Shrubby69

Shrubby69

Member
Hi all,
I recently welded in a repair section on my drivers door and in an attempt to stop it rusting out again quite so quickly I sprayed some waxoyl into the bottom of the door frame.
Now, I may have overdone this a little - I put quite a lot in and I was concerned that I might have blocked the drain holes etc. However, when I went out to the car just now, I found that most of the waxoyl had been washed out and is sat in three nice little puddles on my side steps. So, on a good note - the drain holes aren’t blocked. But is this normal? Surely waxoyl shouldn’t get washed out like that (we had quite a lot of rain, but even so).

Anyone else experienced this? Anyone have recommendation for something else to use instead of waxoyl in the door?

thanks!
 

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Waxoyl is rubbish, I found anyhwere wheel/raod spray can get at it, the waxoyl simply does not last.

For any chassis wax to work the metal needs to be clean and free from oil/grease, and the weather/wax needs to be warm, a little engine oil mixed in with the wax helps it screeping abilities massively.

Regardless of make of wax, chassis wax needs checking annually and topping up where needed.
 
Waxoyl is shít

Dinitrol or Bilt hamber products are what i use.

If you want to cover rot use hammerite, if you want to cure it use dinitrol ;)
 
Henry_b said:
Aye!

Must be the hours of scraping off hammerite to repair chassis has taken it's toll and made me cranky where waxoyl is concerned! ;)
Click to expand...

My FIL swore by it, so as a kid I also used it and thought its really good, then his car started to rot away, even though he kept on retreating it, there was welding neede every year, that did it for me and I have not used it since.
To be fair his car was a 1989 Nissan, not exaclty known for its non rusting abilities! but my experience with waxoyl and land rovers is woeful, I think I gave my last gallon away years ago.
 
lynall said:
My FIL swore by it, so as a kid I also used it and thought its really good, then his car started to rot away, even though he kept on retreating it, there was welding neede every year, that did it for me and I have not used it since.
To be fair his car was a 1989 Nissan, not exaclty known for its non rusting abilities! but my experience with waxoyl and land rovers is woeful, I think I gave my last gallon away years ago.
Click to expand...

Pretty much the same story, my Old man loved the stuff.

A beautiful LSE I've had to weld up was treated to waxoyl and it still dissolved the sills, but the waxoyl came out with the rotten metal, it just seemed to be sat on top!

Fluid film is another good one, but hard to get in the UK last I checked ;)
 
Was it always duff or is it another story of the elf and safely people taking everything that made it work out of stuff.
I find hammerite is rubbish now.
Red oxide is nothing like the old red lead.
Most wood preserves (that you can buy) are useless

I know a painter who has stopped quoting people who want to use one of the more expensive double named paints as it is now water based and he was getting called back to so many jobs which looked rubbish after less than a year
 
The bloke who I took my LPG Disco to told me the only paint acceptable, according to the rules, to deal with rusty lpg tanks, once they have been cleaned up and brought back to a paintable surface is Smoothrite.
I have used this stuff for years, I think it is quite a lot better than Hammerite although it ought to be much the same.
But nothing works unless you've got rid of nearly, very nearly, all the rust.
There are no miracles, unfortunately. And as others have said, the new stuff is a joke compared to the older stuff. :(
 
Shrubby69 said:
Hi all,
I recently welded in a repair section on my drivers door and in an attempt to stop it rusting out again quite so quickly I sprayed some waxoyl into the bottom of the door frame.
Now, I may have overdone this a little - I put quite a lot in and I was concerned that I might have blocked the drain holes etc. However, when I went out to the car just now, I found that most of the waxoyl had been washed out and is sat in three nice little puddles on my side steps. So, on a good note - the drain holes aren’t blocked. But is this normal? Surely waxoyl shouldn’t get washed out like that (we had quite a lot of rain, but even so).

Anyone else experienced this? Anyone have recommendation for something else to use instead of waxoyl in the door?

thanks!
Click to expand...
Waxoyl is water resistant, but that is not the same as being waterproof.
And like all coatings, it is not going to work when applied to existing heavy rust, water, or dirt.
As some have said, more up to date cavity waxes are available.
And the quality of most paints and coatings is nothing like as good as it was a few years ago.
Having said that, even red lead will not do much if applied to a wet surface, with a thick layer of existing rust on it.
 
Lynall's dead right. You do need to treat your chassis and bulkhead annually.
I too had faith in Waxoil and Hammerite but have come to the same undiplomatic conclusion mentioned earlier.
Both have their uses, I coat my lady's pond heron with Waxoil and use Hammerite on some external metalwork such as lamp brackets, but not in my view on chassis.
Water does tend to get behind Hammerite and it is important then to expose and treat sound metal. From early in owning what was then my workhorse, then just a tool, and after initial use of those products I have painted the outside and sprayed the inside of the chassis with sump oil and boiled linseed oil (a proven maritime rust inhibitor) and have only had to replace a near side outrigger about 15 years ago. Anal maybe, but like lynall says, it really needs to be done at least once a year.
Vigilance is the key.
 
Corfewoodsman said:
Lynall's dead right. You do need to treat your chassis and bulkhead annually.
I too had faith in Waxoil and Hammerite but have come to the same undiplomatic conclusion mentioned earlier.
Both have their uses, I coat my lady's pond heron with Waxoil and use Hammerite on some external metalwork such as lamp brackets, but not in my view on chassis.
Water does tend to get behind Hammerite and it is important then to expose and treat sound metal. From early in owning what was then my workhorse, then just a tool, and after initial use of those products I have painted the outside and sprayed the inside of the chassis with sump oil and boiled linseed oil (a proven maritime rust inhibitor) and have only had to replace a near side outrigger about 15 years ago. Anal maybe, but like lynall says, it really needs to be done at least once a year.
Vigilance is the key.
Click to expand...
I have been using linseed oil to paint some areas of my bilge.
Quite impressed. Durability, and rust resistance, seem to be at least as good as two pack or Danboline bilge paint.
And as it is fairly cheap, and easy to apply, regular re-coating is quite possible.
 
I'm sure I read somewhere that they used boiled linseed oil mixed with soot to coat exposed woodwork, hence their black appearance? Also seen it as tar.
Either should help water proofing.
 
300bhp/ton said:
Only people who either misuse it or simply don't understand would claim this. Used properly it is a very good product.
Click to expand...
How can you "incorrectly" use waxoyl?

Must be a complete mong to do that...

Get the steel down to a reasonable standard where applicable, rust convert/remove and then waxoyl..

Rot always creeps back under waxoyl, the people that preach the product can't look through the gloop and see the rot..
 
Henry_b said:
A beautiful LSE I've had to weld up was treated to waxoyl and it still dissolved the sills, but the waxoyl came out with the rotten metal, it just seemed to be sat on top!
Click to expand...
So was the Waxoly applied to clean non rusty metal? Or more than likely sprayed onto a rusted bit of metal? It isn't designed to get rid of rust. But will help prevent it if used on good metal first.
 
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