NowayPedro · Dec 15, 2023

Hello all
So it started with what can only be described as severe clutch judder when pulling away from a stand still. Park it up for a few hours or pver night and then it cures itself. Then half an hour of driving and it does it again. Juudders, shudders and shakes from the front. Feels like it could be clutch but only when it's got up to to temperature and been driven for a bit. Does it in reverse too. It's a heavy duty clutch and im running a 3.5 V8. Any ideas? Just weird how cures itself when cold.

Hicap phill · Dec 15, 2023

Could the clutch pedal be pumping up and applying pressure?
Check you have free play

NowayPedro · Dec 15, 2023

Will do.

kevstar · Dec 15, 2023

Contamination or it needs a need clutch.

NowayPedro · Dec 15, 2023

Weird how it's temperature sensitive though.

lynall · Dec 16, 2023

Engine mounts
Fuel mixture to weak

tottot · Dec 16, 2023

I am going with a prop shaft universal joint that is on its way out.
What happens is you start off ok then as the dry journal/s in the joint heats up the joint starts to seize and the vibration starts. Cools down and contracts and is free again.
Look for a joint with rusty heat stains and is hot after driving.

NowayPedro · Dec 16, 2023

I did check them. the one near the front diff has a small amount of play. But not a lot.

tottot · Dec 16, 2023

Play is not the issue in this case, it is a journal that is going solid. If you have free wheel hubs you can eliminate the front prop at least.

NowayPedro · Dec 16, 2023

Ah. Good point. They are on free wheel setting at the mo.

Anaconda · Dec 16, 2023

It's easy enough to take a prop of and inspect it properly and give it a good greasing if OK.

Enrich01 · Dec 16, 2023

NowayPedro said:
Hello all
So it started with what can only be described as severe clutch judder when pulling away from a stand still. Park it up for a few hours or pver night and then it cures itself. Then half an hour of driving and it does it again. Juudders, shudders and shakes from the front. Feels like it could be clutch but only when it's got up to to temperature and been driven for a bit. Does it in reverse too. It's a heavy duty clutch and im running a 3.5 V8. Any ideas? Just weird how cures itself when cold.

With juddering when pulling away its usually a Clutch issue, A Glazed Friction disc, or worn pressure plate, the springs or Diaphram can become uneven. Another possibility, and has happened is a loose flywheel.
Oil contamination can cause slip, but as you say, from cold its tight.. So its more likely a mechanical issue.
A Loose flywheel maybe, so when cold the bright metal oxidises, becomes tight, Then when worm if returns to judder...
Drive it carefully and see how it continues to behave. It will become more obvious... eventually

NowayPedro · Dec 16, 2023

Good point. Unfortunately I have the feeling you're right. I say Unfortunately as it's the biggest job of the possibilities !

NowayPedro · Dec 21, 2023

Hello. Drove it out in light traffic for a bit. After 40 mins or so the judder from a stationary position started again and got progressively worse every time I pulled away. Then hissing air, backfiring eventually cutting out all together. So I let it all cool down again then limped it home. Tomorrow it will good as gold again. So I now suspect something electric is failing once hot. Electronic ignition, coil, or a plug. Or perhaps the timing is out. Need to put the moon on it I think.

boguing · Dec 21, 2023

Without knowing whether you have carbs/injection or the type of distributor you have I'd agree that coil (and condenser) would be a good place to start.

NowayPedro · Dec 21, 2023

Cheers.
Twin su's and an electronic module in the dizzy. I've always been a points man myself but it was already installed. I have a spare coil. Will go again tomorrow. Thank you for your help.

p.

tottot · Dec 21, 2023

Coil getting hot after a bit?

NowayPedro · Dec 21, 2023

Yes. An easy job too. Just hope the spare that came with the wagon is compatible and working. Soon see I suppose.

NowayPedro · Dec 22, 2023

Just a quick thought. I while back I replaced the distributor cap on the (electronic ignition dizzy). I got it off a brand new spare electronic dizzy I had. I see that in suppliers such as paddock etc that they state orange coloured or black coloured. The dizzy cap I replaced was orange but the one I replaced it with is black.
Is there a reason they differentiate between orange and black or is it merely cosmetic?

Hicap phill · Dec 22, 2023

NowayPedro said:
Just a quick thought. I while back I replaced the distributor cap on the (electronic ignition dizzy). I got it off a brand new spare electronic dizzy I had. I see that in suppliers such as paddock etc that they state orange coloured or black coloured. The dizzy cap I replaced was orange but the one I replaced it with is black.
Is there a reason they differentiate between orange and black or is it merely cosmetic?

I never worried about the cap… just the rotor arm which are slightly different(used the red/orange type

Make sure the centre probe inside the cap is making contact with rotor arm

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Similar threads