Well it might have something to do with it.....;)

Acording to the vdub scientists this fluid is stable up to 300 degrees C........so can take some abuse....but over time it starts to break down and gel up.
 
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Right just done a 8-10 miles on twisty medium speed roads and some roundabouts felt the vcu admits cold does this mean it ok for some miles yet?
 
When i was having problems with my drive train, the original vcu got very hot. Replaced it with a brand new gkn one, now it only gets warm no matter what its been through.
 
thequeenscheese said:
I thought it getting hot was one of the main indicators of it failing?
Click to expand...
I use this as a guide.
Getting very hot would mean it's being over worked. (Tyres incorrect)
Warm would suggest everything is fine.
Staying cold would suggest the VCU has stiffened up.
 
thequeenscheese said:
I thought it getting hot was one of the main indicators of it failing?
Click to expand...
There's a difference between hot, and too hot. Look for turnip test results.

The heat you measure on the outside of the vcu is only an indication of the temp inside the vcu.
 
Hippo said:
There's a difference between hot, and too hot. Look for turnip test results.

The heat you measure on the outside of the vcu is only an indication of the temp inside the vcu.
Click to expand...

So if mines cold that's good thing? (got mydistance a bit out was more like 6 when I checked the trip)
 
thequeenscheese said:
So if mines cold that's good thing? (got mydistance a bit out was more like 6 when I checked the trip)
Click to expand...
No it doesn't sound good. It's means there's at least 1 problem:

1. The rear wheels are not connected to the gearbox via the IRD. Could be a missing part or broken/worn part. This means the vcu is not being put under pressure from differing speeds of the props. Hence why the vcu is cold. Cold means the plates inside are not turning at differing speeds enough. The same cold issue can e down to seizing too.

2. The vcu is failing by starting to seize up more than it should. Hence it's resisting the pressure put on it more than it should and therefore not operating as it should. The plates are not slipping because of this, which is why it's cold. Heat output from the vcu indicates the sheering effect is taking place.



The turnip test (which is what yer doing - difference in temp before and after a drive - cool after not being driven for some time v temp after a short drive) only needs to be done for 3 to 4 miles. That's sufficient to warm up a vcu to see what temp it is. I used this distance daily for years whilst monitoring mine. The temp at that mileage will be the same at many more miles as it's a sufficient distance to get it operating during that distance. You see the reconditioners stating it must be a longer drive but that's just BS. Test results prove this. The mileage you did was ok so don't be worried about that.

You need to investigate further. The one wheel up test will tell you how much resistance there is from your vcu. If it turns too slow then the vcu is seizing too much or the brakes are catching. If the vcu is at fault you should remove it now and advise yer insurance company. This will stop excess strain on yer transmission from a seizing vcu, if it's failing.
 
Maybe he has the perfect setup...only very slight slip due to near perfect tyre/gear ratio combos......

You could also test it on full lock and see how stiff it feels in a turn....mine would drag the rear wheels..and slow down quite a bit....you could hear the subframe groaning. .
 
A good detailed response - i just get ****ed off with peeps that cant be arsed to read the info already available and want yu to perpetually wipe their arses :mad:

If they cant be bothered, why should we?
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
A good detailed response - i just get ****ed off with peeps that cant be arsed to read the info already available and want yu to perpetually wipe their arses :mad:

If they cant be bothered, why should we?
Click to expand...

If peeps just read on a forum it wouldn't be much of a forum would it? or here's a suggestion if uve got an issue then just ignore the post and go whinge somewhere else..
 
Hippo said:
It's possible but very unlikely.
Click to expand...

Tbh it's not tight at all when turning in forward or reverse my next task is to wheel up test (don't worry hat man I'll read up how to I wouldn't dare ask anyone in fear of being ridiculed). It prob gonna get done at the garage tho as I can't think of what I've got that's long enough to attach to the wheel what have you guys used?
 
Don't know where in Greater Manchester you are but i'm around for the next week or so.
Your welcome to compare it to mine if that is of any help
 
thequeenscheese said:
If peeps just read on a forum it wouldn't be much of a forum would it? or here's a suggestion if uve got an issue then just ignore the post and go whinge somewhere else..
Click to expand...

Look you self centred arsehole.
Hippo, NI, myself and many others, have put months of work into helping freelander owners with their problems. If you can't be arsed to help yourself by at least reading the tons of stuff that we have provided on FL recalls, how to fix the common faults and the tons of threads on how VCUs work and how to test them, then you can stick you VCU where the sun don't shine and feck off to LRO where they will hold you hand like the arsewipe you are :mad:
 
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