Project Tracker/Share Log for Freelander 1 EV Project.

So thought I start my newbie post by sharing about my Freelander1, Wattson.

I got this off a friend who'd left it to stand(and grow grass and weeds) because it had a gearbox issue which caused it to "kick" hard when it shifted gears from cold (still haven't figured out what the issue is but once it's warm and you restart the car, the gears shift good with the occasional soft kick from 3 to 2 or under hard braking from 3rd).

These are what I have fixed so far:
1. The gearbox fluid was mixing with the coolant - Replaced the gearbox oil heat exchanger to resolve this.
2. The engine misfired like hell - Replaced Coil packs and plugs.
3. The stock radio and fog lights weren't working - Installed new fuses/replaced fried fuses.
4. The exterior window trims were shot - Replaced with used ones from the scrappy.
5. The rear tailgate door wouldn't open consistently - Replaced the motor and lift mechanism.
6. The rear window lift mechanisms were not working - Replaced with new ones.
7. The engine vibrated like nuts - Replaced the lower engine mount (funny just that fixed it)
8. Replaced a number of broken engine hoses and lines that leaked.
9. Aircon Compressor was making a grinding noise - Replaced the pulley bearing and the accessory belt.[GALLERY=][/GALLERY]
9. The interior roof ceiling was saggy - Had this redone by an interior specialist.
10. Interior lights weren't working - Replaced the bulbs with LED ones.

Things I haven't fixed
1. I have not fixed the gearbox "kick" issue and it annoys me every time it happens. Easily the one thing I hate about the car.
2. Leaking oil from the cam area. Tried to trace it and it seems to come from the black covers at the camshaft cover ends. Not gotten round to replacing them.
3. Cruise control doesn't work.

The spec is a Sports pack (I think) with all leather interior with 18" rims. Sadly no seat warmer. Car drives well when not having the gearbox issues.

I bought this "hippo" because I plan to do the following to it, in order:

1. Swap out the front brake system for Brembo 4 piston calipers and 300mm drilled/slotted rotor kit.
2. Swap out the rear brake drums for calipers and drilled/slotted disks with integrated hand-brake.
3. Swap out the hydraulic steering for electric steering.
4. Delete the rear wheel drive (basically make it a 2 wheel drive).
5. Swap out the engine brake vacuum lines for an electric ibooster brake kit.
5. Convert it to fully electric with custom 32KWh battery pack and Tesla drivetrain for a targeted initial range of 100km. This includes the necessary changers, DC-DC converters, BMSs and CAN controllers for the cooling fans etc. I am not retaining any of the LR drivetrain, gearbox or ICE bits.
6. Swap out the analog gauges for dual 3.5 custom digital displays.

Hope to share these projects with the community here.

Project Update:
Decided to start on the rear drum conversion as the front Brembos were delaying in delivery.
The Parts list:
2xRear Brake Caliper w/ Bracket
2xRear Drilled/Slotted Brake Rotor
2xPair of Ceramic Pads

These are similar brake parts for Honda Civic 2.0L Acura EL RSX 2002-2005 as they share the same PCD and CB.

===LARGE PHOTOS ALERT===






I disassembled the rear brake drum to start mapping and building the bits required for the caliper mounts




Took everything apart without removing the wheel hub and identified where the caliper would be. I got a grinder and trimmed bits off the hub to make the space.

I used 10mm MDF to mock up the caliper mounts. The idea was to mount where the original drum brake rear plate mounted on the wheel hub.





It is at this point that I realized that for the caliper adaptor to be installed I would have to remove the wheel hub (and rebuild it) which is far too much work and something I didn't want to do.



So I decided to make a two piece caliper mount to get around this problem. The two pieces combine to form a single piece around the wheel hub and technically offers 90% the same strength as a single piece.









After this I just fitted the MDF mount to the hub and shaved off some bits for clearance.




I then did a mock fitting with the calipers and rotors just to make sure the clearances were as planned/recommended.






Once the mock fit the spec I was looking for I proceeded to send the MDF models to a pal at a metal fab shop to machine the mounts. Being also an engineer{albeit structural), he did a second design check to make sure the mounts would be strong enough to withstand the brake forces.

The machined brackets came back and I was too anxious to install them as I needed to close this part of the project. Sorry, only took photos for the finished setup.
I had to paint the grind out bits with high temp rust protecting paint and had new hand brake cables made for the new hand brake mechanism.



