ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
You don't think it's the front then trax?pads always have a bit of play; hence the springs to try and keep em in place
Kwakerman
Well-Known Member
I would be surprised if it did and you couldn't find something loose. At speed when you turn you transfer a lot of weight to the outside wheels and that is where duff bearings will show up most. Does it do it irrespective of left / right turns and speed?
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
I must admit it seems to happen at slower speeds. I can't turn it sharp enough at a higher speed for it to occur. So only notice it at 10mph or less. I'm just wondering if half a mm on 2 calipers is enough for a difference?!
not at all imo. sorry to keep saying it, but as we run out of ideas... cough, you need to isolate the calipers and rears cough rubber.. cough cough. you can always go back to braided when you figure out what the issue is.
is the rear flexi braided or is it still rubber. one down the A ?
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
I'll check the rears first. And then I think I might have to try some cheap rubber flexis mate and see what the score is.
Thankyou for your time everyone!
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
Hi all. Happy New Year
Since posting about this fault, I've actually found I had a faulty brake servo, which was a new part. This was making the brake pedal even more variable, and general brakes poor. New servo fitted, and the brakes are very good! In fact I was surprised how good defender brakes are.
Unfortunately, still no luck with the pedal travel doubling when turning or off road. Even after changing a 3rd stub axle and bearings, still no joy. It certainly isn't the fourth hub for sure. Even tightened the front bearings tight, and it still occurred!
Anyway, is inferior brake discs out the question? They were from eBay in a TRW box. I would have thought it would show up with any form of braking in that case.
Or
Could the caliper halves be separating when turning? I split the calipers, and fitted vented kits, could that caused any issues without a leak?
Other than the above, as previously stated. Are the braided hoses the only thing causing an issue that's left?
Cheers
Since posting about this fault, I've actually found I had a faulty brake servo, which was a new part. This was making the brake pedal even more variable, and general brakes poor. New servo fitted, and the brakes are very good! In fact I was surprised how good defender brakes are.
Unfortunately, still no luck with the pedal travel doubling when turning or off road. Even after changing a 3rd stub axle and bearings, still no joy. It certainly isn't the fourth hub for sure. Even tightened the front bearings tight, and it still occurred!
Anyway, is inferior brake discs out the question? They were from eBay in a TRW box. I would have thought it would show up with any form of braking in that case.
Or
Could the caliper halves be separating when turning? I split the calipers, and fitted vented kits, could that caused any issues without a leak?
Other than the above, as previously stated. Are the braided hoses the only thing causing an issue that's left?
Cheers
If you haven't got any fluid leaks I don't thing there's anything wrong with the calipers, and you've checked the discs for warping, so don't see them being the problem either.
Check that the vacuum hose isn't touching the steering column. On that note, I can't remember if you've inspected or changed the hose? Weird question - you haven't got long flexi brake pipes cable-tied to a power steering hose?
If that isn't it, then all I can think is that you need to (finally!) change the flexi hoses, and then strip all the hubs with somebody (and don't take this the wrong way - we've all done it) watching for mistakes.
Check that the vacuum hose isn't touching the steering column. On that note, I can't remember if you've inspected or changed the hose? Weird question - you haven't got long flexi brake pipes cable-tied to a power steering hose?
If that isn't it, then all I can think is that you need to (finally!) change the flexi hoses, and then strip all the hubs with somebody (and don't take this the wrong way - we've all done it) watching for mistakes.
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
Thanks for the reply. The vacuum hose isn't touching the steering column I've checked that, the pipe is fine too. Servo now holding vacuum at least overnight and into the next day.
I've followed the rave manual for bearing and stub replacement, as well as using YouTube videos from land rover toolbox.
Could over packing the bearings with grease cause a problem? I pretty much pack the bearings and hub as full as possible, although there is room between the bearings and to put the nuts on the stub.
Grease? In theory it could cause a problem, but grease is incompressible and I'd expect it to blow the seals out as you tighten the nuts.
Since you mention it though, can you describe how you tightened things - I recall you saying earlier that you'd use quite a lot of torque?
Since you mention it though, can you describe how you tightened things - I recall you saying earlier that you'd use quite a lot of torque?
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
I also thought it would blow the seals. I wouldn't personally say it's too much to not escape into an area of the hub away from the bearing. Just plenty of lubrication!
When I fitted the new bearings, I tightened the adjusting nut to 50nm to seat the bearings and spun the disc. Slackened off 90 degrees and retightened to 10nm if I remember correctly.
About 1k miles later when the grease would have settled, I tightened them further due to still having the problem. Which didn't improve anything! I've re adjusted them as per the workshop manual since to not accelerate wear of the bearings.
When off road it's actually worse than turning. The pedal travel is even further. Thank you for your time and advise
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
I made sure the outer lip on the hub seal was flush with the outer edge on the hub....
When you say press the seals in by 5mm, does that mean the main shoulder of the seal, or the actual lip?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
it wouldnt alter pedal travel, the lip shoulds slightly protrude as to keep dirt out too much it just wears away too little it doesnt work
This is a bit odd. This is the page from a workshop manual, which seems to back up my belief that the seal should be pressed in below flush.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/1h0pwM1FiMRYiP_HaRfUp-2IQgKcbAUxEDiHzk79V24?feat=directlink
But the hubs that I've got on my bench have them flush. My thinking was that the seal could be pushing the hub outwards, which would push the outer pistons back in. Tenuous really because I'd expect that your torquing the nut should have moved the seal if that was the problem.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/1h0pwM1FiMRYiP_HaRfUp-2IQgKcbAUxEDiHzk79V24?feat=directlink
But the hubs that I've got on my bench have them flush. My thinking was that the seal could be pushing the hub outwards, which would push the outer pistons back in. Tenuous really because I'd expect that your torquing the nut should have moved the seal if that was the problem.
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
So does that mean the furthest lip should be 5mm below? Or the actual shoulder?
I notice it also says a maximum amount of grease. So it must have some impact on the bearings .
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
Suspension bushes do you mean? I'm not sure how to check the brake pedal mount, odd that in only occurs while turning though.
And I've fitted two servos; both TRW. One of which was faulty.
Thank you all
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
if you fit the bearing race like that it wont do the bearing any good
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
My rave workshop manual says to fit the seal flush with the outer edge of the hub. It's amazing how the different manuals say different things.
I just fit the outer lip to the edge of the hub. Which in turn, the mean body of the seal (the strong part which is used to knock the seal in) is about 5mm deep in the hub. Is this correct?
