do? and how much do I put in?
Thanks

used to be oil but in mid to laste 90s changed to grease to extend service intervals ,later come with grease from factory and so since basically the same parts on early grease no problem ,you buy sachet with measured amount stc3435 one per swivel

jamesmartin said:

used to be oil but in mid to laste 90s changed to grease to extend service intervals ,later come with grease from factory and so since basically the same parts on early grease no problem ,you buy sachet with measured amount stc3435 one per swivel

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so I dont need to independently grease the CV joint...the one shot grease does that as well as the swivel? ta

no the swivel grease will do it

jamesmartin said:

no the swivel grease will do it

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Thanks James

OK, so at the weekend managed to replace the offside CV/halfshaft and replace both swivels on my front axle the job took in all 10 hours of graft, about 7 hours for the offside and 3 hours for the nearside. After lots of research on this forum about the best way and tips and tricks on how to do it (thanks James, Shifty and all who commented) the top tricks and things to watch out for are listed below....I did all this with the minimum of tools that I have...i.e. no power tools at all......
I used 1/2" socket set, ring spanners mostly 10mm, 13mm, 17mm and 19mm, 52mm Box socket...BUY THIS BEFORE, two hammers, Rubber hammer, small plank of wood, gasket sealant (one side of the gasket only), locktight thread glue, torgue wrench, stanley knife, sandpaper, circlip pliers, high temp grease, tie wraps to hold caliper safe, Fish scales from ebay £4

1) Itentified the broken CV joint....offside..interesting as Shifty said, the lifting one wheel up and checking which wheel spins does not work as both wheels spin if only one CV is broken... due to the way the diff works...the offside felt slightly easier to spin so checked that side 1st and it was in bits as previous post...above
2) Puchased the Paddocks replacement CV kit (32 splines) and Swivel kits x 2
3) Purchased a tap and die set TOP TIP
4) Stripped down offside 1st and removed broken CV
5) Stripped off well worn pitted Swivel (as per Busters guide)
6) No EP oil in the old swivel at all or on the old CV (hence the wear and the broken CV no doubt)
7) used the two inlocking ring spanner trick to remove swivel bolts (took an hour in itself)
8) Cleaned off old gaskets and sanded down ALL surfaces
9) Cleaned ALL bolts and threads with the tap and die kit (saved loads of time when reassembled) TOP TIP ALWAYS CLEAN BOLTS AND THREADS
10) Layed out all new parts in the order of reassembly
11) fitted the swivel housing with new Railko bush housing and lower bearing housing....THIS was hard and I started with a rubber hammer and a piece of wood which made NO impact...eventually I placed the swivel onto a wood bench and used a bloody big hammer to knock them in (as gently as I could).....ANYBODY WHO HAS A TOP TIP FOR THIS PLEASE POST
12) used plenty of bolt thread lock on new swivel housing to axle and tighted using two ring spanner trick again
13) lubricated the swivel pin and bearing
14) fitted and torgued swivel pin and set the preload without swivel seals ( I set these to 5-6 KG and will recheck in a few weeks after a few miles of wear) BTW lots of debate on the exact preload but 4KG seemed a bit loose and no doubt the new swivel will wear a bit
15) fitted swivel seal, gasket and plates
15) cleaned up brake calipers and replaced onto swivel housing NEW BOLTS with locktight.
16) finally tightened swivel pin, now with brake hose bracket, and torgued up again.
17) cleaned and replaced Hub and mudshield
18) removed wheel bearings from disc, checked, cleaned and greased and replaced rear bearing seal
19) replaced disc and tightened up bearings TOP TIP BUY A 52MM BOX socket
20) replaced drive member TOP TIP I lost time here as the new halfshaft was too far into the diff and I could not replace the washers and circlip so I striped down again to pull it out I did not realise that the inside of the Halfshaft was threaded so all I needed to do was screw a drive member bolt into it and PULL it out!
21) TOP TIP Warmed up swivel one shot for 10 mins in a bucket of hot water and it flowed in great....I left this to the end in case I had fooked up somewhere and needed to strip all down again!
22) repeated with nearside swivel...
23) wheels on and test drive....feels more sure footed on the road.

I know this is basic stuff for the more advanced Landy owners amongst us..but for me this was a challenge and I throughly enjoyed in (even though it was 2 degrees in the garage.
I am sure I have missed a few things and I certainly made a couple of mistakes..... the worst being to put on the swivel seal retaining plates the wrong way around the 1st time and having to take off the the swivel again even though I was sure I had got it right.

I take no credit for the tips in this write up as as it was all from freds on this forum
Thanks Again
Sean

glad you're back on the road

Got my swivel oil seal on backwards the first time too