Fitted the rims to make sure everything is clear



A test drive/bedding-in session followed and everything checked out.
I had to reset the handbrake due to the new cables but the grip is much better than the old drum brakes were.

Great progress. I'll be very interested to see how you interface the Tesla motor with the drive train. Are you planning to go through the current gearbox or IRD?

Wonk said:

Great progress. I'll be very interested to see how you interface the Tesla motor with the drive train. Are you planning to go through the current gearbox or IRD?

Click to expand...

Thank you.

No, am not reusing the gearbox or IRD due to their potency for issues down the road. I plan to use a Tesla Model S/X small Front Drive unit installed at the front first. Then get a Tesla Rear Small Drive unit for the rear later to get back 4×4 functionality.

That makes sense. I think you would have issues putting that much torque through the original drive train without some upgrades.

That will be a hell of a sleeper when you have both motors installed!

I have been thinking about using Outlander Phev components in my freelander. I wasn't sure if the rear diff motor would fit in the back as it is allot higher than the original rear differential. Will be interesting to see how the tesla rear drive unit fits.

As to the gearbox issue, I would have tried a few gear changes without using the clutch, to try to see if it really was the gearbox or if it was the clutch to blame.
Personally, I had wanted to convert from drums to discs on the rear of mine when I first got it, but didn't see any conversion kits available. So I pretty much forgot about the idea and got used to the drum brakes.

You wait years for some idiot to try and build an EV from a Freelander and two come along at once.
well done with progress so far and good luck with the project.

The only thing I would suggest is you remove the prop shaft and drive it 2WD for a while to see how you like it.
The TD4 is OK 2WD but the K series 1. 8 was horrible. It understeered like the front wheels were on ice. Something to do with weight distribution

Nice project ideas, but why start with the brakes, when the brakes are more than adequate from the factory. Surely the money would be better spent elsewhere, like sorting the electric drive train. Have you seen the price of Tesla drive train components? I'd start by sorting those things out first.

I actually can't see the point in using 2 drive units either, in preference to a simpler system retaining the factory AWD, but each to there own I guess.

Good luck with the project.

Alibro said:

The only thing I would suggest is you remove the prop shaft and drive it 2WD for a while to see how you like it.
The TD4 is OK 2WD but the K series 1. 8 was horrible. It understeered like the front wheels were on ice. Something to do with weight distribution

Click to expand...

Thanks. That is actually in the project timeline I have shared above. Will go to 2WD first before full conversion.

All this talk [and action] of EV conversion is great. I'd love to get into it at some stage.

Personally I like your thinking of ditching all the old tech gearbox, IRD etc. It will may some things more complex, like mounts, drive shafts etc but should give a cleaner more efficient finish.

I can see both sides though - and I'm sure there have been many EV conversions not finished because they tried to get to complex. A finished project is a million times better than one that isn't!

Good luck to you and all that have a go

I would say though that 100km range would be a non starter for me! 5 or 6 charges to go fishing just does not cut the mustard

GrumpyGel said:

All this talk [and action] of EV conversion is great. I'd love to get into it at some stage.

Personally I like your thinking of ditching all the old tech gearbox, IRD etc. It will may some things more complex, like mounts, drive shafts etc but should give a cleaner more efficient finish.

I can see both sides though - and I'm sure there have been many EV conversions not finished because they tried to get to complex. A finished project is a million times better than one that isn't!

Good luck to you and all that have a go

I would say though that 100km range would be a non starter for me! 5 or 6 charges to go fishing just does not cut the mustard

Click to expand...

Have to say, I could not kill my L Series.

If I convert one, it would have to be to rid it of the BMW lump.

Nodge68 said:

Nice project ideas, but why start with the brakes, when the brakes are more than adequate from the factory. Surely the money would be better spent elsewhere, like sorting the electric drive train. Have you seen the price of Tesla drive train components? I'd start by sorting those things out first.

I actually can't see the point in using 2 drive units either, in preference to a simpler system retaining the factory AWD, but each to there own I guess.

Good luck with the project.

Click to expand...

The idea is to do the project in such a way that I can still drive the car as my daily and be able to do so over a 6 month period with minimal downtime.

The front and rear brake upgrades have cost me a total of $800 for parts, all labor is mine so basically free.

