markav8r

Member
Hi Guys,

My first landrover!

I've discovered the joys of a p38:cool: so time to share some of my mods.

Heated fuel lines.
DIY pipe in pipe heater using simple off the shelf fittings, 10mm nylon fuel line runs inside the heater hose line. The terminals are 22mm plumbing fittings - a 22, 22, 15 T is used with the nylon line passing straight through, and a second 1/2" hose creates the seal. As I had to take the coolant to the back of the car, I decided not to waste it and also put the return fuel line inside teh retrun coolant line.

FPHE - (Flat plate heat exchanger) fitted to bulkhead - this does the majority of the heating.

Heated fuel filter - I didnt want to skimp on filtering any fuel, so I fitted this. "off the shelf" conversions use the existing vehicle filter for the veg and a simple plastic one for the startup fuel. My solution provides two filters - no problem room wise - I simply moved the original forward to leave room for the other filter, which I placed directly infront of the FPHE.

Changeover valves and "diesel therm" are off the shelf. The diesel therm is fitted at the point where the fuel leaves the changeover valve to go to teh injector pump.

Purge pump- a simple 12v pump which purges cold oil in the lines back to the heated filter. I'll soon adapt it to return the fuel direct to the tank. This is probably not a necessary item as the off the shelf vendors dont have any such thing.

Under body start up tank.- I relocated the air reservoir to the opposite side from the fuel tank. This provided enough room for a 20 litre tank strapped to the chassis leg. I used the original fuel lines to run to / from this tank.

Main tank - now filled with veg. I replaced the fuel lines to 10mm od, and as soon as possible - i.e forward of the tank ran them inside heater hose.

In tank pump - failed (after about 3000 miles) due to veg being thick - so I fitted an external "gear" pump.
Startup tank uses a facet pulse pump - I hear when its running.

A thermometer display is now fitted into my dash - it has a remote probe simply held against the heated fuel filter canister by a bit of pipe insulation which surrounds the filter. I look for 30 c before changeover and get 65c driving. (it underreads a bit so real figures are 10% to 20% higher)

As usual - some bells and whistles to let me know what tank I am on, and a second fuel guage for the startup tank.

I managed to get the fuel filler neck for the startup tank in beside the main filler - so its discreet under the flap. :cool:

I got about 10k miles (and have had a few others local now start to run their vehicles on a veg mix) - until the rangie has let me down. I have an unrelated error code - abs and traction control. Local experts havent got to the bottom of it yet.:(

So sadly - my stock of veg is growing! (I may have to start flogging it to pay for the "experts" to fix my traction control.):(


Rgds, Mark
 
Interesting read.

Had ABS/TC issues with my Freelander - swapping the 'modulator' box from a wrecked car sorted it.
 
I'm running My p38 on 100% waste veg all the time and have been for about 8 months and have run in other cars now for several years

Will put a small amount of Petrol in (5%) as the weather gets colder

I uses a Eckes fuel heater, which is basically a VW oil cooler run in reverse with a machined adaptor it bolts permanently between filter and filter head and the water feed is taken from block where the little U shaped pipe sits at back of engine.

If you use new Veg you will not need a heater, it's any possible whites that are in used oil that clog the filter.

Saves me loads, my fuel runs out at about 5p a litre, rough guess that, only as I have to buy sock filters to gravity filter in stages down to 1 micron. Filter last me about 6 months 1000 ltrs or so
 
I'm running My p38 on 100% waste veg all the time and have been for about 8 months and have run in other cars now for several years

Will put a small amount of Petrol in (5%) as the weather gets colder

I uses a Eckes fuel heater, which is basically a VW oil cooler run in reverse with a machined adaptor it bolts permanently between filter and filter head and the water feed is taken from block where the little U shaped pipe sits at back of engine.

If you use new Veg you will not need a heater, it's any possible whites that are in used oil that clog the filter.

Saves me loads, my fuel runs out at about 5p a litre, rough guess that, only as I have to buy sock filters to gravity filter in stages down to 1 micron. Filter last me about 6 months 1000 ltrs or so

Any veg - either new or used needs heated. It needs to act similar to diesel, so either thinning to make it the same viscosity or heating to again make it as thin as diesel.

I cold filter down to 1 micron.
 

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