Turboman said:
Up to you what you do! :)
Most I know that spray for a living have large compressors. Myself I don't spray paint, always brush or roller, I just have a little portable to blow up tractor tyres etc., blowing up tractor rears is hard work with a foot pump! :D
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Yep, my sisters hubby had two 300s workhorse type compressors running when him and his partner were working in both bays at his bodyshop. I used to spray when blacksmithing/ironworking and it isn't as easy as it looks - even just spraying black railings black!
 
LandyMan said:
using a compressor to spray it will make your life sooo much easier, not only that, having a compressor will make your life easier full stop, especially as you have got a landy
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Havent found it so in 30 years of working on landrovers and ag machines, pump spray does a good job, and not so fiddly to clean up after. As I said, I do have a compressor, but only a little thing for tyres. :)
 
fullenglishpint said:
Yep, my sisters hubby had two 300s workhorse type compressors running when him and his partner were working in both bays at his bodyshop. I used to spray when blacksmithing/ironworking and it isn't as easy as it looks - even just spraying black railings black!
Click to expand...
Yes, complex structures are quite hard to spray, if they are quite small I tend to hang them up on a wire for ease of access, often I find brush painting is easier for fiddly things, easy to get a good coating all over, and less tendency to runs.
 
Turboman said:
Havent found it so in 30 years of working on landrovers and ag machines, pump spray does a good job, and not so fiddly to clean up after. As I said, I do have a compressor, but only a little thing for tyres. :)
Click to expand...

I had a little tyre compressor, used to take ages to blow up a tyre if it was on the car, used to be quite quick if the wheel wasn't on the car though.

I wouldn't be without my compressor now, I find it too useful
 
LandyMan said:
I had a little tyre compressor, used to take ages to blow up a tyre if it was on the car, used to be quite quick if the wheel wasn't on the car though.

I wouldn't be without my compressor now, I find it too useful
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I love my little compressor, blowing up a shoulder high trac tyre takes a long time with a foot pump. used to do it years ago. I have never bothered with a big one, the portability is the big thing for me, tyres don't always go flat right outside the workshop. I have a 3kw petrol genny to use with the little comp if they go down in the field! :)
Big comps are great for spraying and air tools, though! :)
 
Turboman said:
I love my little compressor, blowing up a shoulder high trac tyre takes a long time with a foot pump. used to do it years ago. I have never bothered with a big one, the portability is the big thing for me, tyres don't always go flat right outside the workshop. I have a 3kw petrol genny to use with the little comp if they go down in the field! :)
Big comps are great for spraying and air tools, though! :)
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What compressor have you got?

I'm thinking of installing an ARB compressor in my disco soon for the diff locks etc ... can also be used to blow up tyres.

I always use my airtools, even for little jobs like cleaning the workshop floor or taking the wheels off, it just makes life easier and quicker
 
Here you go! Perfect for tractor tyres, absolutely useless for spraying. Have to say, I have never used an air tool in my life, I am pretty quick with normal spanners, plenty of practice! :D

 
lynall said:
This time of year you may never get the inside of the chassis dry if the vehicle is kept outside.
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I've got a workshop I can sit it in, and an air line I can go over it with. My biggest worry is the amount of dirt in there, not sure I'll ever get it ALL out
 
Roody262 said:
I've got a workshop I can sit it in, and an air line I can go over it with. My biggest worry is the amount of dirt in there, not sure I'll ever get it ALL out
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Washing water through til it runs clear is your only option if there is mud and stuff inside. Pressure washer through all available holes til water runs clear. If repairs like a replacement outrigger or rear xmember is needed, good opportunity to clean out and spray inside. Chassis will only be bad inside if the vehicle has often been driven through deep water or mud.
 
I used a drain jetting attachment with my pressure washer to flush the insides of the chassis. The attachment came with the pressure washer, but you can buy them separately. Nilfisk washer from machine mart.
 
Getting the mud out from inside the chassis rails is virtually impossible, I did think about using a drain clean attachment on a pressure washer.
Hardest part is the low point between the axles, the drain holes are silly small, so I drilled mine out to roughly 20mm so a lance can get in there, even then its still not clean.
 
