Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
300bhp/ton
Well-Known Member
You may want to stop the water getting in there in the first place.
Waxoyl works best on good metal with no rot at all. It will create a boundary layer that is water impervious. It also remains flexible so doesn't chip easily. However Waxoyl does need time to cure. The aerosol cans also don't give a very even coverage. Although in a small cavity they are easier to use than a full spray system from a compressor.
The cure time is weeks running to maybe a month. It will remain tacky, but should dry. However as a waxy substance, enough water flow over it will wash it away.
Also, if you have applied it thickly and in warm conditions, it will remain runny for longer. And be more likely to drip and run off.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
300bhp/ton
Well-Known Member
It is cleverly or sneakily phrased. "Kills old rot" WTF does that meanI suggest you read the back of the can.. https://www.hammerite.co.uk/product/waxoyl/ or the website
It says nothing about being a rust convertor, which is what you'd need to apply. It simply stops rot by creating a boundary layer. All marketing jargon. I suspect you'd find similar on other products from other people.
I always remember that chris fella who uses waxoyl, rekcons its the best thing since sliced bread, I also remember the guys disco he treated that then promptly ate its front inner wings, and chris paid for the welding repairs, but only after a long drawn out thread on one of the lr forums, might have been lz? was a few years ago now.
My point being this guy did/does this for a living and whilst he might not have had the best rep I assume he knew what he was doing?
My point being this guy did/does this for a living and whilst he might not have had the best rep I assume he knew what he was doing?
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
It is cleverly or sneakily phrased. "Kills old rot" WTF does that mean
It says nothing about being a rust convertor, which is what you'd need to apply. It simply stops rot by creating a boundary layer. All marketing jargon. I suspect you'd find similar on other products from other people.
Hmm.
So if what they write is marketing Jargon, what is the product actually doing?
The LSE that was coated in the stuff had a new set of inner arches, note the "NEW" they were covered in rust under the waxoyl after 5yrs, and yes the waxoyl had to be pressure washed off as it was still sticking to this rot..
I don't doubt it sticks, but what i doubt is it's rustproofing ability.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
Careful. He is a member, and has a habit of popping up in Waxoyl threads, to discuss it at length!
300bhp/ton
Well-Known Member
I really don't know the situation of the vehicle or panels you are discussing. So there is little point in trying to debate it. However there could be lots of factors why something rotted in 5 years. Which sounds a very short period of time, even if they were untreated. So I'm inclined to believe there is vastly more to this story. Solely blaming Waxoly for it however, is just being childish.
The rustproofing is as described above.
Careful. He is a member, and has a habit of popping up in Waxoyl threads, to discuss it at length!
Maybe he will have a link to the thread I mentioned
Just got the pressure washer (petrol one not some **** poor elec job) out on the underside of the 90, and none of the wax came off, not one bit anywhere! rather dissapointed tbh, pressure washer had the twirly whirly widget on the end of the lance that rips the arse out of everything, which makes the wax double impressive.
The initial wax in question was Morris Ankor wax, good stuff, and used to be sensible price, to dear last time I looked, but seeing hows it stuck I might have to revisit it.
The initial wax in question was Morris Ankor wax, good stuff, and used to be sensible price, to dear last time I looked, but seeing hows it stuck I might have to revisit it.
Shrubby69
Member
Thats useful thanks. It was applied to clean uncorroded metal (new repair section in door frame) - and its not been particularly warm, but its clearly not had time to cure. And I did apply it pretty liberally thinking more was better. I'll let whatever is left go off for a bit then give it another little spray in a month or so. I've used it on the rear door before and not had any problems with it running out - think I was just a bit over zealous this time.
I'd LOVE to stop the water getting in there in the first place - shocked at quite how much gets in around the seals etc which were also replaced for new. I've applied some dumdum type stuff into the corners of the frames where the window seal meets the frame - I think that's the main source of water getting in. Will give it the hosepipe test again at the weekend and apply more as required.
Shrubby69
Member
Yes - applied to a new repair section - so all clean and rust free. Hoping that I could slow down the inevitable rot.
You will never stop water getting into the doors, even modern cars have plastic sheets in the doors to divert the water away from the interior seals.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
So did later Defenders. Plastic sheets, stuck to the frames with mastic around the edges.
Buys a few years, but the frames still rot out.
flat
Well-Known Member
I actually agree with this, although I don’t use waxoyl in my chassis etc I do use it when holding plates of steel together, I give a good coat with a brush, leave for a bit to dry slightly then bolt the 2 plates together. Think places like back of the cross member between the hitch spreader plate and the x-member etc. Seems to keep the rust from creeping behind.
I also use underbody sealer type tarnsort of stuff in a similar way but in more ‘high abrasion’ areas
tottot
Well-Known Member
In those sort of places I just use grease, The chassis gets a spray of oil and diesel once a year inside and out.. Thirty year old 90 that has lived on a farm by the sea [ see avatar ] for 27 years and has only had minor welding on outriggers and patch on rear crossmember.
owas
Well-Known Member
Fluid film is another good one, but hard to get in the UK last I checked
https://www.comfishmarine.co.uk/category.php?cat_id=27
Cristoforo
Member
Try Lanoguard same sort of stuff as fluid film and easly got in the UKPretty much the same story, my Old man loved the stuff.
A beautiful LSE I've had to weld up was treated to waxoyl and it still dissolved the sills, but the waxoyl came out with the rotten metal, it just seemed to be sat on top!
Fluid film is another good one, but hard to get in the UK last I checked
