@GrumpyGel I have no code reader, unfortunately. I had a basic Bluetooth CAN reader but that doesn't show anything. Great idea. Let me see if I can get one.
I used some of that magical error light fixing black tape. It's amazing stuff, one application and the error lights just disappear.@Alibro I need help getting to clear the TC and HDC lamps from the dash. These have stayed on for me regardless of which CAN messages I send to the ABS ECU. Is there something I am missing?
Have a look at this@GrumpyGel I have no code reader, unfortunately. I had a basic Bluetooth CAN reader but that doesn't show anything. Great idea. Let me see if I can get one.
Have a look at this
Savvycan is stunningly good software for reverse engineering.
Make sure you look at the notes for links to other channels.
It is fairly easy to strip down the instrument pack and a little black tape over the led's makes for an invisible repair. Lets face it you're not likely to be selling the car so it's no big deal. I suspect there is a combination of control from the HDC switch/ECU and CAN that turns them off. If you check page one of my EV build thread I think I mentioned a CAN signal turning the HDC light on and off.@Alibro I haven't been able to remove the HDC and Traction control errors, so I have left them as is.
Another question, how can I control the cooling fans? I have tried using a PWM signal through an Arduino but the fans still spin at 100%. How are you running them?
I did manage to reverse engineer enough of the CANbus packets going to the ABS to keep it happy, and Andy Revill modified a Rover 75 ECU for me so that it pretends to be a Freelander ECU. The data is out there (page one of the EV thread), but you would need to create something that sends those packets if you want to retain the factory functionality.It is fairly easy to strip down the instrument pack and a little black tape over the led's makes for an invisible repair. Lets face it you're not likely to be selling the car so it's no big deal. I suspect there is a combination of control from the HDC switch/ECU and CAN that turns them off. If you check page one of my EV build thread I think I mentioned a CAN signal turning the HDC light on and off.
I haven't needed fans since doing the conversion as the temps have never got above 40C
I didn't touch the ABS in my car (ex TD4), it seems to be completely self contained and still operates correctly if I brake on slippy ground.I did manage to reverse engineer enough of the CANbus packets going to the ABS to keep it happy, and Andy Revill modified a Rover 75 ECU for me so that it pretends to be a Freelander ECU. The data is out there (page one of the EV thread), but you would need to create something that sends those packets if you want to retain the factory functionality.