Saltlick

Well-Known Member

• Jun 3, 2015

• #21

That's what I thought, as I was also a fan of dinitrol, which also comes out quite well in the test. I think if you buy it direct from their site then you get a discount when you buy a few tins.
I've read that someone used about 8 aerosol cans in total of s50 and UB, but I don't recall if they said it was 4 of each or what. I'd suggest 2-3 cans of s50 as the cavities are a lot less area than the floor, but that's just a guess, sorry!

 

H

honolulujoe

Well-Known Member

• Jun 3, 2015

• #22

think I would put the dynax on the inside only as its clear, they don't seem to do a black one unless I am going blind so I would stick with the black dinitrol 4941 for the outside purely for aesthetics, its easy to see when a bit needs re-doing on the outside.

 

Saltlick

Well-Known Member

• Jun 3, 2015

• #23

It's dark brown like dinitrol, but I think UB is black?

 

H

honolulujoe

Well-Known Member

• Jun 4, 2015

• #24

might try the ub on the oustside then, never liked brown, dinitrol 4941 is black though, the 3125 they used in the test might be brown, never used that

 

Saltlick

Well-Known Member

• Jun 4, 2015

• #25

Hmm... I just had a look and dynax ub is also brown - I thought it was black! Hey ho, it never bothered me

Dynax s50 isn't uv stable anyway, as the appearance degrades over time if left it the sun, so you'd want UB on any parts that would be in the sun, or dynax uc, which is clear.

I feel like I'm spamming for them - maybe I could exchange pork for products!

 

M

Murtle

Active Member

• Jun 5, 2015

• #26

So far I've used waxoil inside my chassis, heated to 60°C and mixed with parafin to thin it a bit. Then blasted into the internals of the chassis with a degreasing gun at 100psi. This atomises the waxoil and seems to leave a nice even coating on all surfaces. You can also see the mist coming out of other inspection holes all along the chassis.

I'm guessing you could take the same approach with dinitrol or the other wax treatments. Thinning and heating them ensures better penetration into joints, and it's easier to apply.

For me it's a 4 yearly task to ensure everything is protected. I think what ever product you choose, the application is key, more so than the product.

 

julianf

Well-Known Member

• Jun 5, 2015

• #27

Please see the attatched photo. Its big, so i wont insert it into the thread.

Its of our 101s underneath. I waxoiled it directly before parking it up on a SORN. Its outside, but not on grass.

You can see that the rust is happily coming through the waxoil. And that is with no abrasion, no mud, no direct water contact - just the moisture from the air.

The only good thing about waxoil is that its easy to apply. But then so is the shultz (etc) stuff, and think that lasts a lot better.

 

Attachments

• 
  DSCF8141.JPG

  315 KB · Views: 204

M

Murtle

Active Member

• Jun 5, 2015

• #28

Was the chassis dry and clean before you applied it, had you removed all loose paint and rust, are you sure you got complete coverage?

How long has it been standing? I can show you a picture of my chassis 18 months after waxoiling, it's been driven all this time including two winters and the chassis is pristine.