Turboman
Mab An Gov
Sometimes a tap on the pump used to get it ticking again. But sometimes not.I was lucky with mine, never packed up, but did stall occasionally. A whack got it pumping again
Sometimes a tap on the pump used to get it ticking again. But sometimes not.I was lucky with mine, never packed up, but did stall occasionally. A whack got it pumping again
Thread title says it is a 2.25. Which didn't have swirl pots, which I think are a waste of space anyway.Swirl pot…
Fitted as standard to the 2.5 petrol engines with these carbs.
Just make sure you have this connect the correct way.
vapour lock. If it stops the engine have you tried to restart with foot flat to the floor in the acelartor? Now this sounds mad but if there is no fuel it won’t flood the engine but could allow the fuel bowl to purge any vapour.
have you still got a standard fan on engine?
Is this a 2.5 or 2 .25?
(Still think this may be electrical)
It didn't.Didn't know the series 3 ever had a 2.5 petrol. Every day's a school day!!
The 2.5 did have Webers as standard.Thread title says it is a 2.25. Which didn't have swirl pots, which I think are a waste of space anyway.
Foot down to the floor is a good idea, though. Not only puts in a lot of fuel, but also increases the air.
Did 2.5 petrols have Weber carbs as standard?
There are photos?The 2.5 did have Webers as standard.
These also had swirl pots as standard(fitted to prevent vapour lock)fitted in same place as @olriley
Re looked at the photos & it’s a 2.25.
the 2.5 had a very large viscous fan unsure if this was to cool the engine or the engine bay as it got hot.
(well I had this engine in place while the TDI was been sourced as it uses all same mounts)
Now looked at the pics. 2286cc petrol with the carb of a 2.5 petrol.Any better pics of the carb? There seems an awful lot of pipes. What the blue one for that goes to a tee?
Recently found my solex in the back of a cupboard wonder if it still works?Now looked at the pics. 2286cc petrol with the carb of a 2.5 petrol.
As you say, a lot more pipes than I would like to see.
I think the best option would be to replace with the right carb, which, as Col suggests, is probably a Zenith, which I think are made again.
As a matter of general interest, our Series, which has the Solex carb, never starts straight away. It catches, runs for a few beats, then stops.
It starts again after a few spins over, no problems, hot or cold.
I don't think this is due to vapour locking, which I have never experienced as far as I can remember.
I think it is because the fuel in the float bowl simply evaporates while the vehicle is standing, only leaving a bit of fuel in the passages at the top of the carb, which is enough to run it for a few seconds. A few more cranks, and the lift pump has filled the bowl, and off it goes.
Probably. It might have a few bits missing. You can get rebuild kits, or if it is very worn, there is a company that you can send them off to get a more professional job. They bore out the alloy bearings if they are worn, and press in little brass bushes where the rods turn in the body.
It won't have any bits missing, it's how i took it off.Probably. It might have a few bits missing. You can get rebuild kits, or if it is very worn, there is a company that you can send them off to get a more professional job. They bore out the alloy bearings if they are worn, and press in little brass bushes where the rods turn in the body.
I wondered about the link rod on the left, whether it should have a fitting on the top end. Maybe it does, but it is on the carb body.It won't have any bits missing, it's how i took it off.
Likely worn though!!
The link that attached to the butterfly is in use in the SU, the sticky up bit of pipe is there vacuum pipe to the dizzyI wondered about the link rod on the left, whether it should have a fitting on the top end. Maybe it does, but it is on the carb body.
It might be worn, but they are surprisingly tough, the alloy quality seems to be very good.
Couple of tins of carb cleaner, it might be good to go.
Huge thanks for this.This 32/34 DMTL has a reputation for heat soak when used on the Landy engine - I think it was designed for crossflow engines where the inlet and exhaust manifolds are on opposite sides of the block.
There are two potential issues: vapour lock and flooding. Tthe swirl pot and electric pump are intended to prevent vapour lock and the vent solenoid is supposed to allow the float chamber to breathe when the engine is turned off, to prevent fuel in the float chamber overflowing into the manifold from heat soak. Either of these issues could be your problem...
My suggestion would be to reduce the heat into the carb as much as possible - heat shields, more airflow around the carb (some Fiats had a carb cooling fan), see if the intake air can be routed from a cooler place.
Good luck!