8kphil said:
mine has dried nicely and with a waxoyl coating on top mud doesnt tend to stick at all!,one question i do have is whats the best way of cleaning your chassis without removing the waxoyl after off roading??
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Just drive 40 miles when it's comin' down in sheets and that will do an adequate job, Matey.
 
Waxoyl best thinned with white spirit, and the can warmed as well in this weather!

Personally prefer Ankor Wax - drives water away on application whereas Waxoyl can trap it, and also easier to spray
 
Station House said:
Waxoyl best thinned with white spirit, and the can warmed as well in this weather!

Personally prefer Ankor Wax - drives water away on application whereas Waxoyl can trap it, and also easier to spray
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thats because your not using cheap thinners ,thinners because it dries on contact
 
jamesmartin said:
thats because your not using cheap thinners ,thinners because it dries on contact
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maybe james, or it may be that i just prefers Ankor Wax having used both (and schutz) over the years:)

Do beleive Waxoyl can trap moisture, so something used on oil rigs that drives it away as it goes on struck me as sensible.

Good morning by the way:D
 
never tried ankor wax it may well be better, is it expensive, i do like hammerite paint it does work .but thinners is good its made my life so much easier,does depend on state of vehicle it is best done whichever from new i see so many not to old trucks corroding through lack of protection,good morning to you
 
Were both the same as Waxoyl in terms of retail - both around £25 - £28 for 5 litres when I last purchased

I purchased online from Morris Lubricants - just looked at their online shop - now £34!

Ankor Wax Preservative Fluid

Suspect you may be able to source cheaper.

I tip into 1 litre cans to spray

TFM have for £22 ex VAT

Ankor Wax 5lt
 
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if you want full on protection get it back to bare metal then use some industrial red oxide, Over coat it with industrial two pack paint ( got some stuff they use on offshore containers and other oil and gas kit ;) then go over with clear ankor wax or similar. beat that winter salt :D
 
dave18 said:
if you want full on protection get it back to bare metal then use some industrial red oxide, Over coat it with industrial two pack paint ( got some stuff they use on offshore containers and other oil and gas kit ;) then go over with clear ankor wax or similar. beat that winter salt :D
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it certainly is ,waxoyling alreay rusty car is better than nothing but usually a bit late
 
I gave mine a clean off , epoxied it and then gave it a coat of 3m stone chip - well 12 litres actually :p idea being the epoxy stops moisture getting tot he steel and the 3m shultz stops stones chipping the epoxy off. I then gave the sills and chassis internals about 5 litres of dinitrol and ML cavity wax.

all whilst it was baking hot this year so it was all very dry to start with.
 
fett said:
I gave mine a clean off , epoxied it and then gave it a coat of 3m stone chip - well 12 litres actually :p idea being the epoxy stops moisture getting tot he steel and the 3m shultz stops stones chipping the epoxy off. I then gave the sills and chassis internals about 5 litres of dinitrol and ML cavity wax.

all whilst it was baking hot this year so it was all very dry to start with.
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Yu do realise that the law of sod states that someone will drive into it now, or yu will roll it? :(.
 
yes , thats why it stays in the garage :p

I did my 4 door too and sold that to somone who will never know or care :doh:
 
I use hamerite "underbody seal with waxoyl" on the outside of the chassis and waxoyl on the inside and out. the underbody seal with waxoyl doesn't set like the underseal of old, it works for me and I've used it on loads of cars over the years, preparation is the key.
 
waldershelf said:
I use hamerite "underbody seal with waxoyl" on the outside of the chassis and waxoyl on the inside and out. the underbody seal with waxoyl doesn't set like the underseal of old, it works for me and I've used it on loads of cars over the years, preparation is the key.
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exactly what i used :D
 
I use Zinc 182 to paint the chassis, (similar to red oxide but better imo)

I use Clear waxoil inside the chassis where possible (usually leave can in a bucket of hot water first so it sprays well! I dont believe in watering it down with thinners so to speak.)

Finally i get my marigolds on and get a big tub of wheel bearing or 5th wheel grease and liberally spread grease all over the chassis with my hands. By far the best protection possible, you get a nice thick layer! ( then drive down a nice dusty road to seal the grease on, you can forget ever having to weld yer chassis again!)



Also if you need to work on the vehicle you can pressure wash it off and all the nuts and bolts are easily accessible, i hate having to chisel off underseal and shultz just to be able to get a spanner on.
 
you know 5th wheel grease is just ****e oil so can have any number of bits in it to help corrode.

You starting to make me think of using the valve sealant we use at work but at £1000 for less than 12kgs i think it might be a tad expensive.
 
dave18 said:
you know 5th wheel grease is just ****e oil so can have any number of bits in it to help corrode.
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Whats in 5th wheel grease then?
Is 5th wheel the lowest grade of grease?
I'm starting a business using grease am interested to know?



dave18 said:
You starting to make me think of using the valve sealant we use at work but at £1000 for less than 12kgs i think it might be a tad expensive.
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Its mainly oxygen that fuels corrosion, seal it off and it will take many years to corrode.

Whats this Valve sealant then? sounds good! ;)
 
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