L

LRNoob42

Member
Hi all,
I recently purchased the Freelander 2004 TD4 model with 103k miles on the clock. Previous owner never changed the VCU so I suspect the original VCU unit to still be attached. The steering feels good but I am concerned about the high mileage on the VCU.
I will be testing the unit this afternoon, and most likely will remove the prop shaft and VCU and just drive it in 2WD mode until i can obtain a replacement.
Are the GKN VCU units reliable? I dont have thousands to spend on the original parts and the GKN parts seems to be okay. Dont really want to go refurb route. Any recommendations on a good brand?
Cheers
 
If it needs replacing, be very careful with recon VCU's - its a very specialist job and there have been no end of cowboys over the years selling rubbish. The most recommended option is Bell Engineering...

https://www.bellengineering.co.uk/freelander-1-products

They are a lot cheaper than a new GKN unit and probably better value for money. I'd imagine 'new' GKN units have been sitting in warehouses for a good number of years - I dunno if they degrade without use, but even so, I should not think they are 'new'.

Get them with the new support bearings prefitted to save some agro.
 
LRNoob42 said:
Hi all,
I recently purchased the Freelander 2004 TD4 model with 103k miles on the clock. Previous owner never changed the VCU so I suspect the original VCU unit to still be attached. The steering feels good but I am concerned about the high mileage on the VCU.
I will be testing the unit this afternoon, and most likely will remove the prop shaft and VCU and just drive it in 2WD mode until i can obtain a replacement.
Are the GKN VCU units reliable? I dont have thousands to spend on the original parts and the GKN parts seems to be okay. Dont really want to go refurb route. Any recommendations on a good brand?
Cheers
Click to expand...
First off, there's nothing to say that high mileage is detrimental to VCU life. My own VCU was still fine with 140k on it.
What is more detrimental is running with odd tyres, which causes partial locking of the VCU, causing it to overheat and stiffen.
Testing using the one wheel up test is the best way to gauge its condition.

As for replacements. Unfortunately only GKN made the VCU, and haven't been made for almost a decade, so even new GKN VCUs are around 10 years old.

There's nothing wrong with using a reconditioned VCU, as long as it's been reconditioned by someone with a proven track record of such work.
Bell Engineering have been reconditioning VCUs for about 20 years, so they are the go to people.
Avoid ebay reconditioned VCUs, as they are unproven.
 
Fantastic, thanks very much for the recommendations. I have contacted Bell for a quote and order.

This is my first Land Rover ... and boy oh boy does it suck you into a whole new universe of car knowledge. In the two days since I have had the car I have become engrossed in all the technical details of these cars. A bit like expecting your first baby and learning the ropes as you go along. No turning back now.
 
LRNoob42 said:
This is my first Land Rover ... and boy oh boy does it suck you into a whole new universe of car knowledge. In the two days since I have had the car I have become engrossed in all the technical details of these cars.
Click to expand...

The FL1 does have a certain charm to it, which the FL2 doesn't have.
 
Quick question, when removing the propshaft - is there anything that i need to blank off or secure? Or can i simply remove the bolts from either end of the shaft and remove the entire unit including the VCU in one setting? dont want anything falling out the IRD or Diff side.
 
LRNoob42 said:
Quick question, when removing the propshaft - is there anything that i need to blank off or secure? Or can i simply remove the bolts from either end of the shaft and remove the entire unit including the VCU in one setting? dont want anything falling out the IRD or Diff side.
Click to expand...
just remove vcu and both shafts
 
First off, unless you're changing the VCU as a precaution, then do the one wheel up test before removing the propshafts.

To remove them, is pretty straightforward, but rather cumbersome, as they need to be removed as a unit.

First off, unbolt the 4 rear diff flange bolts, and 6 front IRD flange bolts.
Next place something under the rear propshaft, so it will rest off the ground.
Put a trolley jack under the VCU, and remove its 4 mounting bolts. I draw around the bearing brackets beforehand, so I can get the bearings in the same position, which is important.
Once the VCU is free from the body, lower it down a few inches. Next move to the front and tap the propshaft CV joint out of the IRD flange, being careful not to damage the rubber gaiter, which is easily damaged.
Once the flange is free, gently place the CV joint on the floor, then lower the VCU all the way, and withdrawn the whole assembly out from below the vehicle.
It shouldn't take more than 30 minutes or so, as long as everything comes apart easily.
 
Nodge68 said:
First off, unless you're changing the VCU as a precaution, then do the one wheel up test before removing the propshafts.

To remove them, is pretty straightforward, but rather cumbersome, as they need to be removed as a unit.

First off, unbolt the 4 rear diff flange bolts, and 6 front IRD flange bolts.
Next place something under the rear propshaft, so it will rest off the ground.
Put a trolley jack under the VCU, and remove its 4 mounting bolts. I draw around the bearing brackets beforehand, so I can get the bearings in the same position, which is important.
Once the VCU is free from the body, lower it down a few inches. Next move to the front and tap the propshaft CV joint out of the IRD flange, being careful not to damage the rubber gaiter, which is easily damaged.
Once the flange is free, gently place the CV joint on the floor, then lower the VCU all the way, and withdrawn the whole assembly out from below the vehicle.
It shouldn't take more than 30 minutes or so, as long as everything comes apart easily.
Click to expand...
It helps greatly to raise the car some to have more room to crawl and swing a socket. You'll also find that some of the bolts on the diff/IRD flanges are easy to access (they're at the bottom) and others not (they're at the top), so it helps to be able to roll the car forward a bit to move the top ones to the bottom. When I can't get access to my pit, cos there's to much shite in the garage, I drive the car up onto blocks to give the space, and then roll the car along the blocks after doing the bottom bolts.

I would say though that if the VCU is is good condition and tyres are matched and pumped to the same pressure, then there is no danger to leaving props on the car. The VCU you can check, matching tyres you'll control - tyre pressures can get out of kilt without you knowing - therefore a TPMS is a good investment.

Over here, if you remove the prop shafts, the car will likely fail is WOF (MOT) as it is a change to the car (which is obvious when the inspector looks under the car) and therefore needs certification. I don't know if you really are n St Helena, but in the UK it appears to be moving the same way as NZ and is more likely to fail the MOT these days.
 
Oh, and you'll also find that some of the heads are torq not hex.

You can probably get them off with hex sockets - but may damage them.
 
Well, the removal went relatively well. Bolts all came off very easily ... prop shaft is now off. Low and behold, the rubber gaiter on the CV was unfortunately damaged in process, tried to be careful but it wasnt meant to be. Hopefully this is a relatively easy fix.
Thanks to all for your advice, now on to the next issue ... RH side lower wishbone control arm replace. Slight rust damage on the bottom.
 
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