If you can stop the blades with a rolled up newspaper with engine at idle and hot radiator the viscous unit is slipping and if the fan is not locked solid then it has no cooling power... the AC fan kicks in anyway if the coolant temp exceeds 110*C , that's how it was conceived
Then you have 3 options: thermostat is stuck closed, the rad is clogged or you have an air lock
that's the temperature when the thermostat starts to open not when it has full flow... on a long run when it's warm outside the fact that it opens sooner will not be so relevant cos once it got full flow and the ECT gets above 95 no matter if it opened sooner ... that lower opening temp helps for short journeys... fitb a proper D2 thermostat and the temp will go lower IMOalthough the thermostat is stamped 82*C so thought it would run a bit lower than that?
that's the temperature when the thermostat starts to open not when it has full flow... on a long run when it's warm outside the fact that it opens sooner will not be so relevant cos once it got full flow and the ECT gets above 95 no matter if it opened sooner ... that lower opening temp helps for short journeys
An airlock not but air in the system yes though the flow in the matrix won't affect ECT... you should have struggled a bit with the wiring and hose as to be able to lift the tank above the bleed hole otherwise you can't bleed it well whatsoever and air is still trapped in it but maybe in other place
which will not bleed the bypass circuit at all as it opens only above 1500rpm but while your stat is with stroinger spring on the bypass who knows when it opens, at least partially release the bleed screw as to get flow and keep the rpm at let's say 2000 untill no bubbles are coming out then tighten it backThe way I did it was to very slowly fill the coolant and then run the engine at idle with the coolant cap off and heater on until the temp got up to around 85*C.
which will not bleed the bypass circuit at all as it opens only above 1500rpm but while your stat is with stroinger spring on the bypass who knows when it opens, at least partially release the bleed screw as to get flow and keep the rpm at let's say 2000 untill no bubbles are coming out then tighten it back
btw, heater on or off it's irrelevant cos there's continuous flow through the matrix, the heater setting is no factor
The 5'th cylinder is in worst shape in all td5s cos it doersnt have a glow plug and the difference is obvious compared to the other 4 all the time
i agree... i think that at the very moment when that was designed those guys were a bit drunkThey could have easily had a glow plug there and put the FPR somewhere else, I can't see why it has to be ON the cylinder head