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109ReasonsToBeHappy

Member
My 2.25 Petrol 109 has the Weber Carb lever mounted through the bulkhead. If I wanted to remove this and cable it back up to the choke lever on the column would this be possible?
 
I'm not familiar with the Weber carb, but my series 3 2.25 has an SU carb and a cable that runs through the bulkhead and up to the steering column choke pull and mechanically it's very simple. The SU carb has a return spring on the choke and the cable is pull only, although you can get push/pull cables if that's an issue.
 
Not sure what you are trying to achieve.
You surely need the choke?
The other control is just a hand throttle isn’t it?

So if you run your hand throttle to the choke knob what are you going to to about a choke?:confused:

J
 
 
Last edited:
marjon said:
Ok:) totally got it now.

So a PO has put the choke on the hand throttle.

Why not just buy a choke cable then swap the existing back to hand throttle position?

https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/s...-and-2-6-lhd-withoutsteering-column-lock.html

J
Click to expand...

I'm still confused by you talking about the hand throttle :)

Presumably when they fitted the Weber the PO removed the original choke cable that's mounted to the steering lock. They drilled a hole in the bulkhead and fitted a new choke cable and knob there. I'm pretty sure this would just have been the choke cable that came with a Weber kit (like this)

My plan would be to do what I think you're suggesting (I think!) because I prefer the choke to be on the steering column. I'd do it with a similar part to the one you posted. I can't find the part number but it would be something like this.

What I was trying to find out is if there'd be any issue doing that or if there was some difference between the Zenith and Weber choke operation. Perhaps one is sprung and the other not?
 
Think I get what you are trying to say.

Is your existing choke a pull and twist type to lock-in position, and the original is just a pull/push (I don’t know)

The link I posted is cheaper:)
If the original is just a push/pull then take spring from choke mechanism?

Can’t really say much more as I don’t know. How they are. Without getting a good look/in amongst it, but would say it’s doable without to much hassle.

There are a few that may have a better idea about this so hang on for confirmation.
Maybe @Turboman or @Hicap phill may know.

J
 
marjon said:
Think I get what you are trying to say.

Is your existing choke a pull and twist type to lock-in position, and the original is just a pull/push (I don’t know)

The link I posted is cheaper:)
If the original is just a push/pull then take spring from choke mechanism?

Can’t really say much more as I don’t know. How they are. Without getting a good look/in amongst it, but would say it’s doable without to much hassle.

There are a few that may have a better idea about this so hang on for confirmation.
Maybe @Turboman or @Hicap phill may know.

J
Click to expand...

Trying to understand the question, with some success.
I am fairly sure that only diesels had a hand throttle, so that can be removed from the equation.
Also, a Series 2 or 2a petrol have a choke knob mounted on the bulkhead, with a cable behind which connects to the carb, whereas Series 3 have a cable mounted on the plastic surround behind the steering wheel.

So I would imagine it is a fairly simple job to install a choke knob, which has a cable as an integral part of it, and route the cable through one of the many holes in the bulkhead, and attach it to the choke arm of the Weber carb. :)

Personally, not sure if I would bother if the existing set up is working, I don't find the choke knob on the bulkhead to be hard to use.
But then, it is not my motor.
 
109ReasonsToBeHappy said:
I'm a short-arse. No issue with it on the steering column :D
Click to expand...

I think you are supposed to say "vertically challenged" these days! ;):D

But that is quite an advantage when it comes to driving Land Rovers, they weren't really designed for people over 6 feet, I guess people were small in 1948, due to wartime nutrition.
 
Here's the entry from the Optional Parts Catalogue...

upload_2019-9-4_16-58-14.png
 
Turboman said:
I think you are supposed to say "vertically challenged" these days! ;):D

But that is quite an advantage when it comes to driving Land Rovers, they weren't really designed for people over 6 feet, I guess people were small in 1948, due to wartime nutrition.
Click to expand...

My 6'5" friend had to sell his left-hand drive 101 because he couldn't fit his knee anywhere when he wasn't using it on the clutch! He doesn't have the same issue with a RHD!
 
109ReasonsToBeHappy said:
My 6'5" friend had to sell his left-hand drive 101 because he couldn't fit his knee anywhere when he wasn't using it on the clutch! He doesn't have the same issue with a RHD!
Click to expand...

With RHD you can just let your left leg flop over in the area of the transmission tunnel.
Never had a LHD Land Rover, but I can see it might well be an issue.
 
Have driven LHD car's no bother but once had a go in a LHD Landy and it just was not right. [ in more ways than one;) ]
 
The standard (Zenith carb) Series 3 choke cable is slightly too short to use with the Weber. So you end up using the Weber choke cable and locating it somewhere on the dash or the bulkhead. I don't think the Weber cable will fit the steering lock. I've been meaning to make up a longer version of the Zenith cable (with the switch for the cold start light), but it's one of those jobs that never seems to happen.
Let us know how you get on...
 
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