I understand Tesla parts are pricy but with some technical knowhow I will be able to get the entire initial conversion cost below $7000 for the first phase!
I got and ordered a Model S small Rear Drive unit, 10Kw charger and DCDC unit from a 2017 Tesla for $1900 from a US car breaker, Shipping to Kenya is $800 via sea freight. This takes about 3months to arrive (enough time and another reason to start other swaps)
I have also ordered the motor inverter controller and 10KW charger boards based off Damián's (EVBMW-open source Tesla controllers) designs for a total of $400 from JLCPCB fab in China. I will build them and install the firmware once they arrive.

So the Tesla bits will cost me about $3100 total to have ready to install including the subframe modifications. That isn't too much for what I am getting.
I have a budget of $3500 for batteries and BMS(open source) which should fit my phase 1 budget. So yea, I have done the math, have the complete parts list and may make changes based on what becomes available in terms of batteries and your ideas.

Lets see how it goes.

GrumpyGel said:

Have to say, I could not kill my L Series.

If I convert one, it would have to be to rid it of the BMW lump.

Click to expand...

Same, I would probably convert an old K series pre facelift as I prefer the hippo look. Would make a very fun sleeper project one day. Even with the leaf motor there is potential for 300HP, although the cost of the transmission upgrades would probably pay for allot of the Tesla setup.

GrumpyGel said:

Personally I like your thinking of ditching all the old tech gearbox, IRD etc.

Click to expand...

There's and old and IMO relevant saying here, Keep It Simple.

Adding motors at the front and the back isn't keeping it simple, it's making it about as complicated as is possible, never mind the hassle of actully getting it approved for road use.

GrumpyGel said:

It will make some things more complex, like mounts, drive shafts etc but should give a cleaner more efficient finish.

Click to expand...

It might be a more polished finish, but it would take away valuable space for the batteries (Tesla drive units are huge), which is the reason I'd retain the existing drive train, simply removing all the components that aren't needed once the ICE engine is removed.

The small Tesla drive units are pretty small and compact IMO.

Mounting them shouldn't also be an issue considering how well packaged they are.

tensa4 said:

The idea is to do the project in such a way that I can still drive the car as my daily and be able to do so over a 6 month period with minimal downtime.

The front and rear brake upgrades have cost me a total of $800 for parts, all labor is mine so basically free.

I understand Tesla parts are pricy but with some technical knowhow I will be able to get the entire initial conversion cost below $7000 for the first phase!
I got and ordered a small Front Drive unit, 10Kw charger and DCDC unit from a 2017 Tesla for $1900 from a US car breaker, Shipping to Kenya is $800 via sea freight. This takes about 3months to arrive (enough time and another reason to start other swaps)
I have also ordered the motor inverter controller and 10KW charger boards based off Damián's (EVBMW-open source Tesla controllers) designs for a total of $400 from JLCPCB fab in China. I will build them and install the firmware once they arrive.

So the Tesla bits will cost me about $3100 total to have ready to install including the subframe modifications. That isn't too much for what I am getting.
I have a budget of $3500 for batteries and BMS(open source) which should fit my phase 1 budget. So yea, I have done the math, have the complete parts list and may make changes based on what becomes available in terms of batteries, lets see how it goes.

Click to expand...

Good luck on the project. It sounds like you've done some homework.

The Tesla parts you are ordering seem cheap, but maybe in the US they are. Here in the UK, you'd not see any change out of £5k for a Tesla drive unit, and for that price you can buy a complete Nissan Leaf to act as a donor for almost everything needed to carry out an EV conversion.

Spending $800 on brakes would be seen as excessive, as the FL1 in the UK is pretty worthless (I can't get £800 for my 2005 SE), so few people would spend more on a brake upgrade, than the vehicle is actually worth.

I'll look forward to the conversion process though.

Nodge68 said:

Good luck on the project.

The Tesla parts you are ordering seem cheap, but maybe in the US they are. Here in the UK, you'd not see any change out of £5k for a Tesla drive unit, and for that price you can buy a complete Nissan Leaf to act as a donor for almost everything needed to carry out an EV conversion.

Spending $800 on brakes would be seen as excessive, as the FL1 in the UK is pretty worthless (I can't get £800 for my 2005 SE), so few people would spend more on a brake upgrade, than the vehicle is actually worth.

I'll look forward to the conversion process though.

Click to expand...

Thanks.

This is quite interesting. In my country, a used FL1 still costs $6000 or more!