Hopefully by running water through it should loosen the muck enough that once dry the dinitrol wax will 'creep' past the dirt to the metal surfaces.
Not ideal I know but aside from cutting panels in the chassis to clean it out, how can you be certain it's clean. Having the wax in there (as long as it's not trapping moisture) has got to be better than not having it in there.
 
Turboman said:
I agree! Bit late in the year for application, better to wait for warm dry weather, unless you have artificial drying facility.

It's a superb job and he squirts it into the holes in the chassis. That price is the go in Cornwall. He's so good in fact the Fire Service and Mountain Rescue use him.
Mine was cheaper because my chassis is immaculate and requires minimal prep. So there!


I very much doubt if it is possible to get a good job at that price. It takes four days to properly prepare and protect a landrover chassis. What did they do on the inside?
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Took me 3 days to clear the dust/ sand and pebbles from inside the chassis and to then Tetraseal it using a big compressor and Shultz gun and lance, ruined my workshop floor, had to burn my clothes, had a petrol shower just to get that black ****e off me. The actual result is excellent though, satin finish and is now paintable. I used 10 Tetraseal Shultz cans to connect to the Shultz gun and then another 5 litres from a can, had to mix it with petrol though to get a smooth finish and to ensure it got inside the chassis cavities, it was sprayed once a week with rustoleum for the last three months before I did the treatment though.
 
Maybe so, but that is very cheap to do that, check out what Nene and the place up Doncaster charge, well over double that.
Just because a public service uses something doesn't mean it is good. They are well known for paying over the odds for things, and they wont be working there any more when/if the vehicle rusts out.
 
Oh God a nay - sayer! Well everybody around abouts can't be wrong. If your chassis is an absolute nail then I'm sure it'll need more time. If you've got a super clean chassis like mine then clearly less time is needed hence the price.
My guy gives it a good prod and inspection first, pulls out any rot or accumulated dirt, air blasts it, jet wages it, let's it dry for 24 hrs then steams it, drys it then checks tge chassis again for any water locks. Finally puts the Waxoyl on.
I know for a fact the Fire Service and Mountain Rescue are anal as hell about their kit and have to present the vehicles for regular inspection anyway. If the job is crap, it'll get pocked up.
Try him he's called Whitehair Engineering and most Landy owners in SE Cornwall use him.
Rant over x
 
I've used waxoyl before, in aerosol, using the waxoyl sprayer and a compressor and yes, it's messy.
Only the compressor gun worked properly, and pre heat the waxoyl too...

On a reccomendation, I tried out the Dynax range from Bilt Hamber last year.
Admittedly not on my 90, but on my daily drive Lexus RX400h ( it works hard, so I thought I'd treat it when I had it up on blocks to get the wheels refurbished)

Usual prep - remove all the under trays and wheelarch liners, steam clean thoroughly, treat any rust, cover brakes etc, and apply the rustproofing ( I did pre-warm the aerosols - it was a cool day)

Used Dynax S50 aerosol ( comes with a very good spray lance) in the box sections, and Dynax UB on the underbody as a trial. It is available in larger quantities for the pressure sprayer on a compressor, but I thought I'd give the aerosols a go.

I was very impressed with the Dynax Aerosols, they really threw out the product, as good as my compressor setup.
The Dynax S50 went on nicely, covering the box sections interiors well, but didn't come pouring out like I've had waxoyl in the past - the fluid sort of stuck nicely rather than flowing out.... The lance provided a good 360 degree coverage.
The Dynax UB dries off to a harder coating, but never really dries ( if that makes sense)! It stays waxy, but doesn't go hard, but doesn't stay soft and mushy ( like the old underbody sealant).

I had the RX up on the ramps to do the 60k service earlier, and pre-winter inspection, and the Dynax had stood up well, with only a couple of areas that are directly in the "line of fire" of road spray etc showing any deterioration of the coating. The "top up" I applied stuck well to the previously applied Dynax.

Highly reccomended - a real step forward in underbody protection - I'm impressed, and will be using it on my 90 ( if I ever get started on the rebuild).

Being in aerosol format made it a lot easier to use when shuffling around under the car on axle stands - costs a bit more I suppose, but it is a lot easier. Also, it means that it's a two second job to touch it up when you spot something when servicing.

To do the Lexus took three aerosols at about £12 each isn't bad going. I suspect a 90 would use a bit more, as there are more nooks and crannies - maybe up to five?

Good product though - I won't be using waxoyl again...
 
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