jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
you can test it with a torque wrench as we used to the borgwarners which is were lrs test came from(borgwarner) ,just get some to try new lr ones at the rear wheel
I feckin give up. The hours that have gone in to helping peeps on this site and we are back 6 years!
uke:
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
I feckin give up. The hours that have gone in to helping peeps on this site and we are back 6 years!
:behindsofa:
Mornin MHM....
This thread seems to be a repeat of the "P38 EAS problem posts"..thousands of them on the Rangie section.
People are looking for an easy fix at a cost lower than a tenner !!
As you say, all the information is there....more than enough, from Hippo and many others.
I can see where the frustration is coming from
:deadhorse::deadhorse::frusty::frusty:
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I agree with you
There are tests available as reconditioners test em!! It's a defined Mr average test that is needed. Your weight test is a good way to tell if the unit fitted is getting stiffer over time by testing regularly but there is'nt enough data from lots of owners tests on there own vehicles to give a baseline "to stiff" figure I find it frustrating that owners complain about the VCU busting IRD's and diffs but then don't bother to test and post the torque / time figures of there new VCU once the vehicle is fixed
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DD3
New Member
I feckin give up. The hours that have gone in to helping peeps on this site and we are back 6 years!
Was determined not to post again, (have to admit to a sneaky read) but could not resist. There is defo something wrong in the heads of peps who buy Freelanders, me included. Madness thru repetition as someone clever once said. Well its the VCU saga, again!!! Come on guys!! Now, what I have found is that if you stop reading, thinking and posting about the old Fleabag, you feel less stressed about it. My fuel usage has gone up over the past week or so, as have been darting about looking for a new motor and letting her rev more than usual - been thrashing her a bit and its been fine - apart from more petrol. Have had two specialist dealers in used BMW's decline her as a PX (very politely), which has annoyed me a bit. The trade just don't want petrol versions. Anyhow, these my thoughts and will keep looking
DD - go for an X-Trail :behindsofa:
DD3
New Member
Ha ha, not for me. Heart set on a 330i tbh. Test drove one the other day - it was a bit scruffy interior but feck did it get up the road!!
BOOMER
Bloke from Dorset
All VCU failures will surely be different due to how the car has been used.
So if VCU failure is suspected surely the known signs such as castellation of tyre tread, the inner rear wheel skipping on a loose surface when on full lock or that sensation of the handbrake being on when reversing on full lock are enough to determine a fault?
DD3
New Member
Exactly.
DD3
New Member
if it was that obvious, there would be fewer smashed IRD's
Well, it kinda is pretty obvious, when you know what the signs are.
Trouble is most owners aren't members of this forum...
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Problem is mines about this tight (_______) and others say theirs is this tight (______________) but comparing the 2 is impossible without a measurement against a datum. Those with an auto won't feel the tightness on full lock like a manual clutch owner would, whilst trying not to stall it. Problem tyres and failing vcu are the big concerns we have. Being able to predict this would give the owner the upper hand.
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Annoying int it. If only we'd come up with a method of testing a vcu, which was just as easy as washing a Freelander, but only took half the time. :doh:I feckin give up. The hours that have gone in to helping peeps on this site and we are back 6 years!
BOOMER
Bloke from Dorset
Annoying int it. If only we'd come up with a method of testing a vcu, which was just as easy as washing a Freelander, but without taking both the doors off :doh:
**edited**
The Pilgrim
Active Member
Gentlemen, I know is a bit late for this thread, but I fixed mine also. Two 8mm threaded holes with ss bolts with copper gaskets. The goo came instant out (like in one video on the web) and the VCU stayed on a bucket a few weeks. After the output was too thin, I put inside silicone thinner (used by auto paint shops for degreasing the plastic elements). It was a slow process, but in the end I could turn the axles slowly by hand, and the thinner came out clean. I put inside 100000cst silicone, from fleabay, 200grams cca 20pounds, from UK. There are info about 160grams needed, but in mine entered cca 120-130 grams. Mounted a greaser, took a new and cleaned greasergun and filled the VCU. Filling took cca 15minutes. (I do not see any other way to fill it and not to lose too much). New bearings and up it went.
After a 120km trip, 4 + bags, VCU was slightly warm. The car was tested on a 3km slope in the mountins on fresh snow and drove as expected, no hesitation regarding grip. Did not do the back wheel test yet, but it feels right.
Total cost cca 30pounds + bearings, and time for research (thank you all for info and guidance) and patience.
So, it is doable with not so many technical skills & tools.
After a 120km trip, 4 + bags, VCU was slightly warm. The car was tested on a 3km slope in the mountins on fresh snow and drove as expected, no hesitation regarding grip. Did not do the back wheel test yet, but it feels right.
Total cost cca 30pounds + bearings, and time for research (thank you all for info and guidance) and patience.
So, it is doable with not so many technical skills & tools.
