Paul D said:
Swivels are OK done separately, in my opinion.

When you do wheel bearings do the pair on each hub .. don't, for instance, change just the inner bearing and not the outer. Again, One side of the axle set might be fine so doesn't necessarily need changing .. just don't forget the whole wheel bearing on each hub is actually a pair of bearings .. :)
Click to expand...

Yeah I ment change both pairs as in the knackered pair on drivers side and the pair on passenger side. Wouldn't just do a single bearing race I knew they came as pairs been reading the Haynes book of lies lol.

Going change all the track rod end ball joints and A-frame ball joint although no play the gaiters on some are perished.
 
Ordered all spares I need to sort out the play in swivel and rear wheel bearing also ordered a set of Heavy Duty Steering rods that come with ball joints from Paddocks. Got everything delivered today well everything apart from the actual Steering rods they sent Ball Joints that come with the rods but no Steering Rods even though they are on the delivery note :(
 
Well been at it all weekend got Rear wheel bearing replace, then stripped the passenger front swivel found lots of play there so got that overhauled and rebuilt took off the old steering rods and Ball joints the one on the drag link bar had loads of play and was dryer than a witches tit the other 2 were slightly better but not much. I replaced ball joint and steering rods with the new HD ones I'd got. Was absolutely soaked through Saturday and Sunday doing the work the "Joys Of Owning a Landy". Anyway today tried 4 diffrent tyre and exhaust companies to do the tracking all of which said they couldn't do Defenders :( Then my dad had the idea of using string across the wheels to line everything up which seems to have worked as Vlad now drives and steers perfect no more veering at 40mph steering wheel sits bang on.

Had him up to 60mph(wouldn't dare before) today and was like a differnt Land Rover. Even a lower speeds no pulling to one side etc. :D:D:D
 
I hope to rejuvenate the steering before Christmas. It's not that bad if I'm truthful but as I intend renewing the steering damper,I thought I might as well replace the track rod ends and rod. The ball joint is ok so will probably just leave that.

I've also purchased new front disks which I will replace. Whilst doing this I'll replace the pads and wheel bearings. I've no idea how to replace the swivels, sadly both are badly pitted and leaking. Was doing the swivels a big job.?!
 
Like most landy jobs, changing swivels is not difficult, just heavy/dirty. Getting the old bearing races out of the swivel housing can be a bit of a bugger. I used a steel drift and lump hammer. Getting the new one in was easier - if put it in the freezer first. The TREs can sieze, so a heat gun is useful, as is a splitter.
 
First time I replaced wheel bearings I made myself a drift out of the old bearings. It works a treat.

Im more concerned with setting the tension on the swivels etc!!
 
Last edited:
Landyfox said:
I hope to rejuvenate the steering before Christmas. It's not that bad if I'm truthful but as I intend renewing the steering damper,I thought I might as well replace the track rod ends and rod. The ball joint is ok so will probably just leave that.

I've also purchased new front disks which I will replace. Whilst doing this I'll replace the pads and wheel bearings. I've no idea how to replace the swivels, sadly both are badly pitted and leaking. Was doing the swivels a big job.?!
Click to expand...

This first Land Rover I've had and I was daunted by the swivels but in the end they weren't that bad to do and I'd happily tackle them again. There's a good picture guide on this Forum and plenty YouTube vids to help.

Tbh I was really surprised how easy it was to get the bearing races out of the hub I've done wheel bearings on other cars and few time I've had to get a garage to press them out but not with the Defenders all I used was a copper drift and hammer the a copper mallet to drive new ones in also used Busters tip of cutting a slot in a old race made refitting new races easy.

Good Luck
 
Landyfox said:
First time I replaced wheel bearings I made myself a raiser out of the old bearings. It works a treat.

Im more concerned with setting the tension etc!!
Click to expand...

I torqued the adjusting nut up to 61Nm then spun Hub a few times then torqued again to 61nm and repeated till torqued just clicked out after I spun the hub then I slackened adjusting nut back 90 degrees or qauter a turn then fitted lock washer and nut.
 
Nah I can replace the wheel bearings, I've done a few times, it's the removing and resetting the tension on the swiveles. I assume you don't set the tension as if your doing the wheel bearings. :confused:
 
Landyfox said:
Nah I can replace the wheel bearings, I've done a few times, it's the removing and resetting the tension on the swiveles. I assume you don't set the tension as if your doing the wheel bearings. :confused:
Click to expand...

Nope, use a spring balance on the hub to measure, and add/remove shims from under the top swivel pin to adjust.
Can just take a bit of faffing to get right.
 
I used a spring balance to set the swivel tension on the bench first before fitting oil seal then fitted whole assembly back on to the axel. Don't through away your old shims you might need them as extra packers.
 
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