new vcu is fitted on prop ready for the FL to be in on monday - so will get a torque reading of it then
 
Video below of my Freelander whilst checking the VCU. I already know my VCU works ok, but wanted to keep a reference of how fast the wheel turns, to compare in the future to see if the amount of slip (wheel speed) changes, whilst under the same spec of test. VCU has done 26k miles.




My local main dealer is known to take off VCU’s and bench test them if suspect. Don’t know what they do to test them, but it’s something I’ve spoken to them about when generally talking Freelander faults. Several others I’ve met who had early Freelanders reported this being the case when returning Freelanders under warranty to main dealers. Every time a Freelander goes in for work, they check the VCU is not permanently seized whilst still fitted to the Freelander, as a standard, at my local dealer. Next time I visit for parts I’ll see what info I can get out of them.

I see a few on here think this thread is pointless. I disagree. If we all pull together our knowledge and experiences, then we’ll eventually get a rule of thumb on VCU’s. The more results the betterer.
 
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Hippo. I'm all for being able to check a VCU, I simply don't see how it's possible to check the level of 'deterioration': unless it's on the same car, with the same conditions, and with the same tools, and with the first test being on the car when it is brand new so there is a reference point.

Don’t know what they do to test them

That's the £64k question - why don't you find out what they do? :) Then we can all learn from it....
 
This is all speculation. No-one can judge the efficacy of any test, or prospective test, unless peeps try those tests that give a specific answer (such as a torque value) and publish that info so that a distribution analysis can take place. I dont know if this test is good, but it might be. Try it and publish yiur results. The more results we have, the easier it will be to make a value judgement.
 
Well it gets my vote. ;) Nice work Hippo. A test that most should be able to copy with a reasonable degree of accuracy. You've taken account of the one thing that previous test results have left out, namely the all important time factor. Hopefully if people are prepared to use this method and post their times we should get a more meaningful comparison. Just one thing, you need to note the starting point at the front of the door handle and the horizontal finish.
 
the test is a good way to check the condition of your own vcu.
no predictions can be made to establish the lifespan of a vcu because there are too many variables like driving styles, tyres, differing tolerances of new vcus etc.
 
Your right howard but comparing results from this test would help one to make a more informed decision, we expect a clear trend of vcu tightening along with age or mileage. If it turns out that at 100k they're twice as tight/slow as at 26k then who would confidently say that it's nothing to worry about, not me?
At the moment how long someone uses a vcu is down to how lucky you feel.
 
Video below of my Freelander whilst checking the VCU. I already know my VCU works ok, but wanted to keep a reference of how fast the wheel turns, to compare in the future to see if the amount of slip (wheel speed) changes, whilst under the same spec of test. VCU has done 26k miles.

YouTube - Freelander 1 2001 v6 Viscous Coupling Unit VCU Torque Test


My local main dealer is known to take off VCU’s and bench test them if suspect. Don’t know what they do to test them, but it’s something I’ve spoken to them about when generally talking Freelander faults. Several others I’ve met who had early Freelanders reported this being the case when returning Freelanders under warranty to main dealers. Every time a Freelander goes in for work, they check the VCU is not permanently seized whilst still fitted to the Freelander, as a standard, at my local dealer. Next time I visit for parts I’ll see what info I can get out of them.

I see a few on here think this thread is pointless. I disagree. If we all pull together our knowledge and experiences, then we’ll eventually get a rule of thumb on VCU’s. The more results the betterer.

This is an excellent test!!! Basically replicates the bench test we do (and which i posted a video of)
 
You should be able to turn a good VCU by hand. Jack the front up, remove the joint between prop and transfere box. Grip the shaft and turn slowly. You should be able to turn it ever so slightly. If you start putting bars and things on wheel nuts to turn then you are increasing the sheer effect in the VCu thus making it harder to turn. Turn it slowly and it should move freeley.


This is complete rubbish, a brand new LR VCU cannot be turned by hand. There is a company selling ones that can be turned by hand, but these have the oncorrect fluid, tend to leak and produce zero drive on the car, have got 6 of them under my bench bought in by people complaining of no drive.
 
This is complete rubbish, a brand new LR VCU cannot be turned by hand. There is a company selling ones that can be turned by hand, but these have the oncorrect fluid, tend to leak and produce zero drive on the car, have got 6 of them under my bench bought in by people complaining of no drive.

I hope yu aint casting Nasturtiums at our noo found egg-spurt of 20 years eggs-peariance?:rolleyes:
 
my freelander's vcu has a grease nipple on the outside so who says you cannot refill them with the proper grease
 
Hi,
My query isn't directly related to this thread, but looking at the knowledge on the forum I hope someone might be able to help me.

My VCU went a few years ago on my 99 reg Freelander which trashed the IRD too. I opted for a second hand IRD & VCU, which was a mistake as the VCU started to go again as noticed during a service. I opted to take the Driveshaft and VCU off and run in 2 wheel drive to save the IRD being damaged again. This has been fine for a couple of years, but I've seen the reconditioned VCU's on sale and would like to get the 4 wheel drive back.

My question though, is that the warning lights came on the dash nearly a year back ie. HDC, ABS & TC. When I put the HDC on, sometimes I get the green light and hear it working, other times it doesn't come on. Does this mean that if I fit the VCU and driveshaft, but the TC wheel sensors are not working (if that is what the warning lights means), the 4 wheel drive system will fail to transfer power to the rear wheels and not do the job unless I get the warning lights sorted?

I have been told it could be a fair few quid to get the ABS/TC etc fixed and don't want to waste money on fitting a recon VCU if this is linked to the ABS/TC fault.

That probably makes no sense at all, but if anyone can decipher my query and help, it would be great. Much appreciated.
 
The VCU has no direct link in with those systems - they work by using the ABS system to control wheel spin and to control vehicle speed. But dont go for a reconn VCU - very few peeps can do them properly.
 

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