Thanks.
This is quite interesting. In my country, a used FL1 still costs $6000 or more!
Thanks.
This is quite interesting. In my country, a used FL1 still costs $6000 or more!
I like your thinking regarding the electric components and have to admit I'm surprised you can get the Tesla parts that cheap, but I don't like the idea of going FWD, when you try it you'll see why.
I've had Freelanders for 10 years, and love them on the whole. The mechanical issues aren't anything like people will have you believe. The components are actually really robust, but do need a degree of user understanding of how to maintain the vehicle, tyres playing a particular part in this. The FL1 simply doesn't tolerate odd tyres, or new tyres put on the front. This action causes the VCU to transfer too much drive, which causes the IRD bearings to collapse. Other than this, the drive line is pretty robust, if looked after correctly.
Fookin bloody el !!! .....
I wouldn't need a big battery pack - I'd crash it at the first cornerThat's the large power unit, so the small power unit has less grunt.
Don't forget that these power units still need suitable batteries, which could cost the same again, if not more if a decent range is needed. This would make a FL1 EV conversion a non-starter, as it'd cheaper to simply buy a complete and running Tesla instead.
LOL.
If someone is in the position to by a new car, then spending 50% more on an EV can make a lot of sense, if the plan is to keep it for a long period.
That's the large power unit, so the small power unit has less grunt.
Don't forget that these power units still need suitable batteries, which could cost the same again, if not more if a decent range is needed. This would make a FL1 EV conversion a non-starter, as it'd cheaper to simply buy a complete and running Tesla instead.
LOL.
If someone is in the position to by a new car, then spending 50% more on an EV can make a lot of sense, if the plan is to keep it for a long period.
A premium EV will hold its value much better than an equivalent ICE vehicle.
A good example would be a BMW 3 series, VS a Tesla model 3, if keeping it for 10 years. In that time a £35k BMW would loose 90% of its value, so would be worth about £3500. A £50 Tesla Model 3 on the other hand should retain 50% of its value, so should still be worth around £25k after 10 years. This doesn't include running costs, so things like fuel (most EVs cost under 1/3rd per mile), servicing costs, repairs and the like, the savings add up.
It's pretty easy to dismiss a new EV as an expensive extravagance, but if bought with the intention of long term ownership, then they actually make huge financial sense, once all factors are considered
Nice brakes.
You might want to check out @Diesel Do 's thread here.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/diesel-dos-l-series.285116/
I'm pretty sure he upgraded front and rear brakes too.
Plus he sells bits and pieces from his web site MuddyMods.com
.I admire your abilities and vision for this project..
However a 60mi range for the outlay seems quite poor?
Where do the batteries go in the Freelander?
Not being a party pooper just wonderiing!
.
Thanks. I did look through his thread during my research phase of the project, however, I wanted a sort of drop in front brake upgrade as I didnt want to install brackets or put in too much effort(restoring the calipers is more work than I need)
I actually found out that the Acura TL-S 2005-2007 and Honda Civic Type S 2004-2005 share a lot in terms of platform bits with the FL1. Has something to do with Honda being part of the RnD for the three cars.
So to make most of my conversions easy, the uprated parts will be either from a Honda Civic Type S 2004 or an Acura TL-S 2007. I have ordered a Honda Type S Electric steering rack for the hydraulic steering delete that is coming up.
The FL1 has the same front knuckles as the Acura TL-S and Honda Type S so the brake parts are near drop in replacements from the stock bits.
I plan to have about 32KWh of batteries where the current fuel tank is.
This is enough space to pack in the batteries, charge controller and DC-DC converter just to make it compact.
I intend to provide access to the converter and charge controller from the rear seats (which thankfully on the FL1 can be lifted up easily for access to that part of the car). Plan is to have a final 60KWh pack in this space through to the transmission space for a low COG. This should be good for 200km of spirited driving range
NOTE: Technically the FL1 has about 54,000 cubic inches in the engine bay area and about 9,200 cubic inches where the fuel tank is. A quarter of this is enough space to pack about 80KWh of battery based on a second life EV battery with about 250Wh/L of energy density. Most new EV batteries have about 500-650Wh/L but I am not using new batteries for cost reasons.
A 24kWh pack will give a nissan Leaf around 75 to 85 miles range so a 32kWh pack should give a Freelander a lot more than 60 miles. I haven't done the maths but I would like to think 100 miles would be achievable with 32kWhThanks. I did look through his thread during my research phase of the project, however, I wanted a sort of drop in front brake upgrade as I didnt want to install brackets or put in too much effort(restoring the calipers is more work than I need)
I actually found out that the Acura TL-S 2005-2007 and Honda Civic Type S 2004-2005 share a lot in terms of platform bits with the FL1. Has something to do with Honda being part of the RnD for the three cars.
So to make most of my conversions easy, the uprated parts will be either from a Honda Civic Type S 2004 or an Acura TL-S 2007. I have ordered a Honda Type S Electric steering rack for the hydraulic steering delete that is coming up.
The FL1 has the same front knuckles as the Acura TL-S and Honda Type S so the brake parts are near drop in replacements from the stock bits.
60miles is within round trip range of everything I need to access within the capital city of Nairobi. That's pretty much what my daily driving covers (or less).
I plan to have about 32KWh of batteries where the current fuel tank is.
This is enough space to pack in the batteries, charge controller and DC-DC converter just to make it compact.
I intend to provide access to the converter and charge controller from the rear seats (which thankfully on the FL1 can be lifted up easily for access to that part of the car). Plan is to have a final 60KWh pack in this space through to the transmission space for a low COG. This should be good for 200km of spirited driving range
NOTE: Technically the FL1 5dr has about 54,000 cubic inches in the engine bay area and about 9,200 cubic inches where the fuel tank is. A quarter of this is enough space to pack about 80KWh of battery based on a second life EV battery with about 250Wh/L of energy density. Most new EV batteries have about 500-650Wh/L but I am not using new batteries for cost reasons.
so the 32kWh pack will be depleted faster. My daily workday circuit is about 40miles so that's plenty of sleeper goodness for a day.
I see, so what your saying is when driven by an auld fart like me 100 miles is easily do-able but when driven like a hooligan by you, maybe not.You are right to an extent.
Here is the simple math:
If you want the APPROXIMATE range (miles) a battery pack will cover, just multiply the battery capacity by 3.
An EV will consume between 200-650W/km depending on throttle mapping, motor efficiency, electric accessories and general road driving conditions aside from the obvious aerodynamic considerations. The Nissan Leaf is on the lower end of this scale for the sake of range so its motor is not programmed for spirited 0-60 or 60-120 "pulls" hence its 6.7ish seconds 0-60 times and more range.
With the small Tesla drive unit I will be going for full beans aka 220kW for those traffic light pulls etc
