L

london stu

New Member
Hi guys

The dealer I'm buying my D2 from has offered to WaxOyl the chassis. I'm thinking it might be more sensible for him to leave it alone so I can get it before'n'aftered after I've bought it and know it's been done thoroughly.

What do you think? I guess a cheap, local waxoyl job might not be up to much.

Thanks as always.

Stu
 
If there is a chance it needs any welding done don't get it waxoyled until its all sound under there..
 
disco 2 chassis legs either side of the fuel tank can split along the seam where they over-lap. waxoyl may be an excuse to cover this up!. have a good poke around before this is done. personally, i prefer hammerite rather than waxoyl as it looks neater and is easier to remove if work needs to be done
 
I would beware of a quicky by someone who didn't kow what they were doing :)
ISTR that you can seal in the moisture if you get dont get things cleanish and dry first
 
Thanks guys. I had a feeling it might be an excuse to hide something nasty, so I'll get him to hold off.

Any thoughts on before'n'after versus "normal" waxoyl? I'm only going on the ads in LRO magazine, but bafore'n'after claims to be much more thorough.

Thanks,

Stu
 
There are far better products than Waxoyl and Hammerite. Have a look at the Dinitrol range at rust.co.uk. Much more durable and far easier to apply if you have a compressor.
 
GDM said:
There are far better products than Waxoyl and Hammerite. Have a look at the Dinitrol range at rust.co.uk. Much more durable and far easier to apply if you have a compressor.
Click to expand...

Is it better because its more durable, or is it better at rust prevention too..?
 
JonnyP said:
Is it better because its more durable, or is it better at rust prevention too..?
Click to expand...

Both. Dinitrol products were tested by Practical Classics some years ago and came out as one of the best of a selection of rustproofing products.

I used Waxoyl for many years and always found it too thin and not sticky enough. Hammerite is a pain to apply and tends to be very brittle and prone to stone chipping.
 
Thanks guys.

So, after poking around on the net, I'm thinking Dinitrol is the way to go.

I don't have the space or expertise to apply it myself, so I want to have it done professionally. Places that specialise in this seem to be few and far between.

Has anyone used Underbody Protection in West Sussex?

Any other pointers for the London(ish) area?
 
I bought some POR15 the other week - did NS sill, wheel arch and door pillars in it. Unbelievable stuff. One day later, absolutely rock hard. I painted a spare bit of 3mm plate in it too, put it on my anvil and belted it with a hammer and couldn't even chip the damn thing!!

One downside is the cost. I purchased Marine Clean de-greaser, Prep & Ready, POR15, Chassis Black and thinners for £120.

Don't paint from the can, it'll be rock hard next time. De-cant it, seal with cling film and keep it in the fridge!

POR15 isn't UV stable so needs a coat of chassis black to prevent fading.

When I've got time (and done a patch of welding) I'm going to do the inside of the wheel arches, just dreading removing all of the old crap first. Inner wings to follow. Axles to follow. Thankfully, my chassis is fine.

P1010166.jpg


POR15, Inc. - Stop Rust Permanently - Repair Gas & Fuel Tanks

Search results for: '"POR15"' | Frost Auto Restoration Techniques
 
I went to rustmaster in the end.

Helpful guy (Michael), picked up and returned the car to my workplace for a small fee, and by the looks of it did a pretty good job.
 
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