Thanks everyone for your replies. Have decided to replace it to be safe. The transmission does get quite tight on full lock, and as there is apparently no conclusive test, it seems to be the sensible thing to do!!
One further question regarding the tippex test:
Presumably this will only show if a vcu is completely seized? ie if marks do not move relative to each other, then it must be locked solid, right? In which case, and correct me if I'm wrong, the vehicle wont move at all ( or at least not for long until before the transmission munches itself to pieces)
Cheers, Russ
 
It will move with the VCU seized, and you won't know any difference until your IRD 'munches itself to pieces'. Somebody started a thread where we posted the torque figures needed to turn the VCU but the figures varied by so much it was a bit inconclusive.
 
Can the VCU be replaced with a geared type system? like a sealed center diff unit?
 
Ok...so new VCU fitted, all seems ok, except it is still quite tight on full lock in reverse. Not as bad as before, but am i just being paranoid? I have a horrible fear that its going to go BANG!! one day...
 
Full lock tightness is normal for a Freelander.

Reason. On full lock, the front wheel on the inside of the curve is going slower than the rear wheels, the front wheel on the outside of the curve is going faster than the rear wheels. The operation of the front diff, which is part of the IRD, under these conditions means the final drive ratio to the front axle drops. But it does not drop to the back axle. Therefore the back axle is trying to over take the front axle. Somethings got to give otherwise the tyres will start bunny hopping (Hence the sign of jagged rear tyre wear) and the IRD is going to start spitting teeth. That something is the VCU.

Where you want to be worried is if this cornering tightness is not noticable because this means your VCU is either siezed so your tyres are having to slip instead, which will kill the IRD and rear diff, or the VCU is unable to drive through at all, which means you are effectively in 2WD only.

Stop worrying and enjoy driving your Hippo.
 
I haven't read all the post bout the first 3,
id shell out on new drive shafts first.;)
I think replacing at least the front pair, would solve so many of our problrms.:cool:
I would like to hear from others who probly feel the same.I might start a thread or someone else,feel free to do so.


dont mind me im just a joiner.
 
I realise that a few months have passed since last post but though this the best place to post instead of a new topic.

It does not seem overly stiff on reversing full lock. Better way of describing it prehaps is that Im just aware that its tighter than my 2wd vehicle so hopefully that interprets to being ok.

Is there any on going general/preventative maintenance that can be done to prolong the life of the VCU. My car has 105k on the clock and all seems ok at present but I don't know if it has ever been replaced?

Cheers.

Paul
 
Just a little update......................


My hippo is tight on reverse on forward full lock and reverse fulllock.......

I recentently got stuck in the sand on a beach...........up to the belly of the hippo.......... I was digging myself in..

In 1st at 1000rpm only the front wheels were turning.............when I up-ed the rpm to 2000rpm the rears kicked in...........So for a what I rhought was a tight VCU was pretty slack in 4X4 mode when I need it........... If I had the rears going at 1000rpm I would not be stuck..........I thinks any way.

So the next time you get stuck in the sand with the tide coming in, this is a good time to test your VCU
 
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