C

Colthebrummie

Well-Known Member
my 2003 1.8 k series has sprung a leak which I think is from the water pump. The local 4x4 place is quoting the thick end of £400 to replace it, bugger that for a laugh. So, reluctantly, I either need to do it myself of stick a bottle k seal in and hope for the best. Also, it has just failed its mot on missing/corroded exhaust bracket, corroded fuel tank retaining strap?? And a couple of other things not to difficult to fix. The car is only worth about a grand if it had an mot so I'm not inclined to spend a fortune. It seems the water pump is driven by the cam belt which will need replacing. My question is, can I remove the belt and replace it without any special cam locking tools. Incidentally, the bloke at the 4x4 place said the water leak is more likely to be the head gasket but he said that without actually looking at the engine. Normally I'd just ignore the leak but it is getting through a litre of coolant in about 5 miles.

I would appreciate all and any thoughts.

Col
 
Coolant pumps can and do leak. If you replace the coolant pump you should consider replacing the cam belt too, unless it has been replaced recently. You will have to take care aligning the timing marks up when fitting the cam belt.

However, other leak points are possible too. Obviously the head gasket either internally, you see this in the oil... or externally, leaking outside the head and down the engine block. OR the inlet manifold gasket: either internally, check inside the cylinders with one of those wee cameras or externally - again look for coolant stains below the inlet manifold.
 
Thanks for the reply htr, I agree, I need to take a closer look after I've removed the air filter housing. At the moment I can only see coolant on the engine casing under the water pump. It has been leaking for a while, I first thought it was the expansion tank because there was a few tiny cracks appearing but not much coolant lose. Since I put a new expansion tank on, the leak has become significantly worse. My thoughts on the cam belt are that as long as I don't allow the engine to turn, I could just slip the old belt off and then put the new one on without locking the cams or setting up th marks. Does adjusting the tension cause the cams to turn slightly?

Col
 
Re' checking for external leaks, drop that under tray arrangement off lift the bonnet too. Use a good/strong inspection light and have a close look at the head to block joint at the from of the motor and around / below the coolant pump.

I've not noticed the cams, especially the inlet move while adjusting the tension. I suppose it could happen. I recommend aligning all the marks before you start.
 
I'll start looking at it properly tomorrow, thanks for the advice, I will get a locking tool if I need to order a new pump and belt. If it is the head gasket, I think it will be game over.

Col
 
Colthebrummie said:
I'll start looking at it properly tomorrow, thanks for the advice, I will get a locking tool if I need to order a new pump and belt. If it is the head gasket, I think it will be game over.

Col
Click to expand...
Loads of videos on YouTube for replacing timing belts and water pumps on a 1.8. Well worth watching a few. I don't bother with the locking tool as it makes refitting the belt very hard. You'll also need a cam turning tool if you don't lock them tho.
 
Colthebrummie said:
my 2003 1.8 k series has sprung a leak which I think is from the water pump. The local 4x4 place is quoting the thick end of £400 to replace it, bugger that for a laugh. So, reluctantly, I either need to do it myself of stick a bottle k seal in and hope for the best. Also, it has just failed its mot on missing/corroded exhaust bracket, corroded fuel tank retaining strap?? And a couple of other things not to difficult to fix. The car is only worth about a grand if it had an mot so I'm not inclined to spend a fortune. It seems the water pump is driven by the cam belt which will need replacing. My question is, can I remove the belt and replace it without any special cam locking tools. Incidentally, the bloke at the 4x4 place said the water leak is more likely to be the head gasket but he said that without actually looking at the engine. Normally I'd just ignore the leak but it is getting through a litre of coolant in about 5 miles.

I would appreciate all and any thoughts.

Col
Click to expand...
That's quite a leak Col, with that much can't you see where it's leaking from ?
Wouldn't recommend any additives they can block the whole system.
Also while your there you may as well put a new belt on. With my luck I know it would snap a week later and then it's total scrap.
I'm spending nearly £500 on my old bus as I think that's cheap if she'll last another year ?
 
The leak is a bit weird, it seems to not leak while the engine is running but them pizz itself after I switch off and it cools down. It failed the mot on about £400 worth of work which isn't too bad.

Col
 
Colthebrummie said:
The leak is a bit weird, it seems to not leak while the engine is running but them pizz itself after I switch off and it cools down. It failed the mot on about £400 worth of work which isn't too bad.

Col
Click to expand...

No col not bad for a years motoring, as said mine empties the expansion tank every journey. Been told its probably the head gasket as we can't find a leak.
I just top it up with a ready mixed anti coagulant mix which is all I can get here but it's only £4 for 5 litres.
I would never need the heater here so might risk adding bars leak or similar but in your case it could block the system so wouldn't recommend it.
Perhaps you could have a pressure test done on yours ( very cheap ) to find a leak.
If your lucky might just be a worn or loose hose. Sounds like when it expands it seals its self and when it cools it opens again.
Must say that's unusual but not unheard of.
 
Originally, my leak was caused by thin cracks around the neck of the expansion tank. It would drop from the Max mark to minimum after about 150 miles. Changed the tank now it's escaping from either the pump or the head gasket. It's as if the extra pressure in the system with the new tank is forcing it out of a weak spot.

Col
 
Colthebrummie said:
Originally, my leak was caused by thin cracks around the neck of the expansion tank. It would drop from the Max mark to minimum after about 150 miles. Changed the tank now it's escaping from either the pump or the head gasket. It's as if the extra pressure in the system with the new tank is forcing it out of a weak spot.

Col
Click to expand...

Sounds about right, I was back in the uk last week and meant to buy a new tank but completely forgot.
Mines so cruddy you cant see the water level without removing the cap and looking inside ! The previous numpty owner just kept filling with tap water which here is very salty so mucho rust in my system. It's nearer to brown soup than water, so the more I top up with the anti coagulant the faster it leaks !
Will just put up with it as not worth spending my larger vouchers on repairs.
 
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