Yep would agree with that. It's all logical. I did see p123, but if using a 5L tub, and doing the test on the car, which seems to be the most popular weight available to us all, then just as the bar gets to 3 o'clock, the tub starts to sit on the ground. This would make 135 degrees difficult to get to as the bar doesn't have height on it past 3 o'clock. That's if I've understood your description correctly. Tis late afterall.
 
Take your point, but really need as large an angular displacement as poss. 45deg minimum, but preferably 90. Is there any way the container could be mounted differently to give longer travel? Jack the wheel up higher?
 
Jacking wheel higher would be the only way. I could have a go at seeing if I could get him on top of an up turned skip, wheel close to the edge for testing. More seriously, peeps may be conerned at jacking it so the bottom of the wheel is 1 foot off the ground to allow for 135 degrees. I could do mine as I've got the wooden block ramps, but it would be tricky.

When me bars connected to the wheel and verticle, it leans away from the car at about 3 degrees. It does this at 45 degrees too. Tollerence of nut and 32mm socket I guess, plus leverage. I had to use a 3 inch extension between the rachet and 32mm socket if eye's remember correctly. Can't think of any other way to put the weight higher than the bar, as it would need to be fixed so it did't spin round the bar. Fukin gravity eh? Fukin the test up. ;)
 
I don't mean to knock what we've come up with. The wheel test is good. It's a clear visual thing peeps can try. Spinning 90 degrese, and ending at 135 degrese allows the bar to be the most horizontal in can, during the test, which gives a more even pressure. 45 degree to the horizontal is simular, but half the distance for the bar to travel. If they don't have a 32mm socket and bar, then it's a problem. Torque wrench could be an option. Haven't tried that myself, so couldn't say I have results which are precise, or could be considered so. Recently with one wheel in the air, I tried to turn the wheel by hand, by pushing the tread round. Surprised at how easy it was. Constand firm pressure and it turned. Not as quickly as a 1.2m bar with 12kg on the end. But this would be an option for those without tools perhaps.
 
without tools its a no go test anyway.
no 1 or 1.2 metre bar - no weight - wont work.

the advantage of a torque wrench is that the angle the mass moves through is irrelevant. That is an area for errors - as is the shorter distances travelled.
 
You'll have to explain that to the Japanease and Bulgarians. They've been looking at me video recently. :)

How would the wrench test work? Turn it to X torque and see if it clicks. Depending on this, adjust torque higher or lower to find the change point from click to non click?
 
Hippo said:
You'll have to explain that to the Japanease and Bulgarians. They've been looking at me video recently. :)

How would the wrench test work? Turn it to X torque and see if it clicks. Depending on this, adjust torque higher or lower to find the change point from click to non click?
Click to expand...
#

I think the torque test is done with a "two bar" type torque wrench, not a click type.
 
Last edited:
The Mad Hat Man said:
#

I think the torque test is done with a "two bar" type torque wrench, not a click type.
Click to expand...

The two bar of beam type torque wrench is crucial for this test. I made a bar that fits into the yoke of my VCU. The VCU is new on not yet fitted, I also have my old VCU on my work bench. I wanted the bar to be strong enough to carry 5/8 KG, so I used a piece of solid wood. I didn't weigh it yet but my guess is that this bar is around 2 KG.

The problem became obvious when I mounted the new VCU on a plate and secured the input yoke. I then inserted the bar on the output yoke and with only the weight of the bar the VCU started to move!

I then tried my old VCU in the same set up, this moved with some help by pulling slightly on the bar.

Point is that the weight of the bar will be of great influence. Unless everyone uses the same type and weight for the bar this test is useless.

I do have torque wrenches but not a beam type. Does anyone have an idea which type to buy and what range?
 
a good idea to prolong the life of the ird, vicous coupling and rear diff id to remove the propshaft in the summer, i have been doing this for 2 years now and my VC is still like new. i had a seized one which DID F*** up the IRD. if it is seized it is like running a defender with diff lock on permanently. whoever told that guy that it is ok is clearly not very well informed and should not realy be giving advice like that!!
 
Hi Folks, I'm the new owner of a 2005 Freelander Td4 HSE.

Its done 76000 miles so I thought it best to do the test to see if I get comparable results.

Using a 1m bar with a 5kg weight it took 100 seconds to go through 90 degrees. This is roughly the same as Madmax's at 95 second, who has a slightly different configuration, so I'm assuming my VCU is the original one.

In your opinions at what point should I consider replacing it as I see that B Bassett is at 100000 miles on his original VCU.
 
peeps seem to reckon about 72K, but if it seems OK, keep an eye on it, regular checks and change at the first sign of the results changing.
 
Thanks TMHM, out of curiosity how many times do the front wheels have to spin before the back wheels engage, is it almost instant or does it take alot of spinning to warm up the viscous fluid.
 
I can't rember exactly, but it's in the spec somewhere. I think it's something like 0.2 radians or 15 milliseconds or summat rediculous.
 
I was on 165000 before I had trouble with the bearings not the actual vcu so i thought I will change the lot as I thought again that the vcu is past its sell by date WRONG
I changed it and have had nothing but trouble since I am now on the second one from freelander spares the first one gave up and I only got front wheel drive second one seems very tight and being a auto it seems to want to change gear more often going uphill
 
yep. carefully drilled 2x 7mm pilot holes about 8mm deep to break through side faces, 10mm in from edge of outer casing of vcu at opposite ends and sides of it, tapped holes m8, drilled 3mm pilot hole through an old m8x16 bolt, cut head off bolt to act as a pipe connection, heated viscous coupling with hair dryer for about 15 minutes, connected line to m8 bolt screwed into vcu and onto compressor. blew treacle out of coupling, then flushed with thin oil.
force filled with gear oil. fitted m8 short bolt with dowty washer to seal.
 
gordybiker said:
yep. carefully drilled 2x 7mm pilot holes about 8mm deep to break through side faces, 10mm in from edge of outer casing of vcu at opposite ends and sides of it, tapped holes m8, drilled 3mm pilot hole through an old m8x16 bolt, cut head off bolt to act as a pipe connection, heated viscous coupling with hair dryer for about 15 minutes, connected line to m8 bolt screwed into vcu and onto compressor. blew treacle out of coupling, then flushed with thin oil.
force filled with gear oil. fitted m8 short bolt with dowty washer to seal.
Click to expand...
why ,
 
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