They are referring to the video above (post #896) - that is not the OWUT.

You are not the first person confused by that.

Other than hooning the car in circles, the other way Bells test a VCU is on a workbench using a lever with a known weight and timing the fall. Although this is undoubtedly more accurate than the OWUT (as it takes our the variables of diff & wheel bearing drag) - the difference in accuracy is only very small and within the limits of testing. The reason most LZ members suggest doing the OWUT as opposed to Bells workbench test is that you do not have remove the VCU from the car - ie its a lot simpler.

From Bells...

 
Alibro said:
It's really simple. You want to know if your VCU is overly tight. If you took it off the car and put it in a vice you could test it with a long pole. This is what Bells do but most people can't or can't be bothered so to do the same test at home just Jack up one wheel and try it. Because of the gearing in the diff this isn't quite as good as doing on the bench but is the only alternative. The owut is just a repeatable way of doing this the same way others have so you can compare numbers.
Click to expand...

I agree and that's why I'm sat here at 06:00 in the morning waiting for daylight to do the test :)
 
GrumpyGel said:
They are referring to the video above (post #896) - that is not the OWUT.

You are not the first person confused by that.

Other than hooning the car in circles, the other way Bells test a VCU is on a workbench using a lever with a known weight and timing the fall. Although this is undoubtedly more accurate than the OWUT (as it takes our the variables of diff & wheel bearing drag) - the difference in accuracy is only very small and within the limits of testing. The reason most LZ members suggest doing the OWUT as opposed to Bells workbench test is that you do not have remove the VCU from the car - ie its a lot simpler.

From Bells...

Click to expand...


That makes a lot of sense thank you very much.
I'm going to do both (keeps me out of trouble) just wish it'd stop bloomin raining
 
With a 2 foot breaker bar the wheel should turn fairly easily. You won't have to stand on anything, I think Bells were exaggerating a little there. I can turn mine with a normal 1/2" ratchet just by leaning on it. On my first Freelander I couldn't budge it at all with a ratchet but never tried the owut. 5kg on a 1.2m bar gives a lot of torque. Not sure what that equals on a 12" long ratchet but probably around 20kg.
 
Giantdog said:
That makes a lot of sense thank you very much.
I'm going to do both (keeps me out of trouble) just wish it'd stop bloomin raining
Click to expand...
lol - a lot of people gave me advice and their thoughts when I joined LZ (cos my IRD broke).

I spent many a day of my misspent youth in Derby.... in the rain :)

Nudged 30 degrees here today :cool: - and the ground didn't shake - bonus :D
 
If you watch the VCU while the bar is dropping you'll see the rear of it turning while the front is locked to the front wheels so it can't.
 
Hi folks,

Sold the freelander !
Got vcu and damper for sale on Preloved (good 'bought' units, not modified)
The one I 'softened' worked great......................
 
Just did the OWUT on my 83k mile 2001 Hippo. Did it three times: consistently 45 seconds.

My understanding is that we say the "normal" is between 30-60 seconds?
 
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beastsilver said:
Has anybody tried replacing the oil in the viscous coupling ie drill a hole in it tap a thread drain the oil and replace. This seem sensible as the feedback i get is that the oil needs changing.
Click to expand...

The viscous coupling is a sealed unit and contains several fibrous 'plates' in a silicone based fluid. If it's on it's way out the best policy is to replace it immediately. The VCU will destroy the rear diff, the IRD and potentially the gearbox. There is a thread on here by someone who drained the fluid( took three months ) and serviced the VCU (can't remember how) rebuilt and then refilled with fluid he found on eBay.....

The VCU is the achilles heel of the system and as it 'connects' the front and rear of the vehicle can do serious damage at both ends. Also your statement about being in 4 wheel drive permanently is incorrect.. The FL1 IS permanent 4WD anyway so irrelevant. The newer FL 2 uses a Haldex unit (IIRC) that only engages when needed(again IIRC)....Haldex is also used on older Audi TT's and some VW '4WD' systems. If an owner wants to they can disconnect the drive shaft completely and fit a blanking plate on the IRD. This makes the FL 1 front wheel drive only. This can be employed in the short or long term although claims of huge saving on fuel costs etc are not really well founded (from comments on here, I have never done this) This 'conversion' can be reversed if needed when a new VCU is located. Any conversion from standard would require the vehicles insurers to be informed.

Maybe if we had a 'database' of figures regarding the 'one wheel up test' it may have some value? However for this to be relevant it would have to be done in a more scientific way with everyone submitting their information after using EXACTLY the same technique and method of measurement. ....but I think the most experienced owners and Freelander Freaks on here have already come up with a 'usable' if not completely objective solution to this issue.

Hope this helps.
 
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The one wheel up test is well documented - well crafted - repeatable - reliable - and informative - although unfortunately buried in flames from idiots and rubbish from blowhards - but that is the nature of public forums. It would be nice if relative newcomers did a little more research, thread reading, and sorting out of the knowledgeable stuff from the rest before posting derogatory comments.
 
Agree with the above. Yes there are flaws and confounders but it's quick and easy. At the very least a long time = concern and the need for a thorough investigation of the drive train. :)

I wonder if it's worth another attempt to compile everyone's OWUT data?
 
All true and correct.....If we were all scientists and into electrickery diagnostictrickery no one would trust anything that was published on here...

As there is no definitive answer to the specs its up to the enthusiast to come to some sort of consensus...LR and those that refurbish VCU's(and this goes for other components too) would never give away the secret of the 'elixir' that they covet.

I am perfectly happy with the procedures mentioned in this forum.

But if we wanted to be scientific.....Then that requires scientific standards.....

I hated chemistry and physics at school.....tried my best at biology but go kicked out becuase I was obsessed by one small section in human reproduction......it's still a bit small......

Forums don't need science they need practical solutions.....A data base of VCU specs may have been of benefit but the starting point would be the forums and chat rooms as to 'when something' is dead or about to die...The layman/enthusiast requires that info first........
 
100% agree.

Many others have measured OWUT - and it would be good to get a feel for the spectrum of times that we feel is acceptable, what warrants attention in the near future, and what means "DONT DRIVE THE VEHICLE" :)
 
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